John Doev1

Also look into canfeild heads

chazmcgee

at this point i have my eyes on the trickflow kit for 2500 it says has everything but lifters, imma look at the set up that was in the mag kweb said but trick flow says 350-360 hp so i hope it would be 300 at wheels and i geuss 30# injectors with a new maf cal for it, would i need to get a better fuel pump?

Portmaster

They rate the HP at the flywheel. There are to many vaiables to try to guss at the wheels. 24lb injectors are plenty for that kit. If your fuel pump is in good shape it will carry the extra power. It never hurts to make sure and put a good fuel pump in it. I saw a Summit brand pump the other day a buddy of mine bought. It was a 255lph (I'm pretty sure it was 255) and he pulled it out of the box and it was a Walbro. It was cheap

chazmcgee

So is that kit worth its weight? Or should i get a diff cam and intake?

Portmaster

You could peice together a kit that made a bit more power for the same amount of money. I use to sell and install these kit's in my shop. The biggest reason being the speed of the install. I had a guy that worked for me that could start one of these kits when he walked in the door and drive it to lunch. He was just that fast and just that good. Thee is no guess work as to wheather the pushrods were the right length (always checked anyway) or if this was going to be compatible with that. It was a no question kit. It performs good and the biggest thing was that most of the people who bought these kits would drop their car off at my shop before I got there and leave the keys in the drop box and pick the car up on their way home. It eleminated things like "will these valve covers clear the roller rockers and still fit under the intake" and a hundred other things that could delay that person getting their car back. The people needed thier car to get back and forth to work and we catered to that need. They always made good power and never had a complaint about the power. If they wanted more power than this kit had to offer we certainly did that also. If someone showed up at 8pm with his car he could get it back by 5pm.

It's a great kit for people who have trouble figuring out what parts should go with what. We kept one of these kits in stock all the time. It's high quality, it works and no parts hunting required. We delt a lot in custom builds but this was great for the guy who had a handful of cash and wanted it "right now" and right at the same time. We also sold the Track heat kit but didn't keep it in stock. I felt like the trade of of low end torque wasn't worth the extra few hp.

Is it worth it's weight? My personal opinion is absolutly.

Should you change cam and intake? If you do that the kit isn't worth the money because you would be spending money on parts you don't use.

The best thing to do is first figure out how much you are willing or able to spend then come up with a plan of your goals are for the car (within reason of the budget you can spend) and go from there. If you are looking to build a 10 second street fighter for 3000 dollars it won't happen. Be realistic, buy quality parts and build for durability. You will be a lot happier with a 12 second car you can drive everyday that a 10 second car that only last 2 passes. You don't have to buy the most expensive parts on the market to build a durable and quick street car. You just have to stay away from Junk.

JK59GT2000

it also depends on how you match your parts also. hitting 300whp N/A is pretty tough but not impossible if your really looking for cheap. i would just use that 2.5k and by an used s/c and call it a day. or you can go nitrous also but i wouldn't get crazy on the nitrous idea unless you tune it and have all the supporting mods.

chazmcgee

damn portmaster, that pretty much made my mind up, lol. I've decided to by that mid june to early july. Imma put the stock engine in the car and learn it first. When im ready to upgrade i will. I might buy a aftermarket block though because id like to put a blower on it in the long run and get 400-450 out of it but i hear the stock block is only rated at 400hp.

cch

Just figured this might be beneficial to you... https://mustangforums.com/forum/5-0l...p-to-pics.html . I pieced together my own H/C/I swap and personally I feel 300 rwhp is close by; and it only cost 1650$ US. Cheers!

Portmaster

I know of a good many 500+ hp stock block cars (mine being one of them) but when it comes to those power levels it all about the machine work done to the block or how well it's done. Big Nitrous loads(200+) where the engine can produce 750+ lbsft of torque all at once and high boost pressure will kill a stock block. A well machined block that has been squared, a good ightweight well balanced rotating assembley should be able to handle in excess of 500hp naturally aspirated. If 450 hp was my goal I wouldn't bother with an aftermaket block or give it a second thought. You sure don't need boost or Nitrous to get there either.

In most cases where blocks split it because it either was hit with a big shot of nitrous where people only think of the hp of the kit and don't realize the massive torque in makes when you hit the button or it's hit with an overwhelming amout of boost which again makes massive torque and the cyl pressure rips the block in half.

cougarfan088

portmaster, you running cast or forged crank?