just bought a 94 gt
#1
just bought a 94 gt
just bought a 94 gt thursday and drive it for 3 days and i just found out the head gasket is blown
its a bitch to fix that, have to take apart the whole top end :/
hopefully thats what the problem is
its a bitch to fix that, have to take apart the whole top end :/
hopefully thats what the problem is
#4
Not that big a deal on a 5.0. Shouldn't take much more than 8 hours for a novice. I can change a HG on a 5.0 in two lazy days. If it was a Northstar cadillac, then you would have a problem lol. It's an easy job on that motor.
#6
It's not a pain at all, just time consuming. Here's what you'll need to do the work:
*Full socket and wrench set, most commong sizes are 10mm and 1/2 sockets, but there are a few other odd ball bolts that you'll need the whole set.
*Torx Bolt Socket for the tension pulley (can't remember it's size though)
*Fuel Hose Clamp Removers (autozone sells them in a 4 pack, you'll use 2 of the 4, one is larger than the other)
*Pulley Puller (to remove the power steering pump pulley)
* New head gaskets
* New lower intake to head gaskets
* Thread sealer (used on the bolts that enter the water jacket in the heads, not lock tight)
* Thread lubricant (use on all other bolts except for header bolts and upper intake bolts to ensure proper torque settings)
* New head bolts (do not reuse your stock bolts)
Thats about all I can think of, might of missed one small thing though. It's pretty straight forward, drain the radiator fluid, while that's draining remove the strut tower bar, then air intake, remove the accessories belt, and upper intake. Then by this point, the fluid should be done draining, remove the over flow tank. Now use those fuel line clamp removers and remove the two fuel lines entering the fuel rails and label their location. Remove the fuel rails, there are 4 bolts that hold them in place, then just pull up on the rails, they will require a little muscle to break the seals. Be careful when remove the fuel injectors from the lower intake as not to have the heads fall off, they can be pressed back on, but be very very careful if you're reusing your stock injectors. Then remove the lower intake in the reverse order in which it was installed, be sure to untorque it in 1/4 turns until all the bolts are loose, it is possible to warp the lower intake if installed or uninstalled without evenly distributing the toque pressure. Jack the car up, remove the 4 bolts from the h pipe to the exhaust manifolds, then go back up top and remove the valve covers and then the headers. Remove the valve train and push rods next. Remove the power steering pump, then the bolts that hold the pump and A/C to the heads (should be 3). Then on the passenger side remove the alternator and the tension pulley, and the bracket that holds the smog pump to that head. Then unbolt the heads in reverse order that they're installed backing them up 1/8 of a turn until they're semi free (this is very important if reusing the heads as not to warp them beyond resurfacing). Then clean up the heads at a shop, have them resurfaced. Clean your engine block with acetone and a scraper, all the old head gasket material must be gone. You will also only use gaskets, no gasket maker stuff with the gasket. Then do the same in reverse.
*Full socket and wrench set, most commong sizes are 10mm and 1/2 sockets, but there are a few other odd ball bolts that you'll need the whole set.
*Torx Bolt Socket for the tension pulley (can't remember it's size though)
*Fuel Hose Clamp Removers (autozone sells them in a 4 pack, you'll use 2 of the 4, one is larger than the other)
*Pulley Puller (to remove the power steering pump pulley)
* New head gaskets
* New lower intake to head gaskets
* Thread sealer (used on the bolts that enter the water jacket in the heads, not lock tight)
* Thread lubricant (use on all other bolts except for header bolts and upper intake bolts to ensure proper torque settings)
* New head bolts (do not reuse your stock bolts)
Thats about all I can think of, might of missed one small thing though. It's pretty straight forward, drain the radiator fluid, while that's draining remove the strut tower bar, then air intake, remove the accessories belt, and upper intake. Then by this point, the fluid should be done draining, remove the over flow tank. Now use those fuel line clamp removers and remove the two fuel lines entering the fuel rails and label their location. Remove the fuel rails, there are 4 bolts that hold them in place, then just pull up on the rails, they will require a little muscle to break the seals. Be careful when remove the fuel injectors from the lower intake as not to have the heads fall off, they can be pressed back on, but be very very careful if you're reusing your stock injectors. Then remove the lower intake in the reverse order in which it was installed, be sure to untorque it in 1/4 turns until all the bolts are loose, it is possible to warp the lower intake if installed or uninstalled without evenly distributing the toque pressure. Jack the car up, remove the 4 bolts from the h pipe to the exhaust manifolds, then go back up top and remove the valve covers and then the headers. Remove the valve train and push rods next. Remove the power steering pump, then the bolts that hold the pump and A/C to the heads (should be 3). Then on the passenger side remove the alternator and the tension pulley, and the bracket that holds the smog pump to that head. Then unbolt the heads in reverse order that they're installed backing them up 1/8 of a turn until they're semi free (this is very important if reusing the heads as not to warp them beyond resurfacing). Then clean up the heads at a shop, have them resurfaced. Clean your engine block with acetone and a scraper, all the old head gasket material must be gone. You will also only use gaskets, no gasket maker stuff with the gasket. Then do the same in reverse.
#10
I had an elderado etc years ago. Do you know how long it took me to find starter?