stall problem
06-22-2009, 06:48 PM
#1
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: s.c
Posts: 110
stall problem
I have a 94 gt and I was going for a long drive yesterday and when I started out it ran fine and ten mins later it stalled out like just quit wile going down the road and I had to pull over and stop and tried to start it a couple times with no luck and then it fired and I went back to the trip and drove for two hours with no problems so Im stumped ....It has done it before starting right after it shut off and some times when I start it after it sits for hours it will just turn over and not start like no spark then I turn the key again and it starts ,so please help me Im stumped ....New plugs wires ,cap rotor fuel filter o2 sensors
06-22-2009, 10:19 PM
#3
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: CA
Posts: 8
Ditto, mine also is a '94 5.0. I am willing to bet it is not a spark problem, but a fuel problem. I have been fighting the same issue for quite a while. When I bought the car the fuel pump was hooked up to the taillights. When I hooked it back up correctly it stalled while doing 65 down the freeway. After that I hooked up a relay and toggle til I figured out the prob.
So since hooking up the toggle, there has been no stalling (on the freeway anyways, a little problem with cold startups).
If I hook it up correctly while it is cold (open loop, PCM controlled), it starts fine til warm, stop at the store, start it back up, will only crank but no start, plug the alternate relay/toggle connector(unplug the correct one) starts right up, no stall nothing.
Now the only way that this helps your situation is ?????? I guess that you are not alone with regards to the problem of stalling. Most of the posts that I have read (100's) will blame the stall problem on the stator in the dizzy, but with my situation, I don't see running an alternate power supply to the pump as being a fix to a bad stator.
When it has a no start situation, pop the hood, push on the Shrader valve on top of the fuel rail (it looks like a air valve on your tire, actually it is the same), if you get a good spray of fuel then you do have fuel pressure, check the spark. I have read that the distributor mounted ignition modules have problems when they get hot. Mine is mounted on the firewall under the air intake, yours may be also.
I hope you do not have the same problem as I do. It has been a *&$$*# to figure. I am no Mr. Goodwrench, but I can handle the basics unfortunately, this is no longer a basic prob. For anybody reading that wants to enlighten me as to what is wrong, let me explain the other annoying electrical issues that pertain to my prob.
Fan will come on during the test prior to getting the codes, fuel pump also comes on during this test. This is the only time the fan comes on (so the fix for this ??, why run it thru the fog light relay and switch of course!) Clock randomly resets, possible coincides with the stall situation. Stereo will not save preset stations (well it will but resets, probably coinciding with stall and clock issues)
I know, what a mess. It was only $2000 and it has been rebuilt and runs sweet when the planets all line up. Fuel pump was replaced before I bought it, as was the ECT for the fan issue. Bought a CCRM off of EBay, but this did not solve anything
Codes - 542 fuel circuit open between PCM and motor
118 open in ECT or IAT circuit
327 EGR valve
So at this point I am in search of the elusive bad ground or open circuit that opens when warmed up. I am hoping it is not a faulty PCM. Sorry its so long, it has been building for quite a while. Any help would be appreciated.
And malo012000- hope things work out for you. Post back, let me know what happens with your situation.
So since hooking up the toggle, there has been no stalling (on the freeway anyways, a little problem with cold startups).
If I hook it up correctly while it is cold (open loop, PCM controlled), it starts fine til warm, stop at the store, start it back up, will only crank but no start, plug the alternate relay/toggle connector(unplug the correct one) starts right up, no stall nothing.
Now the only way that this helps your situation is ?????? I guess that you are not alone with regards to the problem of stalling. Most of the posts that I have read (100's) will blame the stall problem on the stator in the dizzy, but with my situation, I don't see running an alternate power supply to the pump as being a fix to a bad stator.
When it has a no start situation, pop the hood, push on the Shrader valve on top of the fuel rail (it looks like a air valve on your tire, actually it is the same), if you get a good spray of fuel then you do have fuel pressure, check the spark. I have read that the distributor mounted ignition modules have problems when they get hot. Mine is mounted on the firewall under the air intake, yours may be also.
I hope you do not have the same problem as I do. It has been a *&$$*# to figure. I am no Mr. Goodwrench, but I can handle the basics unfortunately, this is no longer a basic prob. For anybody reading that wants to enlighten me as to what is wrong, let me explain the other annoying electrical issues that pertain to my prob.
Fan will come on during the test prior to getting the codes, fuel pump also comes on during this test. This is the only time the fan comes on (so the fix for this ??, why run it thru the fog light relay and switch of course!) Clock randomly resets, possible coincides with the stall situation. Stereo will not save preset stations (well it will but resets, probably coinciding with stall and clock issues)
I know, what a mess. It was only $2000 and it has been rebuilt and runs sweet when the planets all line up. Fuel pump was replaced before I bought it, as was the ECT for the fan issue. Bought a CCRM off of EBay, but this did not solve anything
Codes - 542 fuel circuit open between PCM and motor
118 open in ECT or IAT circuit
327 EGR valve
So at this point I am in search of the elusive bad ground or open circuit that opens when warmed up. I am hoping it is not a faulty PCM. Sorry its so long, it has been building for quite a while. Any help would be appreciated.
And malo012000- hope things work out for you. Post back, let me know what happens with your situation.
06-23-2009, 04:54 AM
#4
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: s.c
Posts: 110
re,reply
Thanks for replying and dont worry about being long on your answer when it comes to my car I will read all night ..So my cars problem is tricky also ,I am woundering about the fuel thing your talking about and as far as I know its hooked up the way the factory did it but need to really check it out ...Also I have been woundering about the bad ground issue also, my car was run off the road and into a fence by the owner before me so they replaced the nose and two fenders and some interor parts but they are some what loose and need to be tightend up so I wounder if that could be my ground problem ...I will keep chaseing the problem on my car and will let you know what I find out ...
06-23-2009, 05:16 PM
#5
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: s.c
Posts: 110
Today I went to work and its a 20 min drive and car ran fine this afternoon after work I let it sit 15min running and then left to go home and it drove 5 mins and quit and acted like lost spark so I check to see if it did and there was no spark goin to the dizzy from coil and I put a new coil on it last weekend so that shouldnt be the problem and it has happen before I changed it ,that was the reason I changed it anyway ....After 10 mins it started backup and ran fine going the rest of the way home ,so now Im really stumped ...help please
06-24-2009, 04:52 PM
#6
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: CA
Posts: 8
Mine been wrecked too.
That's funny that you mention that your ride has been wrecked, because mine has also. Maybe that has something to do with the possible ground short.
Airbags have been deployed (drivers side replaced), but the front wrap is all fixed, plus when they painted it they added a little blue metal flake to the black. You can't really see it very well unless the light hits it just right.
I tried to put a picture of it up but got this link instead. Put up a pic of yours if you got time.
http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/4...ng1done8in.jpg
I thought I followed the directions on embedding a picture in a post but apparently I did something wrong.
Airbags have been deployed (drivers side replaced), but the front wrap is all fixed, plus when they painted it they added a little blue metal flake to the black. You can't really see it very well unless the light hits it just right.
I tried to put a picture of it up but got this link instead. Put up a pic of yours if you got time.
http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/4...ng1done8in.jpg
I thought I followed the directions on embedding a picture in a post but apparently I did something wrong.
06-24-2009, 07:19 PM
#7
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,788
You have either two problems. You either have a bad TFI module located in the passenger fender-well. You can take this out and go to Autozone where they can test it for free. If this does not fix it, then it's your stator(Hall Effects sensor) inside the dizzy. It can be fixed but I have heard it's a pain to fix. When mine went bad I just bought a new dizzy.
06-25-2009, 06:07 PM
#8
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: s.c
Posts: 110
Thanks for replying and Im not haveing a good week with my car ,went and got a new ignition mod and put it on yesterday and this morning left for work and made it to the store and see steem from under my hood ..Looked in and see my water pump is letting water out of the hole where the seal is like a hose pipe so I put water in it and tried to go to work and made it around the corner and the car shut off again on its own ,Had to wait 15 mins and it restarted and went to work... I did take some sandpaper and cleaned the contact in the dizzy put that was yesterday and it didnt help