5.0l upgrade
#11
The air silencer is behind the air filter plenum. It is attached by, don't quote me, two screws. Its been more than ten years since I pulled mine, so I don't remember. It was not hard taking it out. The heads and intake of a 5.0 Explorer are a direct fit and will give you a noticeable power gain.
#12
this is some very good info! So if i rebuild motor put in a b303 cam, explorer heads and intake, remove the air sliencer, put a air intake on (bbk or what ever) shortie headers, h pipe exhaust ( 2 and half exhaust).
that should show alot of a difference? is there anything else i am missing?
that should show alot of a difference? is there anything else i am missing?
#13
this is some very good info! So if i rebuild motor put in a b303 cam, explorer heads and intake, remove the air sliencer, put a air intake on (bbk or what ever) shortie headers, h pipe exhaust ( 2 and half exhaust).
that should show alot of a difference? is there anything else i am missing?
that should show alot of a difference? is there anything else i am missing?
#14
I say skip the outdated alphabet cams and get a Steeda #18 cam. Has similar specs to the B303, but is dual stage and makes more/better power.
The GT-40 route is a decent route, but for $2500 there is better. I did the GT-40 upper/lower and ported them for better airflow. Then I bought a used/rebuilt set of GT-40 X303 heads, they flow much better than the iron GT-40 heads and are a little better than the GT-40P iron heads. Only down side is also they're upside, they're aluminum and will shed 50lbs off the front of the motor, but at the same rate are more easily prone to warping if the cooling system isn't functioning properly.
You could also do an eddelbrock performer or RPM intake and head set up and still have a little cash to play with, and the car would still be decently street worthy.
)
But in short I'd do and here's what you'd need:
70mm Throttle Body
GT-40 Upper/Lower intake (AKA Cobra tons around, check ebay)
GT-40 X303 heads (look on ebay for a deal, just make sure they're cleaned)
Steeda #18 cam
New timing chain and shim set
New hydrollic rollers
New push rods
Crane 1.7 roller rockers (hard to find now, reusing stock will still be OK)
Head gaskets
Lower intake to head gasket
Upper/lower intake gasket
Timing chain assembly gasket kit
New head bolts (do not reuse stock)
New lower intake bolts GT-40 (do not reuse stock)
New water pump (not needed but a good idea)
New thermostat (not needed but again, a goo idea)
GT-40 upper intake bolt set
Advance the timing to 13*
Tools you'll need:
Complete socket and wrench set, metric and standard
Screw Driver (get an interchangeable head driver)
Torque Wrench
Pulley Puller
Timing Gun
Fuel Line Coupler Removal Tool (don't know it's exact name)
The GT-40 route is a decent route, but for $2500 there is better. I did the GT-40 upper/lower and ported them for better airflow. Then I bought a used/rebuilt set of GT-40 X303 heads, they flow much better than the iron GT-40 heads and are a little better than the GT-40P iron heads. Only down side is also they're upside, they're aluminum and will shed 50lbs off the front of the motor, but at the same rate are more easily prone to warping if the cooling system isn't functioning properly.
You could also do an eddelbrock performer or RPM intake and head set up and still have a little cash to play with, and the car would still be decently street worthy.
)
But in short I'd do and here's what you'd need:
70mm Throttle Body
GT-40 Upper/Lower intake (AKA Cobra tons around, check ebay)
GT-40 X303 heads (look on ebay for a deal, just make sure they're cleaned)
Steeda #18 cam
New timing chain and shim set
New hydrollic rollers
New push rods
Crane 1.7 roller rockers (hard to find now, reusing stock will still be OK)
Head gaskets
Lower intake to head gasket
Upper/lower intake gasket
Timing chain assembly gasket kit
New head bolts (do not reuse stock)
New lower intake bolts GT-40 (do not reuse stock)
New water pump (not needed but a good idea)
New thermostat (not needed but again, a goo idea)
GT-40 upper intake bolt set
Advance the timing to 13*
Tools you'll need:
Complete socket and wrench set, metric and standard
Screw Driver (get an interchangeable head driver)
Torque Wrench
Pulley Puller
Timing Gun
Fuel Line Coupler Removal Tool (don't know it's exact name)
#15
if you have a aftermarket CAI you dont have a air silencer removing it is just a no cost short cut to open up the intake system making it the same as a after market setup except in my opinion the aftermarket ones look 100 times better than the stocker! but dont waste ur money on the bbk 160 dollar setup go get a el cheapo ebay cai. i got mine for 40 bucks shipped and it works great! remember its all just alluminum tubing the only difference is your paying for the bbk name
#16
so removing the air intake silencer is pretty equal to a cai? could you post a pic or possibly point me in hte right direction of where it is so i could take it out...as of right now i am running the stock k&n intake and if it frees up a little hp i would like to take it out. thanks.
#18
so removing the air intake silencer is pretty equal to a cai? could you post a pic or possibly point me in hte right direction of where it is so i could take it out...as of right now i am running the stock k&n intake and if it frees up a little hp i would like to take it out. thanks.
#20