sick95gt

Hey eveyone, I just had a new longblock built by a local engine builder and I thought everything was going to great until I actually had it installed. He dyno's every engine he builds at the shop. When he built it, he said he had to way to dyno it with an EFI intake, so he used a carb to dyno it then put the intake on it. With the carb it dyno'd at 442 hp, which I thought would be nice. Well, when it was actually brought to the shop to swap the engine, there were a whole heap of problems. Just in case you are wondering, the engine builder only builds engines. He does not install them. So, a few problems started happening when the installers called and said the water pump wont fit because of the timing cover. Then needed a new alternator. Then needed an intake spacer because the valve covers were too tall. So, after all said and done, I drove the car home and noticed that it ran like trash. I couldn't bring it right back to the shop because I picked it up Friday right at closing, so they arent open until tomorrow. When I was driving home, my gauges didnt even work. Then when I tried to turn on my lights, they wouldnt. So, when I stopped to get get gas and check it out, the car wouldnt turn on. I had to have it jumped. The dash lights finally turned on, then started flashing bright and dim. It seemed as my alternator wasnt quite doing to job. But the car actually drove. Just horribly. So I limped home and it completely died right before I got to my street. Died to the point where it just shut off and I couldn't even roll start it by kicking it in gear. So, I had it jumped again and drove it home. I made sure connections were good and this morning, it seemed as one of the alternator plugs were loose, so I pushed it in and made sure everything was tight and started her up. The only reason she started was because I charged the battery last night. Well, I tested voltage with a DMM at idle and it was at 14.4. Turned it off and it read 12.5. Turned back on and tested at 3-4k rpm and it still tested at 14.4. Turned on lights and they worked fine and the gauges were in tact. Then I decided to take it for a drive and it ran like trash. It seriously felt like it had 100hp. I didn't immediately get on it, I let it warm up as I cruised around the block. I actually never went WOT, but even at maybe 75% throttle, there was no power. In neutral, she revs up like she wants so fast and smooth, but in gear, she just doesnt perform. I know I have to let it break in, so i didn't go crazy, but general driveability should be better than this. The shop mentioned that they put her at stock timing. I know that the builder bumped it during the dyno pulls, but I still dont think it should run this poorly. I believe at stock timing, he got almost 400hp. Now, I have stock a stock computer, and havent gotten a chip or anything. They said I don't need one and it should calibrate itself and drive fine. Are they just wrong? To give you guys the best analogy of what happens, its like a Honda that gets real loud, but doesn't move. Please let me know what you guys think.
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sn95_331_GT_ yellow

what kind of car is this in? have you checked youre timing? did the shop even know to remove the SPOUT connector?
it sounds like you got an engine built for a fox body. if you have a 95 like your name implies, these engines are completely different externally. we need more info to go on here.

sick95gt

oops, for some reason my signature is missing with the car info. It is a 95. Sorry for my ignorance, but I have no idea what a spout connector is.

TrimDrip

maybe your clutch is done.

did you upgrade injectors to 24s?

sn95_331_GT_ yellow

+1 for more info, we need to know EVERYTHING about your engine, what parts are on it etc.

and tell us exactly what the shop did when they installed the engine.

i know for a fact they had to have (at least better have) changed the timing cover and the water pump. these are 94/95 specific. also the front accessories blot on differently than the fox bodies.

how are you running your ignition?

OCHOHILL

I'd start with the little things you can check yourself. Start with the spark plug wires. Make sure they are run correctly. I don't know how a mechanic could have let a vehicle running that poorly out of the shop.

sick95gt

I had a new clutch put in before the swap. It maybe has 500-1000 miles on it. Ok, here's a break down of the engine. 331, dart pro1 aluminum heads, professional products upper and lower (its the knock off of the edelbrock performer) 1" spacer because the valve covers were too tall, 1.6 roller rockers, f303 cam, MDS 6al, 24# injectors, c&l 76mm tru flow pipe, 70mm edelbrock tb with the elbow to go on a 95, 190lph fuel pumpl, stock fuel rails, thats all I can think of right now. Accessories are stock, but using underdrive pulleys. He set the timing to stock 10* and said he didn't know where the engine builder wanted the timing and could not get a hold of him, so he said he is going to leave it there and I could get a hold of him and see. Some of the things he had to do was to take the old timing cover off of the old engine to get it to fit the stock water pump that he put on the new engine. I know I also don't have th factory smog pump hooked up. It was taken out a while ago and bypassed.
sn95_331_GT_ yellow-When you ask about how I am running my ignition, I do not know enough to tell you. But I can tell you that I just check the distributor and the positive lead was almost broken off, so it probably had a horrible connection and I am surprised that it had a connection at all. I soldered it and make sure the connection was solid and took it for a ride and it runs, but still like trash. The other things that the shop did was replace the rack and pinion because the steering wheel had play, but it still has play, which is awesome. He said there is a little bit of lifter noise that smooths out once it gets warm, but I can hear what sounds like a light constant tick. What's crazy about the whole thing is that I wanted to do a long block and have it built since my last build backfired and ran like trash after a few weeks. I did edelbrock heads, rpm II manifold and ed curtis cam on the last combo and it ran great for a few weeks and after a burn out, it started vibrating like crazy after replacing all the external things that would lead to vibration, a lot of people told me that it was internal like the main crank or something. But it still ran and was on a 302. It also lacked power and felt like it had 100hp and this combo feels exactly the same power wise, but without the crazy vibration.

mjr46

run a koer test first and make sure no codes exist

mustangsneverdie

how long have you had that fuel pump in there?how old is the fuel filter

sn95_331_GT_ yellow

im still thinking it might be something related to the front of the engine. i dont know if a fox style water pump can work on an SN95 timing cover, because its a good deal shorter.

id go back to the shop and ask them whats up. if your engine builder is at reputable, and is willing to back up his work, he should march right down there and stand up for his work too.

if the engine was running the way it was on the engine dyno, the shop that did the install OBVIOUSLY is the culprit. im all for doing my own work and getting my hands dirty, but if someone gave me back my car like the way you say yours is running, id be back there in a heartbeat and not leaving until it was done. correctly. otherwise, theyd be going to court.

i work to damn hard for my money to have some a$$holes like that jerk me around.

sigh, this is why i never have anyone do anything for me. or if they do, its a friend from tech school how has a lift in his garage (gotta love rich parents. i know i love his )