Engine Problem
#1
Engine Problem
OK here is the deal. I'm seaping an oil/radiator fluid mixture from behind the engine block at the rear main seal (the gasket between the belhousing and engine block, could be using the wrong term here). I just changed a blown freeze plug and head gasket (passenger side), and a severely blown head gasket (driver's side). At idel the car runs fairly rough as you can feel it through the pedal and see the hood vibrate pretty badly (hood open). No knocking that I can hear. When I had the heads off there was no visible damage to the pistons or cylinder walls. Also, when I give it gas, an oily residue is blowing out the tail pipes, and I'm still emitting a little white smoke. Also, there is a strong strange odor coming from the engine. Can't quite place it but smells like burnt something or the other.
Do you guys think it's just the gasket that has failed, or could I have a deeper problem? At this point would I be better off buying a rebuilt block. No my internals are not forged however I've been having random problems well before the S/C was installed, I had assumed they were sensor related, but now I'm leaning towards something more sever.
Do you guys think it's just the gasket that has failed, or could I have a deeper problem? At this point would I be better off buying a rebuilt block. No my internals are not forged however I've been having random problems well before the S/C was installed, I had assumed they were sensor related, but now I'm leaning towards something more sever.
#2
Oh, another note.
No visible damage to the valves when I had the heads off. No head warpage that I could see.
Also, at idel, if I gas the car hard enough for the S/C to spool over and positively displace the engine, it tries to die, as soon as a vacuum is held again, it restarts and continues back to an idel.
No visible damage to the valves when I had the heads off. No head warpage that I could see.
Also, at idel, if I gas the car hard enough for the S/C to spool over and positively displace the engine, it tries to die, as soon as a vacuum is held again, it restarts and continues back to an idel.
#4
if coolant and oil is coming from the main seal that means you have coolant in the engine oiling system. and if your running the car this way, your motor is now garbage. when coolant and oil mix in a motor it turns into a gray sludge that is really thick and cant be pumped through the motor which means no lubrication
#5
Reason I didn't have the heads remilled is because I'm broke and really don't care about this car as much now as my Cobra is my new daily driver. If I have to remill the heads, fine, I have nothing better to do, I'm getting pretty fast at tearing this old motor apart now.
The radiator fluid was already in the oil from when I test fired it the other day and saw I had a blown head gasket.
The car hasn't been moved on started and left at idel (car has sat there since August). I'll have to change the oil again, but the oil in the car is brand new just has radiator fluid in it from when I test fired it last week and saw the drivers side head gasket was blown.
So, it is the rear main seal correct? Just wanted to make sure I'm looking at the right part when I go to fix it.
Now to fix it I need a new rear main seal, and oil pan gasket, anything else.
The radiator fluid was already in the oil from when I test fired it the other day and saw I had a blown head gasket.
The car hasn't been moved on started and left at idel (car has sat there since August). I'll have to change the oil again, but the oil in the car is brand new just has radiator fluid in it from when I test fired it last week and saw the drivers side head gasket was blown.
So, it is the rear main seal correct? Just wanted to make sure I'm looking at the right part when I go to fix it.
Now to fix it I need a new rear main seal, and oil pan gasket, anything else.
Last edited by jthorn9; 03-22-2010 at 10:18 PM.
#6
YOU CAN'T SEE WARPAGE MY FRIEND..............you must use a staright edge and feeler gauge to check for such and if you didn't , shame on you, you may end up taking it all back apart to check for such on both heads....your broke is no excuse, cause now you'll be even more broke at tall the gaskets and fluids and so forth that you'll need to purchase again, with the engine cold, remove radiator cap and start it up and see if level rises immidiately, if it does, = you are getting cumbustion in the cooling system = take it back apart.
#7
YOU CAN'T SEE WARPAGE MY FRIEND..............you must use a staright edge and feeler gauge to check for such and if you didn't , shame on you, you may end up taking it all back apart to check for such on both heads....your broke is no excuse, cause now you'll be even more broke at tall the gaskets and fluids and so forth that you'll need to purchase again, with the engine cold, remove radiator cap and start it up and see if level rises immidiately, if it does, = you are getting cumbustion in the cooling system = take it back apart.
#8
Well I did use a straight edge on both heads and looked for warpage, I know the only thing I would of found would have been major warpage, but I figured I'd take the gamble. I don't think the heads are causing any problems at this point, the problem is coming from behind the engine as I originally stated. Just want to make sure I get all the right parts to fix it. If I continue to have a problem then I'll repull the heads and have them remilled, but the fact we don't have a lot of machine shops around here makes some people prices ubsurb.
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