67mustang302

Check plug gap too. If plugs are worn and the gaps are larger the spark could be getting blown out.

Everyones Hero

I did a new set of plugs. Gaped to .044".

Last night on the way to work it was cool & the car would break up above 3k rpm. Today it's nice & warm out. I took it out to get it to operating temp so I could do the KOER test & it ran fine.

I tried to do a KOEO/KOER test & didn't get anything. I jumped the single pin Blk/Org connector to the top right of the barn looking connector, wires were Blk/Wht & Blk/Yel. Also tried running the single pin to the neg battery terminal. Eng light didn't flash at all.

I started the car & the engine/oil lights came on like they always do. It seemed to run through a self-test (idle went up to around 1800, then 2000, then 2200. I let it run for 3 minutes & still no flashing from the engine light.

Am I doing something wrong?

Everyones Hero

Just checked the cap, rotor, & dizzy. Cap & rotor are looking worn so I'm going to replace them.

The dizzy shaft had maybe .5-1mm of play from one side to the other. You can move it but it's barely noticeable.

What would you guys recommend as a new cap/rotor?

Would either of these be good:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MS...NG&prefilter=1

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-8482/

Thanks
-Nick

Everyones Hero

I want to get one of these caps:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-8482/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-12106-B302/

and this light:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1059/

I'd like to get some input on those cap/rotors before I order them, but if I can't get an answer by Sunday I'm just going to order one.

Still haven't been able to pull the codes. Someone at work said it could be the coil because she had the same problem with her car & that was the problem.

I played around with the dizzy & I got it to run WOT fine- but then it would break up while cruising so I put it back to where it had been. Prior to the other day I had never moved the dizzy & this problem just started out of the blue.

86 5.0L

yes, you should sell the poor 4i before you burn it to the ground.

Everyones Hero

Thanks for the constructive answer...

Any idea as to why the engine light wouldn't flash for the KOEO test?

86 5.0L

because the 1986 Ford Mustang did NOT come with an "engine" light.

Everyones Hero

Wow. I'm a tard. I thought you were just being a Dbag.

It has a brake light & an oil light. :hammer: I've had the plastic cover off because I've been messing with the headlight switch, cluster, & radio.

I'll swing by radio shack on Monday & make a test light.

Well- you helped me fix one problem. Thanks. :P

86 5.0L

go to a 99cent store, they have test lights for $1, also place your car/mods in your sig so we know what we are working with. Once you have the codes, come back.

Everyones Hero

Alright, couldn't find a simple test light so I made my own. $1.50 for a 12v 25mA light from radio shack.

Stock '86 5.0 HO with MAF, headers, exhaust.

Codes
KOEO
81- Secondary Air Diverter Circuit Failure (O)
82- Secondary Air Bypass Circuit Failure (O)
95 - Fuel Pump Circuit Open-PCM To Motor Ground (M,O)

Memory
34 - EGR Valve Position/Pressure Feedback EGR Voltage Above Closed Limit (O,R), PFE or EVP circuit has intermittently failed above the closed limit of 0.67 volts (M)
22 - Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Sensor Out Of Self Test Range (O,M,R)
29 - Insufficient Input From Vehicle Speed Sensor -To 1992 (M), Insufficient Input From Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module -From 1993 (M)

KOER
41 - System Indicates Lean -passenger side(R), No o2 Sensor Switching Detected. always lean -passenger side(M)
91 - o2 Sensor Circuit Indicates Lean -driver side(R), No o2 Sensor Switching Detected. always lean -driver side(M), Shift Solenoid 1 Circuit Failure (O)