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Distributor gear destroyed

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Old 06-07-2010, 11:04 PM
  #11  
mjr46
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run a steel gear and flush your motor with a case of oil and change the filter imidiately after flush, hopefully it hasn't or won't suck any of the fine ground up pieces through the motor
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Old 06-08-2010, 07:36 PM
  #12  
Boss_Hotrod
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Originally Posted by 67mustang302
That was a manufacturing defect then.
Well not really. More of an engineering flaw. There was no way for oil pressure to reach that upper bearing. I not sure if a stocker has oil pressure up there or not but it doesnt look like it would.
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Old 06-09-2010, 12:12 AM
  #13  
67mustang302
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It's a sealed bearing or bushing of some sort. It does not recieve lubrication from the engine, only what it was made with.
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Old 06-09-2010, 02:40 PM
  #14  
worm2500
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boss_hotrod

did you go through your engine after your gear teeth broke or just use the flush method?
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Old 06-09-2010, 03:34 PM
  #15  
.boB
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I made the same mistake just last month. Clearly my own fault, for not paying close attention to the parts I was buying. Here's the thread with some pictures.

http://www.ffcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=246987

Take a close look at your cam shaft. Most likely, the gears on the cam look just as bad as the ones on the distributer. You'll probably need to replace the cam.

Pull the pan, and strain the oil to see what might have ended up in the crank case. If possible, cut the filter apart and see what's in there. Take the bottom cover off the oil pump. The gears and drive shaft will drop down into your hand. Inspect everything closely for chips and gouges; evidence that a big chunk got stuck in there.

In my case, all the metal got pulverized into a powder. No damage to the oil pump. It all got picked up by the filter, and saved the engine.
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Old 06-09-2010, 09:01 PM
  #16  
worm2500
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.boB

I read your other forum thread. I made the same mistake and thought the MSD I purchaced had a steel gear when in fact it had an iron one. i will be ordering a steel gear shortly.
thanks everyone for the help.
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Old 06-09-2010, 10:20 PM
  #17  
tinman
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Everything I've EVER seen said to use a bronze gear with a billet steel cam.
Bronze has a definite yellow color to it unlike steel which has a white color.
Hope you can drop the pan and front cover and get the particles out of it.
Look real close at the driver gear on the cam, if it's damaged, it's new cam time.
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Old 06-09-2010, 11:51 PM
  #18  
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im trying to avoide this from happening i just bought an 89 notchback did not have one in it and no one can tell me if i need a steel or case gear or how to tell what i need good luck with yours and i pray i pick the right one!!!
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Old 06-10-2010, 11:53 AM
  #19  
.boB
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Originally Posted by tinman
Everything I've EVER seen said to use a bronze gear with a billet steel cam.
Don't confuse a stell cam with a billit steel cam. Most cams are steel these days, meaning that they are a special hardened steel. As is the stock hydrualic roller cams from Ford. A billit cam is usually a race only part - very expensive, but good to 10K rpm's.


Originally Posted by rcaudill80
im trying to avoide this from happening i just bought an 89 notchback did not have one in it and no one can tell me if i need a steel or case gear or how to tell what i need good luck with yours and i pray i pick the right one!!!
If it's a hydraulic roller cam, it's hardened steel, and needs the steel distributer gear. If it's a flat tappet cam, use a cast iron gear. Stock in 1989 was hydraulic roller.
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Old 06-10-2010, 12:06 PM
  #20  
LS WHAT
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if you flush the motor with oil then put a few strong magnets on the oil filter.
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