Need Help with Front Brake Install Instructions
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 13
Need Help with Front Brake Install Instructions
I am currently working on switching out my pads and rotors on my 1991 Mustang. Needing a link with pictures on how to do a front brake install on a fox body Mustang. I just did the brakes on my 03 mach 1, but these look different. Please Help
5th Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,166
From: NC
Foxes have hubbed rotors. Which means to change the rotors you have to take the cap off, cotter pin, locker, nut, washer, and outer bearing just to slide the rotor off. Honestly if you are changing the rotors put new bearings and a seal in it. They aren't too expensive and you'll be glad you did.
As for the caliper just use a t-50 to take the two long bolts out. Then caliper will slide up out of the way.
To install the bearings fist pack them with a good high quality grease. I use some valvoline synthetic grease on mine. Then install everything back the way it came out with the exception of the locker and cotter pin. While spinning the rotor torque the nut to 25 ft-lbs. Then loosen the nut 1/2 turn. Then torque the nut to 20-25 IN-lbs. Then install your locker, NEW cotter pin and cap. Do not put grease into the cap.
As for the caliper just use a t-50 to take the two long bolts out. Then caliper will slide up out of the way.
To install the bearings fist pack them with a good high quality grease. I use some valvoline synthetic grease on mine. Then install everything back the way it came out with the exception of the locker and cotter pin. While spinning the rotor torque the nut to 25 ft-lbs. Then loosen the nut 1/2 turn. Then torque the nut to 20-25 IN-lbs. Then install your locker, NEW cotter pin and cap. Do not put grease into the cap.
Last edited by Boss_Hotrod; Jun 26, 2010 at 04:45 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 13
Foxes have hubbed rotors. Which means to change the rotors you have to take the cap off, cotter pin, locker, nut, washer, and outer bearing just to slide the rotor off. Honestly if you are changing the rotors put new bearings and a seal in it. They aren't too expensive and you'll be glad you did.
As for the caliper just use a t-50 to take the two long bolts out. Then caliper will slide up out of the way.
To install the bearings fist pack them with a good high quality grease. I use some valvoline synthetic grease on mine. Then install everything back the way it came out with the exception of the locker and cotter pin. While spinning the rotor torque the nut to 25 ft-lbs. Then loosen the nut 1/2 turn. Then torque the nut to 20-25 IN-lbs. Then install your locker, NEW cotter pin and cap. Do not put grease into the cap.
As for the caliper just use a t-50 to take the two long bolts out. Then caliper will slide up out of the way.
To install the bearings fist pack them with a good high quality grease. I use some valvoline synthetic grease on mine. Then install everything back the way it came out with the exception of the locker and cotter pin. While spinning the rotor torque the nut to 25 ft-lbs. Then loosen the nut 1/2 turn. Then torque the nut to 20-25 IN-lbs. Then install your locker, NEW cotter pin and cap. Do not put grease into the cap.
2nd Gear Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 448
From: Illinois
It may sound like more, but it's really not. It's rather simple. I'm a begginer with replacing parts and such on cars and I had no issues. Plus, if you do, there's dozens of guys on here that'll be more than happy to walk you through it.
4th Gear Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,999
From:
Open the bleeder screw and run a hose from the bleeder screw to a container.
Use a screwdriver to push the caliper piston back before you remove the caliper.
Not 100% necessary but it will make the reinstallation easier and will prevent all the junk collected in your caliper from flowing back up into the braking system. Especially important on newer ABS cars.
Use a screwdriver to push the caliper piston back before you remove the caliper.
Not 100% necessary but it will make the reinstallation easier and will prevent all the junk collected in your caliper from flowing back up into the braking system. Especially important on newer ABS cars.
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 28
From: SC
Open the bleeder screw and run a hose from the bleeder screw to a container.
Use a screwdriver to push the caliper piston back before you remove the caliper.
Not 100% necessary but it will make the reinstallation easier and will prevent all the junk collected in your caliper from flowing back up into the braking system. Especially important on newer ABS cars.
Use a screwdriver to push the caliper piston back before you remove the caliper.
Not 100% necessary but it will make the reinstallation easier and will prevent all the junk collected in your caliper from flowing back up into the braking system. Especially important on newer ABS cars.
You can also just get a brake caliper compresser. They're like 7 bucks at o'reilly's and you'll definitely use it more then once.
It can be a little daunting wne you first see everything that you have to take off, but it's really only a couple of bolts, the rotor, and the bearings on each side. As long as you keep everything in order when you're taking it apart it really shouldn't be an issue. Just torque everything the way Boss_Hotrod said and you should be good to go. Also be sure to use some red locktite on the caliper bolts too.
- Spencer
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 877
From: IL
Foxes have hubbed rotors. Which means to change the rotors you have to take the cap off, cotter pin, locker, nut, washer, and outer bearing just to slide the rotor off. Honestly if you are changing the rotors put new bearings and a seal in it. They aren't too expensive and you'll be glad you did.
As for the caliper just use a t-50 to take the two long bolts out. Then caliper will slide up out of the way.
To install the bearings fist pack them with a good high quality grease. I use some valvoline synthetic grease on mine. Then install everything back the way it came out with the exception of the locker and cotter pin. While spinning the rotor torque the nut to 25 ft-lbs. Then loosen the nut 1/2 turn. Then torque the nut to 20-25 IN-lbs. Then install your locker, NEW cotter pin and cap. Do not put grease into the cap.
As for the caliper just use a t-50 to take the two long bolts out. Then caliper will slide up out of the way.
To install the bearings fist pack them with a good high quality grease. I use some valvoline synthetic grease on mine. Then install everything back the way it came out with the exception of the locker and cotter pin. While spinning the rotor torque the nut to 25 ft-lbs. Then loosen the nut 1/2 turn. Then torque the nut to 20-25 IN-lbs. Then install your locker, NEW cotter pin and cap. Do not put grease into the cap.
Its a very SIMPLE process. Wait till you have to do Drum brakes for the first time
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