Pilot Bearing Issue..... Help????
11-01-2010, 02:33 PM
#1
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Join Date: Jan 2008
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Pilot Bearing Issue..... Help????
I posted this in the Classic section because that section pertains to my car, but I thought I might get more responses here.
So far I have removed and installed my T5 3 times Saturday, I realized something doesn't make a lick of sense with the pilot bearing.
I just received my new engine and used a Ford Racing roller bearing (the bearing that goes in the back of the crank to center the trans input shaft.). Every time I go to put the trans in the car, the trans slides in all the way but a 1/4 of an inch; which eludes me to believe that the bearing is holding things up. I called all the mustang shops to figure out what needs to be done and was told two different things. 1. use the trans bolts to force the input shaft into the bearing or 2. have someone press on the clutch pedal while the transmission in being installed to help align things.
Well to make a long story short the only way to get the trans flush with the bell housing is to use the bolts to bring it flush and forcing the input shaft into the bearing. However, once that is done, the engine will not turn by hand and eludes me to believe that something is really wrong with the bearing/alignment. I actually had this same exact thing happen with my last blown engine. The engine does spin freely when the trans bolts are slightly loosen too.
Before I put the roller bearing in the back of the engine, I did make sure that it fit over the input shaft and it did with ease. With my last engine the same exact thing happened, and when this happened, I swapped the bearing to the original style Bronze bushings. Everything worked perfectly with the bronze bushing in place. Can anyone make any sense of this?
So far I have removed and installed my T5 3 times Saturday, I realized something doesn't make a lick of sense with the pilot bearing.
I just received my new engine and used a Ford Racing roller bearing (the bearing that goes in the back of the crank to center the trans input shaft.). Every time I go to put the trans in the car, the trans slides in all the way but a 1/4 of an inch; which eludes me to believe that the bearing is holding things up. I called all the mustang shops to figure out what needs to be done and was told two different things. 1. use the trans bolts to force the input shaft into the bearing or 2. have someone press on the clutch pedal while the transmission in being installed to help align things.
Well to make a long story short the only way to get the trans flush with the bell housing is to use the bolts to bring it flush and forcing the input shaft into the bearing. However, once that is done, the engine will not turn by hand and eludes me to believe that something is really wrong with the bearing/alignment. I actually had this same exact thing happen with my last blown engine. The engine does spin freely when the trans bolts are slightly loosen too.
Before I put the roller bearing in the back of the engine, I did make sure that it fit over the input shaft and it did with ease. With my last engine the same exact thing happened, and when this happened, I swapped the bearing to the original style Bronze bushings. Everything worked perfectly with the bronze bushing in place. Can anyone make any sense of this?
11-01-2010, 03:06 PM
#2
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Join Date: Apr 2008
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Don't force it in by tightening the bolts. That's a guaranteed way to break the trans.
Did this trans fit before the new bearing? Did the new bearing press all the way in?
The roller bearing doesn't seem to provide any additional performance benifit, although you'de think it would. But some cranks are not drilled deep enough to accomidate it.
Also, it's very easy to distort the bearing during installation. What did you use for a clutch alignment tool? The cheaper plast tools will fit even if the bearing is distorted, but the trans input shaft will not.
And you could be getting hung up somewhere else. Be sure to check the flange around the back of the bellhousing for nicks, gouges, etc.
Did this trans fit before the new bearing? Did the new bearing press all the way in?
The roller bearing doesn't seem to provide any additional performance benifit, although you'de think it would. But some cranks are not drilled deep enough to accomidate it.
Also, it's very easy to distort the bearing during installation. What did you use for a clutch alignment tool? The cheaper plast tools will fit even if the bearing is distorted, but the trans input shaft will not.
And you could be getting hung up somewhere else. Be sure to check the flange around the back of the bellhousing for nicks, gouges, etc.
11-02-2010, 07:34 AM
#5
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Join Date: Jan 2008
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Thanks for the info. From what I gather, I got screwed on the transmission. I traded someone a built C4 for their T-5 and was told the T-5 was a HD trans....
The numbers on the tag, which I failed to check, are 1352-238 which is World class from a 95 - 97 3.8 V6 with the 3.35 first and 265ft tq capacity. The bell housing is from an 86 mustang. The roller bearing is a ford racing piece that accepts a .669 diameter input shaft.
Doing further research, the input shaft length on the transmission is 7.85 versus the 79 - 93 input shaft that's 7.14. I believe this is my problem...... Correct?
If that is the case, I have two more questions:
1. Did I just damage my brand new engine by bringing the trans flush to the trans case with the trans bolts? What should I look for ?
2. How do I solve this issue?
The numbers on the tag, which I failed to check, are 1352-238 which is World class from a 95 - 97 3.8 V6 with the 3.35 first and 265ft tq capacity. The bell housing is from an 86 mustang. The roller bearing is a ford racing piece that accepts a .669 diameter input shaft.
Doing further research, the input shaft length on the transmission is 7.85 versus the 79 - 93 input shaft that's 7.14. I believe this is my problem...... Correct?
If that is the case, I have two more questions:
1. Did I just damage my brand new engine by bringing the trans flush to the trans case with the trans bolts? What should I look for ?
2. How do I solve this issue?
11-02-2010, 10:04 AM
#6
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Join Date: Nov 2006
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Engines and trannys literally click together when things are correct... anyone who tells you to force them together with the bell bolts shouldn't even be working at McDonalds.
When it didn't go, you should've pulled it back out and started measuring. Straight edge across the bell and measuring from that to the input shaft would've exposed your issue.
Engines probably fine, but the tranny could be hurt.... tsk, tsk on you.
When it didn't go, you should've pulled it back out and started measuring. Straight edge across the bell and measuring from that to the input shaft would've exposed your issue.
Engines probably fine, but the tranny could be hurt.... tsk, tsk on you.
11-02-2010, 01:28 PM
#8
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everyone hee is giving you ****ty information..
for one, the 94-95 transmissions are 11/16" longer... not 1/4"
get the transmission in as far as it will go and support it there.
connect your clutch cable, and have someone press on the pedal.
slide the trans the rest of the way in.
Reason for this approach: a clutch disk alignment tool will often cause the disc to sag 1/16 to 1/8" below where it needs to be for perfect alignment.
for one, the 94-95 transmissions are 11/16" longer... not 1/4"
get the transmission in as far as it will go and support it there.
connect your clutch cable, and have someone press on the pedal.
slide the trans the rest of the way in.
Reason for this approach: a clutch disk alignment tool will often cause the disc to sag 1/16 to 1/8" below where it needs to be for perfect alignment.
11-03-2010, 07:23 AM
#9
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AdderMK2> I really don't understand where you are coming from with what you are telling me what to do.
Since the input shaft is 11/16" longer, doesn't that mean it will not work with my engine unless I use a bell housing from a 94 - 96 mustang?
I currently have a Pre 93 bell housing. Alignment doesn't appear to be the issue, but the length of the shaft is.
Since the input shaft is 11/16" longer, doesn't that mean it will not work with my engine unless I use a bell housing from a 94 - 96 mustang?
I currently have a Pre 93 bell housing. Alignment doesn't appear to be the issue, but the length of the shaft is.
11-03-2010, 08:59 AM
#10
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you said you could get it 1/4" in... if it was truly a 95+ trans, you wouldnt even get it that close
you say you bought the transmission from someone... or rather, traded it.
Did they use it? did they give you the bellhousing?
It is commonplace to buy the newer transmission and swap the input shaft so that it will fit in a foxbody.
just do what I said and let us know the results
you say you bought the transmission from someone... or rather, traded it.
Did they use it? did they give you the bellhousing?
It is commonplace to buy the newer transmission and swap the input shaft so that it will fit in a foxbody.
just do what I said and let us know the results