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5.0 HO block/Cobra upper - Poor Acceleration/No Torque, Help

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Old 05-27-2011, 01:41 PM
  #11  
offroad
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Another thing about my pump is that it is the factory fuel pump with 220K miles on it! Its only 88lph and on the second rule of thumb of 1/2HP per LPH this fuel pump is probably highly over driven. And who knows if the sock might be plugged at all. What are your all thoughts on upgrading to a 155LPH?
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Old 05-27-2011, 04:09 PM
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Venomantidote95
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If you are going to change the pump just get a 255 and be done, hook up a gauge while running and see if the pressure drops under load instead of going up!

Your est of 250 whp with the listed mods prolly isnt close, maybe 230 on a great day! with 4.56 your rpm should shoot up rapidly, that 35" tires and bulky 9" rearend plus your front drivetrain you are most likely eating up most of your power just running on the road normally.

Make sure your fpr is operating properly before you swap pumps and have the same issue!
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Old 05-27-2011, 04:13 PM
  #13  
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ok my bad i just watched the video, it sounds like your fpr is too a ****. we just had to replace one on my buddies car, doing the exact same thing.

Step 1 check the pressure while running, step 2 replace fpr, then the pump if you cant sustain the volume of fuel needed.
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Old 05-27-2011, 05:05 PM
  #14  
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Venom,

I actually upgraded to the holley adjustable fpr specifically to eliminate the possibility of issues and ensure correct pressure at the rails. I adjusted it to 39/40 psi vacuum off and plugged. If I increase the pressure beyond this the problem becomes worse! If I lean it out at all it gets worse lol. 39psi is the sweet spot. I don't suspect the fpr. I would like to see what the fuel pressure does under wot and under load. Autozone will rent me a gauge for $150 deposit which u get back on return. Kinda steep! If I do this what pressure should I watch for? Like I said its 39psi vac off. Should it be 39 under wot? More? Less? How little is too little etc.

Also it starred out what u said about how my truck sounded.. what did u say?

Thanks!
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Old 05-27-2011, 06:49 PM
  #15  
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Well i went back and reread my post and i didnt see where i said anything about sound lol!
You have to be sure the fpr is working properly. when the vac is off it is simulating wot, thats what your pressure will be! when you connect the vac line it should drop about 3-4 psi (under vaccum) idling!
My friend bought a kirkban or whatever it is brand new it lasted 2 trips down the road and took a dump!
sometimes new parts are defective!
Rule it out then move on!

When you turn your key on eng off and the pump primes what does it sound like, loud whine or hardly noticable? usually need a second person to listen to the tank.

Last edited by Venomantidote95; 05-27-2011 at 06:51 PM.
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Old 06-06-2011, 12:14 PM
  #16  
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Hey guys,

I haven't had the time or resources yet to strap a fuel gauge on while driving to test WOT/Load readings. I have been reading around the forums for other ideas and came across "Fan Wash" or Fan Turbulence. I have never heard of this concept prior (really wish I had when I designed/built my CAI). My CAI and fan setup is a classic NO NO for fan wash! I have a mustang clutch fan from mustangs unlimited with NO shroud because my custom radiator didn't mate with the shroud I had. I also have a 6x7" K&N cone filter that is DIRECTLY in line with the fan! My MAF is attached to the filter too, see pic below:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y1/...6/IMG_0921.jpg
(Note: at the time it was a flex fan on there, now a clutch fan)

There is a TON of air that comes off the fan directly at the K&N. Is it possibly that after 3K+ RPM that the CFM of air being pulled in by the engine is great enough to counter act any fan wash? Possibly explains the sub 3K rpm performance loss?

I'm debating how to fix this issue, a fender style intake like the mustangs probably won't be easy to accomplish with the Ranger fender, its really thin in that region. Would a shield around the filter be sufficient? How much of a shield? What sides etc? How close/far from the filter should it be as not to restrict airflow?

Thoughts?
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Old 06-06-2011, 12:25 PM
  #17  
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changing the rear gear ratio would definitely make it peel out on "packed dirt" lol. just a start...
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Old 06-06-2011, 12:42 PM
  #18  
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It already has 4:56 gears front and rear. I normally run 35x12.50 BFG Mud terrains. But I have a set of 31's for when I have to go to emissions. 4:56 are pretty big for 31's and this issue is consistent with smaller tires. I don't feel gearing is the issue, obviously it would just get me out of my 'problem area' quicker but I'd suffer highway mileage. Not to mention gears for front and rear axles would be spendy
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Old 06-06-2011, 12:44 PM
  #19  
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Also, if anyone suggests making some sort of air dam to surround the Filter does anyone have some pictures of custom built ones that I could reference?
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