5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

Battery indicator light on...

Old Nov 1, 2011 | 10:48 PM
  #1  
CLNSHVNnDRAGGN's Avatar
CLNSHVNnDRAGGN
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Default Battery indicator light on...

So I just got my 95 GT a couple weeks ago and first thing I did was put a stereo in it. Even with a 2.5 farad cap my lights and everything were dimming and I could watch the volt needle bounce all over even when driving at higher rpms. Tonight I decided to do the big 3 with some left over 0 awg wiring I had. I just piggy backed the alt to fuse box wire, replaced the fuse box to battery wire, and piggy backed the chasis ground. I couldn't get the engine ground nut off so I didn't do that one yet but I figure the 4 awg should be ok for now. Anyway, after doing this the battery indicator light is on and I can't figure out why. I went back through and made sure everything is connected good but still can't figure it out. Car still starts and runs fine. I haven't had a chance to go back out and pull the pos cable while it's running to see if the alt is still charging but plan to in the morning. Any other suggestions on what to check or what might be going on?
Old Nov 5, 2011 | 10:30 AM
  #2  
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Have you stuck a voltmeter to the battery to see what it is actually charging at? Even with a stereo....unless it is UNGODLY huge...you shouldn't have a charging issue. Your alt is a 130amp alt from the factory. Sounds like your alternator has taken a crap on you truthfully.... Check all your fuses too. I don't remember if the SN's have a fuse that can keep the car from charging correctly....
Old Nov 6, 2011 | 12:19 AM
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CLNSHVNnDRAGGN
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I actually figured out the indicator light issue today. There was a white wire going to the alternator that had been pulled out of the plug. It looks like the plug was probably tampered with by a previous owner but I got it secured now. Along the way I did check the alt and it was charging at 14.4v. Not sure of the amps but I did have it tested and was told it tested fine. As for the stereo I'm running approx 1400 rms total and with the 2.5 farad cap it still doesn't keep up so I don't know if the alt is just getting weak or what the issue is. I've ran this same stereo in other vehicles with smaller alternators and never had an issue. Guess I'm going to have to look into a larger alternator (250amp+) and an extra battery come tax time because eventually I want to put my 2 Xtant X1001's on my 2 RE Audio MT12's.
Old Nov 6, 2011 | 06:26 AM
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IDK if they make that big of an alt for a 5.0........but good luck
Old Nov 6, 2011 | 06:34 AM
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ugh.... ghetto bass...

so sad
Old Nov 6, 2011 | 10:27 AM
  #6  
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CLNSHVNnDRAGGN
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Originally Posted by AdderMk2
ugh.... ghetto bass...

so sad
No ghetto bass here. SQ>SPL
Old Nov 6, 2011 | 11:09 AM
  #7  
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not ghetto base because of what equipment you are using........


ghetto base because its the fact that you are puting SOOOOO MUCH stereo in a Mustang.....really....what is the point in so much stereo equipment in a muscle car?
Old Nov 6, 2011 | 11:52 AM
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1400 rms is a ton of juice, if you feel the need for more than one farad, you have ghetto bass, not sq. I run 2 12" mtx subs at around 250-300rms (can't remember exactly) and its plenty. Also keep in mind capacitors need charged, they relieve stress under heavy load but still draw that back from the cars electrical system
Old Nov 6, 2011 | 03:39 PM
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The most "system" my cars have seen was my S10, which had two 10" JLW0's in a stealthbox, powered by a 300 watt MTX amp.

My Cobra has a factory radio/tape/CD, and so does my WRX. I see no need to blast my music, letting everyone else know just how horrible my taste for music is.

However, since none of this thread is actually tech related, it belongs in the stereo sub forum.
Old Nov 6, 2011 | 06:16 PM
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I had a 1500 RMS, 3k peak Alpine Type R 15" in my Explorer with a 1.5 farad cap, worked splendid.
ported box + that sub + matching alpine amp + SUV = earpopping bass
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