Running lean with my new intake how do i balance it back? - Page 3 - MustangForums.com


5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

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Old 11-23-2011, 05:54 PM   #21  
marlyman
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Truthfully if you have the cash I would replace both of them just to be safe. Then double check the ground on the back of the head and make sure its clean and tight. THat is the ground for the o2 sensors.

The adjustable regualtor is a good thing and will help out. The motor will feel smoother thru out the RPMS. Especially with the bigger pump. WIth the return style system our cars have you can't go too big on the pump so it allows for room in your build. Adjust the pressure so it has about 32psi with the vacuum line connected. That means you will adjust it, attach the line and check....

IDK if we discussed it yet but check your plugs/replace them with standard autolite plugs and make sure your plug gap is right. Replace the fuel filter.....basically do a tune up on the thing.
Right on man totally appreciate the help - ima jus get the 2 o2s check my 02s ground wire on back of head, do a quick tune up wires plugs filter cap / rotor.. an i should be getting my bbk FPR today after work so ill throw my 255 pump an th fpr on an the two new o2s an ima jus cross my fingers when i go to smog it : ) im sure it will pass no prob after this...ill get back on here an post my results but again thanks hella for ur input ...!
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Old 12-05-2011, 06:00 PM   #22  
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Uhg ok well, its never ending! uhg so i pulled my codes got 32 an 41 a bunch of times, replaced my 02s and it made the emissions that failed the first smog test pass but now my "no ppm" is failing because the readings are too high..the guy called it the nox or nocks are too high so i went an got a new egr (just the valve) and it made the nox/knocks or wtf ever go down a bit but still not enough...! Uhg im not sure if im even getting signal to the damn thing (egr) i say that because once i put on the new egr i thought id be able to see the diaphram move or something when i give some throttle but i saw nothing...ive been doing researchan im not suer but sounds like i need to get a gauge with a long line to put a T between the egr or something so that while im actually driving an not in nuetral (so there will be load) to check to see if its working/doing what its supposed to....all my vacuum lines seem to be in good working shape i mean i know im getting vacuum to the egr just dunno do i need to replace the electrical portion of the egr? or geez im just stumped over here..I got lean codes / smog guy said runnign to lean now i fixed that with the 02s but now my nox/knocks are to high?! uhg uhm also smog guy said if i were to put on that bbk AFR that it wouldnt be smog legal so scratch that idea to fix the lean condition..any ideas? i was looking an think its either the TAB or TAD that has it but theres a connection that is open an has vacuum..ive got it capped off for now its the TAD/TAB that is closest to fender an not the one closest to engine...i found a vacuum diagram but pretty sure what im talking about needs to be capped off...i dunno any input or thoughts/ideas??? Oh and my damn temp gauge has been acting super weird like bouncing from cool to super hot (past the markings) an sometimes it 'll start over heating like during my last smog check it started over heating at an idle...ive gone thru like 4 aluminum 2-4 core radiators in the past 8 months !! now i got a stock aluminum one from kragen thats working pretty good so far but still getting weird readings from my gauge dunno y think ima remove my thermastat an maybe go with an electrical water pump cuz my undertdrive pulleys might be makin the water pump run too slow or something...uhg i only bring that up because smog guy said that could maybe be an issue ....? im at a loss dunno wtf [email protected]#[email protected]$%
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Old 12-05-2011, 06:16 PM   #23  
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might help to know - this is my setup - rebuilt motor bored out .30 over new pistons new rings new crank/bearings, used stock roller cam out of an 88 new bearings new freezeplugs got some stock e7s with valve job/new valves surfacing stock lifters pushrods an rocker assembly..stock MAF an injectors, cobra upper/lower, 65mm throttle body, cold air intake, underdrive pulleys, ac delete, power steering delete (flaming river manual rack&pinion), 150 amp one wire alternator, two electric fans, aluminum radiator..and thats about it for under the hood...motor passed smog with flying colors 2 years ago now it just doesnt want to! : (
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Old 12-05-2011, 06:48 PM   #24  
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Your temp isn't staying consistent so your A/F ratios are all over the place. The A/F ratio is also controlled by the coolant temp sensor located on the metal coolant line on the passenger side of the intake.

Instead of wasting your money on ANOTHER radiator how about you replace the thermostat and flush the coolant system and then run a quality antifreeze through it.

At what temps are your fans kicking on and off?
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Old 12-05-2011, 08:04 PM   #25  
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Your temp isn't staying consistent so your A/F ratios are all over the place. The A/F ratio is also controlled by the coolant temp sensor located on the metal coolant line on the passenger side of the intake.

Instead of wasting your money on ANOTHER radiator how about you replace the thermostat and flush the coolant system and then run a quality antifreeze through it.

At what temps are your fans kicking on and off?

hahaha i know i know cant believe i went thru so many radiators ...just this my only car an i work outta town so i had to make it work ... : ( uhg ...So i was thinking im just gunna pull the thermastat an run with out one bcuz the one thats in there is brand new damn it! : ( uhm so yeah i should replace the coolent temp sensor then? i know i shouldve already i mean when i took it off my stock intake manifold an put onto the cobra one it was pretty blacked up ..knew i shoulda just replaced it... oh wow so my a/f ratio is controlled by the coolent temp sensor too? think the smog guy said something like that too...hmmmph oh an i got my fans hookde to my ignition so they come on whenever key is on on position...
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Old 12-05-2011, 09:00 PM   #26  
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hahaha i know i know cant believe i went thru so many radiators ...just this my only car an i work outta town so i had to make it work ... : ( uhg ...So i was thinking im just gunna pull the thermastat an run with out one bcuz the one thats in there is brand new damn it! : ( uhm so yeah i should replace the coolent temp sensor then? i know i shouldve already i mean when i took it off my stock intake manifold an put onto the cobra one it was pretty blacked up ..knew i shoulda just replaced it... oh wow so my a/f ratio is controlled by the coolent temp sensor too? think the smog guy said something like that too...hmmmph oh an i got my fans hookde to my ignition so they come on whenever key is on on position...
Not exactly the same reason but it helps explain the ECT sensor....

https://mustangforums.com/forum/5-0l...l.html#2355308

If your fans are running constantly and you are still overheating then you have other issues. It sounds like your water pump is taking a crap though with it overheating at idle. Do not run without a thermostat. It is there to help control your coolant temp which in turn helps control your a/f and spark tables. If it is constantly under 170* it will probably not run in closed loop mode....when the computer uses the signal from the o2's to help control a/f....there is not a definite temp when this happens but it normally doesn't go into closed loop until about that temp.

take a weekend, replace the waterpump and thermostat then flush the system. Take your time and do it right so you don't have any leaks. There is no reason for your car to run that hot. I drove around Texas all summer with a stock radiator and unless I was beating on the car or sitting in traffic I rarely turned on my fan.

Just for testing reasons I would hook up a mechanical gauge and see what the temp is actually doing while at idle.
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Old 12-06-2011, 11:10 PM   #27  
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wow right on i never woulda guessed the damn coolant temp sensor had anything to do with the a/f ratio...its always the damn little things...well i got the new sensors an its already running better my temp gauge isnt bouncing all over man thanks a damn million !!! now im just hoping those sensors did it.. my luck probly not haha but seriously i do have a good feeling cuz ive replaced damn near everything! : ) uhm so last i did my smog test (stupid cali) my nox/knocks were too high...wtf is that? the no ppm = "nox/knocks" which = ?? : ) thanks again an i will put more posts on the results of next test!#[email protected] thanks again man huge help...!
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Old 12-07-2011, 07:58 AM   #28  
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Glad to hear it, good luck! Your bill will be in the mail :P
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Old 12-07-2011, 09:42 PM   #29  
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hahaha yess i do owe u a million : ) think ima have to start a tab with u lol ahem but uhg it just wont end ! right before i started it up today i put the coolant temp sensor that goes on the manifold in an thru a lil bit of oil in because i got a small consistant leak im thinking rear main seal uhg but thats a whole other story...so i start the beast up an runs pretty badly uhm a lot of white smoke comin outta my tailpipes...probly just needed to warm up but anyways i raelly dont think my egr is getting signal an toady i was running hot again..uhg..i ordered an electric waterpump so ima replace that damn waterpump cuz i think its goin out or just not spinning enough during idle because of the under drive pulleys? who knows.. back to the egr tho uhm i remember someone (probly you) saying something about putting a line to the egr an give it vacuum to see ow it runs...an well i pulled off the vacuum line an i mean i smoke ciggerettes but still got some lung power gave a a couple big sucks an yeah my motor started running super crappy : ( like whenever i gave the suctionto the egr just ran like [email protected]@$% uhg so im thinking my egr isnt getting signal to it because for 1: when i put vacuum to it (lung power) engine runs ruff/crappy an for 2 : i tried unplugging the wire harness and/or the vacuum line from the egr while motor was on an nothing happened! .. engine didnt run different at all so im guessing i mean it only makes sense that the egr isnt doing anything at all correcT? uhg what would make the egr not get signal/work? i mean when i bout the new egr i only got the valve ($100) an i used my old uhm sensor or whatever u bolt to the valve that the harness plugs into.. think it could be just that thats not working/broken or would/could it just be a break in the wire? UHG hate electrical problems so hard to find where its shorted/[email protected]#$% haha so what u think??? : ) ima get my cooling system down as soon as i get the new water pump so this egr is what im really curious / confused bout...
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Old 12-07-2011, 10:05 PM   #30  
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Are you having to replace coolant from time to time? You don't need to waste the money on an electric pump man, just get a normal $40 pump.

You said you have the a/c and p/s deleted...how do you have the belt ran?

What spark plugs do you have in it and what are they gaped at?

Your code 32 that you had earlier is, EGR Valve Position/Pressure Feedback EGR Voltage Below Closed Voltage.....indicates that the EGR valve has issues, whether it is the valve or the sensor for it I can't tell you for sure.

Did the white smoke eventually clear out? White smoke means you are burning coolant. You didn't mention it before so I am going to assume it started after you changed the ECT sensor.
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