acmumph

Looking for info regarding the bolts used for gas tank straps. I've looked all over the internet, but am unable to find them. I believe they are called "U-Type Speed Nuts". Anyone know where I can buy replacements?

Also could use any suggestions on troubleshooting installation of new fuel pump. Apparently I'm not getting any power to fuelpump. I checked by connecting a temp hose to output side of fuel filter and nothing came out....Not sure why? I replaced the relay under the driver seat and it "clicks" and gets rather warm. I also ensured the safety cut-off switch wasn't popped...

Appreciate any info...so does my 16 yr old...

mattdel

Here's your bolts: http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...Strap-Hardware

The fuel pump ground circuit is grounded at two places. G400 is labeled as "Center rear of trunk, LH side of striker". G301 is "Below center console, on parking brake assembly". Check both for proper contact and grounding.

The pink/black wire coming in to the relay should be 12v at all times. It has an 18 gauge fuseable link on it, which will be near the starter solenoid on the inner fender under the hood.

The red wire should be 12v with the key on only.

Light brown/orange is the self test wire for the fuel pump. This wire should only be 12v during the computers self-diag testing.

Outgoing power from the relay is dark green/yellow. This leads to the inertia switch in the trunk, and out from the brown/pink wire until the connector at the fuel pump, when it becomes pink/black.

acmumph

Appreciate the info. I wasn't clear in describing the gas tank bolt problem. I am looking for the clip that the bolt screws into. here is a pic of what it looks like:
https://picasaweb.google.com/1007568...eat=directlink

I'm not sure what it is called. I've been looking at websites looking with no luck....

Thanks again

mattdel

Called a u-nut. You won't find any online per application, they're matched up to thread pitches. Some even accept multiple threads. After purchasing new bolts, head over to your local parts house and ask one of the rep's to look through the HELP section and match one up to the threads of the new bolts.

acmumph

I replaced the fuel pump. All of the original wiring and harnesses were used. I turned key on did not hear the fuel pump. I traced the power from the relay switch (because I heard it clicking) to the fuel cut-off switch (inertia switch). Once I disconnected it from body of the car I noticed the plug had signs of melting..see link(https://picasaweb.google.com/1007568...irectlink)...I jumpered it to by-pass the fuel cut-off switch. When I turned the key on I heard the fuel pump, but quickly noticed some smoke on the jumpered wire. Is there something I need to check between the fuel pump relay switch and the fuel pump cut-off switch?

1. What voltage reading should I expect from the green-yellow wired at the inertia switch with the key on? what about with key-off (i'm thinking that should be 0)?

2. What voltage reading should I expect from the brown-pink wire after fuel cut-off switch with key on?

Before I realized the fuel cut-off switch was heating up enough to have signs of melting, I noticed the relay switch was rather warm as well...

Appreciate any insight before I have it towed to a repair shop for repair...

Thanks,
Aaron

mattdel

Both voltages should be nearly the same as the battery voltage at the time, depending on the battery right around 12.4v while not running, 14.4v~ with engine on.

The wire heating and smoking means the power feed is shorting to ground or is receiving crazy excess voltage. You can check that with a test light. Attach the gator clip(ground) of a test light to a 12v source, and probe your fuel system power wires while the key is off. Light will light up if you're shorting. Then, systematically detach harnesses until you isolate it.