95 gt issues
#11
Mine has no cats but only has 2 o2 sensors. Looked around under car and dont see any.wiring for more. Still has stock injectors but i have a set of the newer style 19lb injectors I'm considering installing to see if it makes any difference. Unplugging the temp sensor does cause the fan to come on, but i guess that doesn't mean its functioning correctly. It does seem to run much better when cold till it heats up
Sounds as though your car was re-worked using EEC-IV level of EFI before Ford went to 2 O2 sensors per side, at either end of the cats. I've used 2 like you have with no cats, with very good results in doing conversions. However, no idea what would happen if attempting to run a 4-sensor car with a 2 sensor PCM (computer). What remains unknown is whether the car ever ran right before you got it. May be a bit difficult to unravel, but I'll be glad to help if I can.
BTW 19 LB injectors were the factory standard size on 5.0 HOs in Mustangs. How do you know yours are not 19LB? If bigger, it would load up the engine with too much fuel. If it turns out you have 24 LB injectors in there, a '93 Cobra PCM will run them (Cobra had 24s), but the Mass Air calibration must match. imp
#12
The injectors in it now are the original style fat body orange. I actually have 2 other sets. One set of orange new style out of the same 96 explorer i found at the local salvage yard that i got the 3 bar gt40 heads from, and another set of new style 24lb i got from a buddy who got them new and installed them in his car only to wreck it after just 40 miles. I will probably put those in eventually but wanted to get it running half way right before swapping them and installing the gt40s with a cam swap. As far as how it ran before i couldnt really tell you. When i got the car and got it to crank then drove it onto the trailer, the guy i got it from made the comment that was the first time he had seen it move under its own power. He had it for about a year before i got it and just wasnt mechanically inclined at all. I've gotten it further in 4 weeks than he did the entire uear he had it, but my last 5.0 was a 91 foxbody back in the mid 90s. Ha
#13
The injectors in it now are the original style fat body orange. I actually have 2 other sets. One set of orange new style out of the same 96 explorer i found at the local salvage yard that i got the 3 bar gt40 heads from, and another set of new style 24lb i got from a buddy who got them new and installed them in his car only to wreck it after just 40 miles. I will probably put those in eventually but wanted to get it running half way right before swapping them and installing the gt40s with a cam swap. As far as how it ran before i couldnt really tell you. When i got the car and got it to crank then drove it onto the trailer, the guy i got it from made the comment that was the first time he had seen it move under its own power. He had it for about a year before i got it and just wasnt mechanically inclined at all. I've gotten it further in 4 weeks than he did the entire uear he had it, but my last 5.0 was a 91 foxbody back in the mid 90s. Ha
That may be your answer. Hopefully you bought it pretty reasonable. Hate to think he got the better deal. Colors and styles of injectors don't help much. You can get an idea if you have an injector of known capacity and compare it's nozzle size with one of unknown capacity. Good luck! imp
#14
Cant complain on the price. Got it for $1000 with staggered fr500 wheels, bbk long tube headers, a bbk x pipe, bbk 75mm throttle body, bbk adjustable fuel pressure regulator, and a explorer gt40 upper and lower intake all extra. I probably got my moneys worth in extra parts
#16
One more question. I know when setting the timing the rotor has to point at no 1 cylinder atdc but does it matter what position the base of the distributor is in? From what i can tell it's spun 180 around from where every other i have seen. The wiring plug is coming out the back side against the intake instead of the front towards the driver side like every other one I've seen
#17
One more question. I know when setting the timing the rotor has to point at no 1 cylinder atdc but does it matter what position the base of the distributor is in? From what i can tell it's spun 180 around from where every other i have seen. The wiring plug is coming out the back side against the intake instead of the front towards the driver side like every other one I've seen
Face the vehicle like it's coming towards you. Looking straight down at the distributor from above, the TFI connector should lie at about the 6:00 O'clock position of a circle slightly bigger than the distributor cap. imp
#20
One more question. I know when setting the timing the rotor has to point at no 1 cylinder atdc but does it matter what position the base of the distributor is in? From what i can tell it's spun 180 around from where every other i have seen. The wiring plug is coming out the back side against the intake instead of the front towards the driver side like every other one I've seen
You need to stab it correctly. It may work this way but, I am sure you don't want your engine bay to look like a retard.
Do it like this. #1 should about pointed at your plenum bolt. Then you can use this pic to make sure your injector timing is correct.
EDIT: You want to follow the green line, not the red like the picture shows. So, stab the distributor exactly as pictured but have the #1 pointed at your right/passenger side plenum bolt. Not towards the firewall like pictured.