5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

Need Help (Drivetrain issue)

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Old Apr 13, 2020 | 01:31 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by wbrockstar
Even if the TOB is up against and pressing on the pressure plate fingers,that doesn't necessarily mean its pushing the fingers in far enough to disengage the disk from the flywheel.If you can't put it in gear or take it out of gear with the engine running,but you can if the engine is shutoff,its clearly not disengaging properly.Since you ordered the transmission new,chances are very high that you got the correct transmission for your year model.However,if you had to cut the input shaft shorter to make it fit,the chances are really high that you may have the wrong bellhousing as mentioned earlier.Ford made the bellhousing deeper on 94-95 models for the sole purpose of placing the shifter in the correct location for the console and dash,so when they done this they also had to lengthen the input shaft too,to makeup the difference for the bellhousing redesign.So having a bellhousing thats too shallow for the transmission to fit and having to shorten the input shaft would almost certainly mean the wrong bellhousing is being used.The clutch fork must also match the bellhousing being used because the two forks are different.The 94-95 fork is longer & its at a different clocked position compared to a 87-93 fork.So if you've got a 87-93 bellhousing,a Foxbody fork is needed.If you've got a 94-95 bellhousing,a SN95 fork is needed.To be honest,& when looking at the fork differences in the picture below,Im not even sure if the wrong fork would even fit in the correct bellhousing or not (in relation to the cable to fork angle) but by the looks of it,it seems like the SN95 fork would be way way too long horizontally to even hookup to the cable if you were using a Foxbody bellhousing with a SN95 fork in a 94-95 model with a 94-95 T5??

I'll be back shortly to add some additional info in.





I’ll be sure to compare the 2.
we were going to take the trans back out soon to try to find the problem.
it makes sense that the bell housings are different.
I thought about it before we put the trans in. Because both the bell housings I have. The new and old one both say 5.0 on top. But it does make sense that they’d be different since one would be from a fox 5.0 and then the sn95 5.0.

I’m currently out in town right now. But when I get home I’ll try to send some pictures and stuff of what it looks like now.
I wish I could send videos over here, but It won’t accept the videos I took on my iPhone. I’ll probably just have to upload them to YouTube or something and send the link here.

I appreciate the help! I think that could be the issue
Old Apr 13, 2020 | 07:37 PM
  #12  
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Here’s a video I put on YouTube showing the inside.

other than that. Here’s some pictures that may be of use.





This was the new transmission we got for a 94-95 mustang gt. However we took the bell housing off this one. And put our old one on it. At the time we figured that the old one fit on, so it wouldn’t hurt to use it again. Even though now I’ve been told the two bell housings are different.



Old Apr 15, 2020 | 04:46 PM
  #13  
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So I went back over to the car today to see what bellhousing was in the car, and to see what old one was in it before.
And they both were the same model/cast number. And I measured them both and they’re both roughly 8 inches long.
so I’m completely stumped.
I took some pictures in hope someone knows the answer.
it’d be a miracle to see this thing move.
seems almost hopeless.

Old bell housing off the car when I bought it.








Old bell housing length.

also, I added some cast off the block.
I don’t actually know the exact year of the engine.
because the owner didn’t know if it were swapped.
And I did find out the trans that was in it before came from a mid 80s 4 cylinder thunderbird.
Old Apr 16, 2020 | 10:39 AM
  #14  
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So. Later that same day (yesterday now)
we found that when it was in the air, we could put it in gear with it running and rack through the gears.
5th and reverse didn’t seem to work. (Probably means something important.)
then we found out that if you hold the clutch in and hit the brakes, the engine wants to stall out and die.
we know the clutch fork is engaging all the way, and we see the throw out bearing engaging into the pressure plate springs. And double checked before hand that we installed the clutch in the proper direction. And torqued everything to spec.

our current and only idea is that maybe the input shaft is too long. And the transmission isn’t actually for a 94-95 mustang.
I have 2 94-95 bell housings shown with the castings so we know it’s the right one.
why we think that, is because in order for us to get the transmission in originally. We had to shave part of it off just for it to to go in and bolt up.
were thinking it’s still a little too long and needs to be shaven down a little since it may be dragging still.
Old Apr 16, 2020 | 08:26 PM
  #15  
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how are you adjusting the clutch cable
Old Apr 16, 2020 | 08:31 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by TrimDrip
how are you adjusting the clutch cable
through the firewall adjuster.
Old Apr 16, 2020 | 10:47 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by OrgasmicLarry69
So I went back over to the car today to see what bellhousing was in the car, and to see what old one was in it before.
And they both were the same model/cast number. And I measured them both and they’re both roughly 8 inches long.
so I’m completely stumped.
I took some pictures in hope someone knows the answer.
it’d be a miracle to see this thing move.
seems almost hopeless.

Old bell housing off the car when I bought it.








Old bell housing length.

also, I added some cast off the block.
I don’t actually know the exact year of the engine.
because the owner didn’t know if it were swapped.
And I did find out the trans that was in it before came from a mid 80s 4 cylinder thunderbird.
The # on the block in the 2nd to last picture shows it as being a block that was designed for a 1991 Thunderbird.So this may actually be the block that your 94 5.0 came equipped with from the factory.The digits stamped in the flat pad on the top of the block *rear* (where the lower intake meets the block at the rear,behind the intake end rail seal) are the ones needed to id the exact vehicle the block actually came out of from the factory.If these digits match the last 8 digits of your vin number,its your original block. So if you wanna check your block for these digits then compare them with the last 8 in your vin number,it'll tell you if its the original block to the car.According to some recent browsing,the engines in the 91-93 Tbirds were also used in the 94-95 Mustangs since they both share the same block hugging accessories.
F= 90's
1= 91
S= Tbird
E= Engine group

It looks like the bellhousing must be the correct one.It has a F4ZR #.
F= 90's
4= 94
Z= Mustang
R= Manual transmission

1994 Mustang Manual Transmission Bellhousing



Last edited by wbrockstar; Apr 18, 2020 at 05:39 PM.
Old Apr 17, 2020 | 02:10 AM
  #18  
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so you are out of adjustment completely, the fork can not physically move any further
Old Apr 17, 2020 | 02:50 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by TrimDrip
so you are out of adjustment completely, the fork can not physically move any further
correct
it’s so far in that when I have my friend put the clutch in, the clutch fork squeezes my finger.

Old Apr 17, 2020 | 06:42 AM
  #20  
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Did you say the transmission that came out of it had a engineering/casting # that was for a Tbird Super Coupe and I take it you bought this car in undriveable form correct??
Use the info in the following link to make sure the T5 is actually the correct one regardless of what tag is on it because anyone can change that tag.


http://www.pro-forceperformance.com/t-5_identification.htm

Last edited by wbrockstar; Apr 17, 2020 at 07:59 AM.



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