5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

short block

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Old 11-07-2005, 10:14 PM
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ballzoutstang875.0
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Default short block

my motor is tired and i am thinking of buying a new stock 302 short block from texas mustang. the price isnt bad and on my current motor, i eat about as much oil as i do gas...not joking. if i were to get the new bottom end, whick setup should I go with as far as pistons, heads, manifold, ect. im trying to keep my budget low- at or under $2000 but the most hp I can get for the buck. i already have a cam in my motor now- a comp cam with a 224 duration, so i would just switch it out. what else do I need to make an estimated 325-350hp for under $2 grand. including stock replacement 302 short block, heads, manifold, pistons and anything else that i need to get my wanted hp. the only thing that i want to keep stock is the short block, thats why im going with just a direct replacement. I can always get it bored out and stroked if i want more hp down the road.... advice please
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Old 11-08-2005, 03:21 PM
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fordguy17
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Default RE: short block

so you are wanting to buy a shortblock that includes pistons, rods, crank and heads and than replace everything with aftermarket stuff?

maybe i'm not understanding you right, but why not start with a block out of the junkyard and than build that up?

it would be hard (actually impossible) to build a good bottom end and than a top end that can support 350 hp....
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Old 11-08-2005, 03:27 PM
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Derf00
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Default RE: short block

ORIGINAL: fordguy17

so you are wanting to buy a shortblock that includes pistons, rods, crank and heads and than replace everything with aftermarket stuff?

maybe i'm not understanding you right, but why not start with a block out of the junkyard and than build that up?

it would be hard (actually impossible) to build a good bottom end and than a top end that can support 350 hp....
If it includes heads, its not a shortblock.

Ballz, if you're going to be ordering a longblock and replacing everything, go with what Fordguy17 says, get a shortblock (no heads) from a junk yard and build it up.
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Old 11-12-2005, 09:17 PM
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ballzoutstang875.0
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Default RE: short block

well, ok since thats what all my buddies have told me. I just figured it sounded better to have everything new?lol. i know I can get a motor from a jnk yrd for like $300. now all I would need is a rebuild kit right? as far as rings, seals, rods....ect. what about valve springs and pistons, or would those come with the rebuild kit? im pretty sure pistons wouldnt? sorry, but u gotta help me out here, this is my first big motor refreshing and just need to know what to get. im not an idiot when it comes to cars, i know how to put a motor together, just need to know what to get for the setup that i want! thanks.
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Old 11-12-2005, 09:44 PM
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TAPOUT
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Default RE: short block

I recently bought a complete engine from a guy for $200, tore it down to nothing, bought the Summit 347 stroker kit for $1300, and had all the machine work, balancing on the bottom end and assembly of the entire engine for about $650. So If you use your cam, heads and balancer. and intake manifolds, timing chain, water pump, pulleys, etc. you can be around $2200 and ready to go. Kit comes with 10.2:1 Keith Black pistons (with 65cc heads. I have 60cc chambers for 10.5:1), H-beam rods, Crank, bearings, oil pump, gaskets, etc... Check it out, might give you a bit more power with more Cubic Inches. Beware that once you start refreshing this, and that, you will begin buying more and more parts, just because you are there, and it is beter to do it once. Even though this small part of the build was cheap, I bought Moroso oil pan, New even biggre cam, had a bunch of head work done, new roller rockers, lifters, pushrods, waterpump, fluiddamper balancer, underdrive pulleys, NX NO2 plate system, everything. My bill for everything has grown to $6500.
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Old 11-14-2005, 10:46 PM
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ballzoutstang875.0
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Default RE: short block

ok, sounds like u have a damn good setup. my origional plan was to just get new heads(trick flow) but i began thinking that since i was burning oil, there was no need for heads right now, my main concern should be to fix the bottom end! so the 347 stroker kit is a good idea huh? I would re-use the cam because it a performance cam anyway. the heads are fine too along with the water pump, timing chain, manifold and pulleys. theres no need to mess with the fuel system right? everythings fine with mine! now, if i were to get heads with this setup, which should I go with? that kit has everything that i want except for the heads and manifold.
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Old 11-14-2005, 11:44 PM
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Default RE: short block

Best to go with aluminum aftermarket heads of your choice/budget. I have Edelbrock heads with a port a polish job for the exhaust ports, bigger valve springs, and the entire Air/Fuel path was sanded smooth. You will want to go to bigger injectors if you are making more than 350 HP, 24# may work, I am using 30# and High pressure pump, bigger fuel lines, aeromotive rails, etc. The real nice thing about doing the bottom end right is that everything else can be dealt with later, without pulling the engine out. Oh, and be sure to consider a good oil pan, as they are worth about 15 horsepower, and they do an awesome job with keeping oil available for the pickup. 7 quart is the way to go on the fox. Remember that the bottom end on a stroker kit is going to make some great power for starters, more cubes the better, and the heads is where everything is flowed, and is the most important part in the end.
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