Hamutoff

go here now and read the whole article
(if you want to lower your car and then Drive spiritedly you should drop it with spindles)

http://www.miracerros.com/mustang/t_suspension.htm

imo the best way to cross the genres of road racing and draging gracefully and with out changing your setup each time is to 1)get adjustable struts. Don’t get the drag race specific adjustables, get reg adj that way they wont be jacked up for normal driving or road racing 2)keep your stock front springs, yeah sounds bad but they are still most likely good and they will work best for what you want because you should drop your car with 3)the drop spindles 4)rear end now that the front of your car is dropped about 2" (get NEW isolators) you need to adress the rear. Step 1=rear shocks = stock replacements for stock are fine for drag racing. Just get stock even lakewood "drag race" shocks are 50/50 so no big deal. If you really want to lower the rear to match or get it a bit closer, <sigh> cut one coil off each one, its cheaper, and you don’t want the rear too high when compared to the front when drag racing. The rear springs aren't AS critical as the front. 5)If you want it good get the currie or eldelbrock UPPER control arms for your rear end they pivot allowing the suspension to PROPERLY articulate for once…..

HACKGT350

i'd rather not do drop spindles i would get a k-member and coil over kit that way you can lower and raise it as you want.

Hamutoff

sure thats great for you but we are helping out what Shelty wants not you. he wants to do corner carving not just drag racing. also he mentioned cost, you could buy another 5.0 in various stages of beauty... for the cost of the system you propose. Most of the sets are a bit fragile, compartively and not for road racing many of them are made completely of chromemolly which is brittle, even if not, the a-arms do not have bushings that can last

HACKGT350

first off crome-moly is not brittle it is a very very strong mettle why do you think they make roll cages out of them. second for 600 bucks he can get a full upr k-member coil over kit. second most of these k-members are for circuit racing and auto cross every heard of a company called maximum motor sports? what do they make their stuff for? AUTOCROSS

primetime5.0

what would he want drop spindles when you could just buy lowering springs? $$ saved

HACKGT350

i was thinking about that too. why put the drop spindles in and keep the stock spings when you can upgrade your springs and drop it to a nice hight with something like eibach or ford racing. 2 inches also might be a little much

Hamutoff

well well sounds like you're a bit pissy...
...and you also dont know the difference between mild steel and chromemoly
Strength and Hardness these are two concepts you must understand. Chromemoly is very HARD it is strong too, but it IS brittle when compared to steel. You know Im just trying to give advice I am not trying to argue with you for the sake of it
no you are misleading. it is $699. (When is that $600??) Don’t forget that you also left out the rest; "UPR Reccomends the purchase of a bumpsteer kit with this product. Caster Camber plates are required for this product to fit correctly." You do not need either for the drop spindle method. your supposedly $600 is now $1200 + I have read plenty of complaints about the lacking of quality of UPR products (but never MM or RaceCraft)
this guy, well he didnt even bother to read my post..... lowering springs if you lower too much this way you cant road race or drag race you just ....try.... to look cool at that point that is pretty much all that you can do well
Fine. Im going to get corroborating evidence:



I searched Google.com using:
chromemoly mild steel brittle
these are the top few results, I copied and pasted them I did not otherwise alter the results, however I have never seen or read anything that said "chromemoly has greater fatigue strength than mild steel and will handle impact without shattering or breaking like mild steel does." Spend few minutes looking and you will see the same. So tell me what would do YOU want in your daily driver / mountain corner carver car?[]
("mountain" for emphesis, who would want their suspension breaking when driving up top a huge cliff??)
-----------------------
The roll cage's function is to protect the driver, period. It does a nice job of stiffening the chassis as well, but this is secondary to protection of the driver. A roll cage that will bend but not break is exactly what you want. To that point...NASCAR mandates that all roll-cage bars be built from DOM mild steel tubing....Chrome-moly is not allowed.
-------------------------
Also, chromoly becomes very brittle in the weld zone unless it is normalized correctly (mega-mega-$$$). I'm sticking with mild-steel in my car because it's FAR easier to build with and will BEND in the event of an impact instead of BREAKING as un-normalized chromoly would.
------------------------
Chrome moly is stronger but more brittle. In an impact it will actually snap easier than mild. It sounds cool to say Chrome-moly, but I would go with mild. I have mild steel cages in the road-race car and the rally car. Easier to fab too....
------------------------
simply put cromolly breaks and mild steel bends.

Hamutoff

Yes I have heard of MM before they are what I had in mind (since their kmember is strong) when I compared the complete front coil over conversion to buying another 5.0 Mustang! Well use them as the example since they were brought up, also they are accecptable for use on street and corner carving
650 k member
250 cc plates
350 control arms
370 coil over kit
struts for coil over kit
and I believe you have to have
150 bumpsteer kit
and at this point you'd get the
320 rear coil over
looks like you do not get the shock/struts with the kits, that would be $598.85 more
& Ill bet that Ive missed a few things.
===================
$2690





Aternatively

-----STR-S6001EM Strange Externally Adjustable Mustang Shocks Strut, Twin-Tube, Front, Ford, Mustang, Each $119.95 x 2
$240 new struts = Strange are fully adjustable and one of the best out there
$500 for the drop spindles (they have a reputation for being very strong)
$0 keep stock front springs = free
$0 cut rear springs = free or $3-5 for a blade for your cutting tool
-----LAK-40301 Lakewood Drag Shocks Shock, 50/ 50, Rear, Each$46.39
$93 for lakewood drag rear shocks (50/50 will work good drag or street or track)
==================
$833 not free but you can hammer the crap out of it and it will last. You could also get the new ford racing a-arms they have the updated bushings and such, and they do wear out after a hard life of 100,000+ miles


so MM = $2700
drop spindle method = $833 (YOU CAN SAVE $70 BY GETTING AUTO STORE REAR SHOCKS)

If you get new poly spring isolators that will raise the car back up 1/4" or so SO 1 3/4" DROP
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^
In all seriousness; primetime5.0 & HACKGT350:
I strongly recommend reading this site, it points out the very serious flaws in the Fox Mustang's geometry.
http://www.miracerros.com/mustang/t_suspension.htm

Shelty

thanks for the info guys, I like tubular K members, only the price is inhibiting me, as it would be with the drop spindles, and 2 inches is a bit much for where I live.

I I'm gonna research into exactly what I want, as I wont beable to afford stuff till the summer when I can work full time again....