shorties or stockers?
#1
shorties or stockers?
My car has stock e7 heads on it. Eventually, when I upgrade the heads (or see some with a bung for a wideband already welded in) , I am going to get a set of long tubes. Should I just keep the stock headers on it? I don't really see how a set of aftermarket shorties could help me that much. Am I wrong?
There is a guy around here that has a set for 100 bucks but, I couldn't bring myself to buy them knowing I would change them out in a few months. My exhaust gasket is going to be replaced though since it is leaking.
There is a guy around here that has a set for 100 bucks but, I couldn't bring myself to buy them knowing I would change them out in a few months. My exhaust gasket is going to be replaced though since it is leaking.
#2
I didn't notice any power when I put shorties on my hurtin' stock 5.0... then again it was hurtin'. They were also heat soaking my engine bay. They were cheap and had bolt fitment issues and forced you to run elbowed spark plug wires. You get what you pay for. They were ceramic coated BTW.
What do you mean a bung for the wideband welded in? You mean the o2 sensors? Longtubes have the sensors in them, shorties have the sensors in the H-pipe.
What do you mean a bung for the wideband welded in? You mean the o2 sensors? Longtubes have the sensors in them, shorties have the sensors in the H-pipe.
#3
I have a Zetronix wideband...I have the bungs to be welded in but, would prefer just to buy a used set of headers with the bung already in them. I also have a egt sensor with the wideband that I don't think I will really need but, will get it put in if I have the bungs welded.
I guess I could wrap the stockers in thermal wrap like the turbo guys use?
I guess I could wrap the stockers in thermal wrap like the turbo guys use?
#4
Wrapping the stockers is a complete waste of money. The cast iron heads don't really radiate enough heat. And the tape costs $50 for 50' if it's the good stuff. I went through 100' on my long tube headers, 50' per header.
If you ever get ceramic coated headers, do not wrap them for it will heat soak the ceramic and it will deteriorate. They also trap in moisture which will cause corrosion after the ceramic starts deteriorating.
Leave the stockers alone until you are ready for a good set of headers.
If you ever get ceramic coated headers, do not wrap them for it will heat soak the ceramic and it will deteriorate. They also trap in moisture which will cause corrosion after the ceramic starts deteriorating.
Leave the stockers alone until you are ready for a good set of headers.
#5
Last edited by TrimDrip; 08-14-2009 at 04:41 PM.
#6
Considering the F/I part, I would upgrade your headers. Even an EL-cheapo pair of shorties will work fine. If you were stock, I would feel reserved about doing the headers, but with the Kennebell, that motor needs to breathe. I used the Summit brand shorty headers for $100 on my stock GT. It fit good and for $100, It was worth a shot.
#7
i noticed a difference with BBK shortie's. nothing huge, but defently more mid-range power.
Temp's on the OEM header's where around 600-650* right after killing the car from light driving. The ceramic coated header's with the same driving only get up to 450-475*
my engine bay alway's seem's hot as hell to me. the but temp gun does not lie.
Temp's on the OEM header's where around 600-650* right after killing the car from light driving. The ceramic coated header's with the same driving only get up to 450-475*
my engine bay alway's seem's hot as hell to me. the but temp gun does not lie.
#8
i hate when people say this. the pipes you are rapping are hundreds of degrees hot, you dont think any moisture that may be in there will get burned up in the first second or two of the motor running. i spill oil on my header warp all the time and even that burns off so i know water would.
#9
I have also been debating on whether or not to spend the $120 on Brothers Performance headers to ditch the stock EFI's. It would probably help my gt40s breathe better, especially with the cam I bought.