You could start from a fresh memory dump. Remove both battery cables. Touch the cables together for about 10 seconds. This will empty the capacitors in the computer. I want to be sure I have made myself clear. When you touch the cables together, they should be NO where near the battery. Sorry, can't assume you would know this. No insult intended.

When you reattach the cables, the computer will be starting from the default program. Your motor will run a little bit rough for a few minutes while it 'learns' again. Let it idle. Don't rev it up at all. This is important so the computer will 'see' the sensors at idle, without outside influences. Check for new codes. Your EGR codes should re-appear. Hopefully, the TPS and ACT and ECT wont.

 

K, computer reset not more TP code, now has code 11 "system pass"

Sounds much better now, car just wont idle for man that 20 seconds before it dies. Still waiting on egr delete, hope this fixes it.

Thanks for all your help, its been very helpful.

 

You idle speed could be set too low. I am confused why you would get a code 11 when your egr stuff is not there and you don't have the delete harness installed. Did you pull codes too soon? By that I mean, did you not give the computer enough time to relearn? And, you could need to set your timing differently. Is it stock? There are many variables to account for as you well know.

My car had a hot restart problem. It would start fine but then would lose rpms and die after about 10 seconds. Once I nursed it out onto the road, it would run fine after a minute or two. I raised the idle a bit and that seemed to have taken care of the problem.

Make sure your IAC is clean.

http://mustangefiswap.blogspot.com/

 

you need to do a base idle reset then go drive the car for a 20-30 min

 

Egr delete today, installed, still getting code 84. Confused as to why the delete did not clear the code. The solenoid was snipped out of the harness, could it be that because that is gone the egr plugin delete does not work? What kind of voltage should be running across the solenoid? i could just splice the two back together and give the other wire 12v... or is there a resistor i can put between the two? dont really feel like just testing it and toasting my computer

code changes:
no more code 11
new codes 41, 91
still getting codes 81,82,84,85

o2 sensor stuff... car probably needs to be taken out and driven to clear that up. I would like to get rid of the other two codes before i take it out.

Hard to start when warm is gone

stall problem may be solved, will update tomorrow.

 

Your codes 41 and 91 say you are lean. This could be your O2 sensor OR you could have a vacuum leak. I thought I had my car tight as far as vacuum leaks go. I took it to the shop and had them put a smoker machine on it. I had FOUR leaks. Once those were plugged up, the car ran much better. I used a few of the old vacuum hoses from the donor car and they were dried up, so they leaked. Also, my EGR cover plate I made leaked.

My mechanic said my right O2 sensor was switching slow as well. At my next service interval, I am going to replace both O2 sensors. I found them at NAPA for under $50 each.

Don't worry about those EGR codes. Are you running an automatic? Is it the one that came from the donor car? If so, you should trace code 85. Otherwise, if it is running well after you check for vacuum leaks, you should be golden.

mjr46 makes a good point about the base idle reset as well. It is good to start from a known good setup. It takes another variable out of the equation.

 

manual trans. might have a leak at the egr blockoff since thats the only thing i have changed and then the car threw the codes.

more updates tonight

 

found the cold start stall problem. When my FPR is hooked up to vacuum it stalls the car when cold. If its not hooked up to vacuum the car doesnt stall. Its hooked up to one of the small vacuum spots on the back side of the intake, any suggestions as to what i should do?

 

I do not know how the FPR works so I can't comment on why that would happen. I assume there is a diaphram in there but I don't know the actual mechanics of the part.

I could guess as to why it does that but it won't be any better than you guessing.

 

No prob, ill start a post about it and see what i can get. Thanks for all your help and guidance!