Maxon

89 5.0 efi in 65 mustang.

Many parts removed from the original 89 setup along with snipped and ended electrical wires.

Car runs rough and when warm will only full throttle start. (this started after i snipped out the egr regulator circuit.

Here are my codes,

22 - BP sensor out of self test range
(just found out i had unplugged this and didnt plug it back in! Duh move, rescanning to see if it clears///didnt clear but i didnt expect it to.. havnt started the car again will do that tomorrow. My guess is that runability will go back up and i will not have to WOT start when warm)
35 - PFE or EVP circuit above maximum voltage

51 - ECT/ACT reads 40deg F or circuit open

53 - TP circuit above maximum voltage

54 - ACT sensor circuit open

67 - Clutch switch circuit failure

81 - Air management 2 circuit failure

82 - Air management 1 circuit failure

84 - egr vacuum solenoid circuit failure/regulator circuit failure
(egr plugin on order, will this fix both of these 84 codes?)
85 - canister purge circuit failure/solenoid circuit failure

So where do i start/what do i do to eliminate these so my car runs correctly? I want the least amount of extra crap on this thing. Is there a tuner that can delete most of this stuff? i dont wanna put this crap back on.

Thanks

MustangBradley

I had a similar problem with my 95 gt motor in my 65. I cut the EGR out as well. When I was troubleshooting my rought idle and tough start, I started with the TPS. I had zero reference voltage. So I went to my wiring diagram to trace the circuit. The EGR and the TPS share the reference voltage feed circuit (at least on the 95). So when I cut the EGR out, I also cut my TPS out. I cut open the harness and spliced the wires together and it started and idled fine. So, after this book I wrote, check your voltages at the TPS. You do have a wiring diagram don't you?

http://mustangefiswap.blogspot.com/

MustangBradley

Oh, and those circuits that read "open" are probably lacking their reference voltage feeds as well. You probably cut those accidently. Check you diagram.

Maxon

Okay i will check the tps and act voltage. I do have a wiring diagram. more suggestions is great.... ty for your input

Maxon

Tps is getting 4.5+ on 2 legs, ACT is geting 5.4 on both pins. Not sure if the act should have voltage on both pins any idea?

Would my egr vac reg sol. make this thing idle high/rough when cut out and with the egr still connected? i have not recieved my egr delete kit yet.

Maxon

22 code gone now, car idles high and when warm still will not start unless i do a wot start.

Maxon

I know its possible to delete all the vacuum lines to the egr solenoid but is it possible to cut out the egr vacuum solenoid from the harness without causing run-ability problems?

MustangBradley

I am not home so I don't have access to my diagram. You can completely remove the egr without problem. Just don't cut other stuff out accidently like I explained in the above post. My car has no smog or EGR. Runs fine.

As to those voltages, you should have 5v reference voltage, not 4.5. Find the TPS signal wire into the computer and run an ohm check from that wire at the computer to the tps plug. You should have no resistance. essentially zero ohms. You are losing .5 volts somewhere. I don't remember how the IAC relates info to the computer. But 5.4 volts is probably too high. Is your multimeter good?

Also, be careful about vacuum leaks. I had a few that had a big effect on my idle.

http://mustangefiswap.blogspot.com/

MustangBradley

I am unaware about codes 81 and 82. Sorry.

35, 84 and 85 are no big deal. They are EGR or Evaporative canister. I have the equivalent codes on my car and it runs fine.

51,53 and 54 are easy to trace with your diagram. They are important to idling. Double check that they get 5v reference and that their signal wires back to the computer have continuity. Don't assume your sensors are bad until you are sure you have it wired right.

Maxon

code 51/54 gone after disconnecting battery, unplugging sensor harness and plugging back in. (maybe it will come back not sure)
no more wot start needed when warm
idle screw and tps configured at .98v wot 4.68v NO KOEO 53 code but still have 53 MEMORY CODE.. maybe its fixed?

idle is much better but still a bit erratic, eases up and down from 800-1000 and eventually stalls after 5 mins.

egr delete scheduled delivery is the 16th.

Think of any reason why i would still be getting the tps code? do i need to reset the computer a special way or anything?

Car doesnt sound that healthy through the pipes. pretty choppy like timing is off.. i should probably re-time it. A while back i had removed the valve cover and removed the roller+lifter to check the valve guide seal. I didnt know the correct specification when putting the roller back on and just tried to match the thread turns on what the others had... i should probably look into this again to make sure it is not to tight or not to loose. probably should change/clean the plugs when i get my egr delete and see what that clears up because the plugs are now fouled a bit due to the poor running conditions.