my first pony...
#1
my first pony...
So after man months of searching March 4th i picked up my first mustang, a Black 93 LX 5.0 5 speed with 113k on the clock. The car has a straight body and paint is semi faded so could use a new paint job soon (on my list). normal very very small amount of rust right inder the wing about the size of a dime if that. interior is immaculately clean, and the underside is very clean aswell. car has intake, bassani catted x pipe, flowmaster carback, and 3.73's.
Now heres the bad part. I bought the car and on the way home i opened it up for the first time, it runs pretty strong about what i though it would do speed wise. i got into it and noticed a rather large ploom of smoke out of the back of the car... got the the next light and the car smelled a bit of oil. so i cruised around for a bit that night and drove it to work the next day. after work i cleaned it (i work in detail at a ford dealership) and on my way out the check oil light came on... i went over to the quicklube and checked my oil, it was about a quart low. so i threw some in. the next day i went in and changed my oil which the prev owner said it was about time for a oil change. i put some lucas oil stabilizer in and hoped for the best. needless to say the car was still smoking under heavier acceleration. THE NEXT DAY while taking pictures of the car i went to start it and the check oil light came on again... another quart or so low. im pissed at this point. so i added oil. not to mention i replaced the tps sensor that day.
wed night 6 days after i got it that night i went out cruising and came across my first semi race. a 3000gt which got beat none the less but at a cost. i got on it at about 30 or so and started pulling ahead but the car felt weird, so going into 4th the car stumbled a bit and i let off and then all hell broke loose. it started missing very badly. i went home imedialtely to go into work and look at it the next day. hooked it up to the computer read it and found cyl 1 had 0 compression. took off the valve cover and found the valve clip had popped up slightly from the retainer and the exhaust valve had dropped down not closing all the way. fixed that put it all together and no the car still is missing but not nearly as bad and you can hear the valve tapping. one of the mechanics told me a deff have a bent valve.
I am going to take the heads off and send them out to get fixed/cleaned and new valve train put. but i dont know exactly what to put in it/what will or wont work with some stock parts. im on a strict budget due to spending all my money on the car which i had everything i wanted to do for a daily driver done to it. i wasnt really planning on doing this so soon but it needs to be done now.
as for replacements i was planning on going with a better then stock replacement but nothing crazy. basic for racing 1.6 rockers along with the basic ford racing push rods. trick flow springs retainers and clip kit. most likely stock valves. im posting links of the parts i am most likely getting and i would just like to know is i need anything more then what i posted up.
Thanks in advance for any help!
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...all-Block-Ford
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...dened-Pushrods
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...gs-Upgrade-Kit
Now heres the bad part. I bought the car and on the way home i opened it up for the first time, it runs pretty strong about what i though it would do speed wise. i got into it and noticed a rather large ploom of smoke out of the back of the car... got the the next light and the car smelled a bit of oil. so i cruised around for a bit that night and drove it to work the next day. after work i cleaned it (i work in detail at a ford dealership) and on my way out the check oil light came on... i went over to the quicklube and checked my oil, it was about a quart low. so i threw some in. the next day i went in and changed my oil which the prev owner said it was about time for a oil change. i put some lucas oil stabilizer in and hoped for the best. needless to say the car was still smoking under heavier acceleration. THE NEXT DAY while taking pictures of the car i went to start it and the check oil light came on again... another quart or so low. im pissed at this point. so i added oil. not to mention i replaced the tps sensor that day.
wed night 6 days after i got it that night i went out cruising and came across my first semi race. a 3000gt which got beat none the less but at a cost. i got on it at about 30 or so and started pulling ahead but the car felt weird, so going into 4th the car stumbled a bit and i let off and then all hell broke loose. it started missing very badly. i went home imedialtely to go into work and look at it the next day. hooked it up to the computer read it and found cyl 1 had 0 compression. took off the valve cover and found the valve clip had popped up slightly from the retainer and the exhaust valve had dropped down not closing all the way. fixed that put it all together and no the car still is missing but not nearly as bad and you can hear the valve tapping. one of the mechanics told me a deff have a bent valve.
I am going to take the heads off and send them out to get fixed/cleaned and new valve train put. but i dont know exactly what to put in it/what will or wont work with some stock parts. im on a strict budget due to spending all my money on the car which i had everything i wanted to do for a daily driver done to it. i wasnt really planning on doing this so soon but it needs to be done now.
as for replacements i was planning on going with a better then stock replacement but nothing crazy. basic for racing 1.6 rockers along with the basic ford racing push rods. trick flow springs retainers and clip kit. most likely stock valves. im posting links of the parts i am most likely getting and i would just like to know is i need anything more then what i posted up.
Thanks in advance for any help!
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...all-Block-Ford
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...dened-Pushrods
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...gs-Upgrade-Kit
#3
yeah i could do that. i just wanted to kinda replace it with new stuff on the refurbished heads. are the gt40 heads new or used for that price? i have seen them online but they say gt40x or p idk if they are the same thing. at this point im just not sure what to do with replacing them with another set of heads.
#5
gt40x are aluminum and flow better than regular gt40 iron heads
gt40y heads are the same as the irons but are aluminum
gt40p heads are iron and have a different spark plug position than the regular gt40 irons and require special headers
gt40 iron heads are the same as what came on the 93 cobra
gt40y heads are the same as the irons but are aluminum
gt40p heads are iron and have a different spark plug position than the regular gt40 irons and require special headers
gt40 iron heads are the same as what came on the 93 cobra
#6
I know you mentioned that you were on a tight budget but if the heads must come off for a repair. You should just replace them with an out of the box aluminum head.
You could spend $500.00 fixing a stock head. If the day ever came. They'd be worth about $5.00. Spend $900 on Edelbrocks or something and they would still fetch almost that much used. Not even going to mention the power gain.
You could spend $500.00 fixing a stock head. If the day ever came. They'd be worth about $5.00. Spend $900 on Edelbrocks or something and they would still fetch almost that much used. Not even going to mention the power gain.
#8
yeah but if i got edelbrock aluminum heads wouldnt i have to up the injectors to say 24lbs injectors and get a better flowing intake manifold to see any REAL gains? not to mention buying the whole valve train to go with the heads?
#10
i used my stock push rods with my gt40x heads. they were the right size for my setup.
but if you go stud mount rockers u will have to measure for correct length. but you prob should measure anyway
but if you go stud mount rockers u will have to measure for correct length. but you prob should measure anyway
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