Friggin eagle crank!
Some of you might have read my high compression build thread a couple days ago...
Anyway I tore the shortblock for my engine apart last nice bc I have another brand new 5.0 block that I am transferring my eagle/keith black rotating assembly/main girdle/windage tray to due a deep chip in the old block's cylinder wall...upon disassembly the eagle crank showed some scoring on a couple of the main journals, not enough to catch fingernail but visually evident. I am wondering if this was caused by a twisted rod? I bought some gt40 heads from a "friend" and it turned out the springs were junk (which I should of tested) and I dropped a valve, That cylinder twisted the eagle sir rod and I only left car running for maybe a minute at the most afterward. I'm sure this had something to do with the scoring on the cast eagle crank...my question is would I be better off turning the crank ten or polishing first? I am not sure what route I should go?
Also on a side note...a couple of the rod bearings had been worn down to the copper only on the extreme edges of the bearing...I ran sealed power bearings, should I have run clevites because of the aftermarket eagle crank and rods?
Thanks for the help guys...
Anyway I tore the shortblock for my engine apart last nice bc I have another brand new 5.0 block that I am transferring my eagle/keith black rotating assembly/main girdle/windage tray to due a deep chip in the old block's cylinder wall...upon disassembly the eagle crank showed some scoring on a couple of the main journals, not enough to catch fingernail but visually evident. I am wondering if this was caused by a twisted rod? I bought some gt40 heads from a "friend" and it turned out the springs were junk (which I should of tested) and I dropped a valve, That cylinder twisted the eagle sir rod and I only left car running for maybe a minute at the most afterward. I'm sure this had something to do with the scoring on the cast eagle crank...my question is would I be better off turning the crank ten or polishing first? I am not sure what route I should go?
Also on a side note...a couple of the rod bearings had been worn down to the copper only on the extreme edges of the bearing...I ran sealed power bearings, should I have run clevites because of the aftermarket eagle crank and rods?
Thanks for the help guys...
take the crank to a machine shop and have it checked for out of roundness and taper, they will tell you where you need to go from there and if you plan to transfer that girdle to the other block you need to have the block taken to the machine shop with the girdle and have it line honed and or checked with the girdle all torqued down, that was my mistake when I switched from a bolt on stud girdle to a dss studded main cap/ girdle set up, if you don't, risk taking the mains out.
Last edited by mjr46; Jan 29, 2012 at 07:57 PM.
I'd do what MJR posted unless you have the mic's to do it yourself.
I've only had 1 Eagle crank in my life and it needed work in a couple of spots before I cou;ld use it. It happens.
Yep, align hone even on a new block.
I would use the studs also....
Girdle, IDK.
I've only had 1 Eagle crank in my life and it needed work in a couple of spots before I cou;ld use it. It happens.
Yep, align hone even on a new block.
I would use the studs also....
Girdle, IDK.
Oh I forgot to ask but when I mic the journals in order to check main oil clearance where to I measure? Just in the center of the journal or should I take measurement of the extremes of the journal as well? I know to dial bore guage the bearings torqued in the mains at the center and far sides of the bearing to check for taper...
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