What would be the proper technique to get the "cross hatching" on a cylinder hone? It got pretty humid here the past couple days and i found light surface rust on the cylinder walls and deck. Ive gotten rid of the rust, but want to make sure i get the cross hatch for oil control. Any tips?

 

Machine shop or DON'T TOUCH IT!!!

Now that the rust is gone (I hope with the least aggressive method possible), if you're planning to have the heads off for long get some white lithium spray grease and COAT the deck and cylinders with it. It will stay rust free for a nice long time that way. Clean up is laquer thinner w/soft rag... I also go over the deck with PPG DX-330 "Acryliclean" (it's what body shops use to clean before paint) because I'm hyper ****...

$0.02

 

I soaked all exposed metal in oil afterwards. That still doesn't explain how to get the cross hatch correctly.

 

I thought I explained it thoroughly... TAKE THE BLOCK TO A MACHINE SHOP!

If you want to screw around with hand drill and ball hone, have at it... You're going to see at least a 20psi drop on those cylinders vs. the others vs. leaving it alone!!!

 

Low speed 1/2" drill and a 3 stone hone is how I've always done it.
All I can say about the cross hatch is that it will take practice.
Also a good idea to have a helper squirt a mix (50-50) of something like kerosene/trans fuid in the cylinder while you are honing it so it's being lubed as well as washed while you are working it.
This should be done while the block is totally empty and out of the car, on a stand.

 

Cool, thats how i did it. Low speed and really quick repititions. They look good. Do they need to be exactly 45* ?

 

No, I don't think the cross hatch pattern needs to be exactly 45, in fact I've seen it in writing someplace that the pattern can be 45-60 degrees.
What you are doing is finishing metal, not changing the size.....

 

^ mine is in between that ballpark. I thought I had read it somewhere but wanted to verify it