First Oil Change
#11
Clutch pedal is sticking at high rpm and has the same symptoms as an overcentering clutch. The Engineer that designed the clutch believes its a combination of tolerance stackup and an overly strong spring (designed to make the clutch pedal effort lower) in the pedal assembly. The clutch fingers come close enough to the center of the diaphragm spring at high rpm with the pedal close to the floor to allow the clutch pedal spring to overcome it and the pedal gets sucked to the floor until rpm drops.
They are replacing the entire clutch assembly including new design pedal assembly, slave cylinder, pressure plate, clutch disc and possibly the flywheel. Just in case their is some motion that shouldnt be their with the trans input shaft (It only occurs when in gear) I felt I wanted to leave it factory sealed.
Im waiting on the actual clutch / pressure plate assembly as all the other parts including the new design pedal assembly from engineering are already here.
That reminds me I need to check the status of that clutch kit.
They are replacing the entire clutch assembly including new design pedal assembly, slave cylinder, pressure plate, clutch disc and possibly the flywheel. Just in case their is some motion that shouldnt be their with the trans input shaft (It only occurs when in gear) I felt I wanted to leave it factory sealed.
Im waiting on the actual clutch / pressure plate assembly as all the other parts including the new design pedal assembly from engineering are already here.
That reminds me I need to check the status of that clutch kit.
#12
Clutch pedal is sticking at high rpm and has the same symptoms as an overcentering clutch. The Engineer that designed the clutch believes its a combination of tolerance stackup and an overly strong spring (designed to make the clutch pedal effort lower) in the pedal assembly. The clutch fingers come close enough to the center of the diaphragm spring at high rpm with the pedal close to the floor to allow the clutch pedal spring to overcome it and the pedal gets sucked to the floor until rpm drops.
They are replacing the entire clutch assembly including new design pedal assembly, slave cylinder, pressure plate, clutch disc and possibly the flywheel. Just in case their is some motion that shouldnt be their with the trans input shaft (It only occurs when in gear) I felt I wanted to leave it factory sealed.
Im waiting on the actual clutch / pressure plate assembly as all the other parts including the new design pedal assembly from engineering are already here.
That reminds me I need to check the status of that clutch kit.
They are replacing the entire clutch assembly including new design pedal assembly, slave cylinder, pressure plate, clutch disc and possibly the flywheel. Just in case their is some motion that shouldnt be their with the trans input shaft (It only occurs when in gear) I felt I wanted to leave it factory sealed.
Im waiting on the actual clutch / pressure plate assembly as all the other parts including the new design pedal assembly from engineering are already here.
That reminds me I need to check the status of that clutch kit.
Interesting, have not heard that from any reports yet.
But again, just another reason why I decided to wait a few months before I ordered my 11 GT, to get "bugs" like that worked out before I take delivery.
Glad to hear they have the new assemblies in already.
Should mean cars that are being built now or soon to be built will have the new and improved assemblies in them from the factory.
Thanks again Gene
#13
Interesting, have not heard that from any reports yet.
But again, just another reason why I decided to wait a few months before I ordered my 11 GT, to get "bugs" like that worked out before I take delivery.
Glad to hear they have the new assemblies in already.
Should mean cars that are being built now or soon to be built will have the new and improved assemblies in them from the factory.
Thanks again Gene
But again, just another reason why I decided to wait a few months before I ordered my 11 GT, to get "bugs" like that worked out before I take delivery.
Glad to hear they have the new assemblies in already.
Should mean cars that are being built now or soon to be built will have the new and improved assemblies in them from the factory.
Thanks again Gene
Last edited by Gene K; 06-16-2010 at 08:19 AM.
#14
I just broke 3K miles on my car, and I intend to do a first oil change (I have the factory stock Motorcraft 5W20 in it).
Ford recommends that I do not need to until 7.5K-10K miles, but I want to do so now to get out any possible break-in materials that might be collecting in the engine.
Should I also have them do a tranny fluid change too? My car is not an auto, it is the MT82 manual.
Ford recommends that I do not need to until 7.5K-10K miles, but I want to do so now to get out any possible break-in materials that might be collecting in the engine.
Should I also have them do a tranny fluid change too? My car is not an auto, it is the MT82 manual.
#16
Finally went and got a first oil change at 3K miles. They put in Motorcraft full synth (yeah right, we all know it is not true full synth).
The techs said the oil is good for about 7500-10000 miles before change. But wouldnt you believe, that for the next oil change, reminder sticker they put on my windshield, it said I need to come it at another 3K miles! WTF is that? Morons if you ask me.
The techs said the oil is good for about 7500-10000 miles before change. But wouldnt you believe, that for the next oil change, reminder sticker they put on my windshield, it said I need to come it at another 3K miles! WTF is that? Morons if you ask me.
#17
Correct me if I'm wrong, but If you hydrocrack a base oil enough, will you get fully synthetic molecules? Why would Motorcraft's Full Synthetic not be? I do know its made from Group lll base stock supplied by Conoco-Philips.
Here is the specs on it btw, Specs. They are also using Boron as a anti-wear agent instead of ZDDP; apparently this is the case with all their latest motor oils.
Problem is its hard to find around town if the dealers don't have it handy, and I've always seen it a good prices.
Here is the specs on it btw, Specs. They are also using Boron as a anti-wear agent instead of ZDDP; apparently this is the case with all their latest motor oils.
Problem is its hard to find around town if the dealers don't have it handy, and I've always seen it a good prices.
Last edited by cjs06; 10-26-2010 at 06:36 AM.
#18
I will have to read much more on it in the Oil section, but it is my understanding that true synth lubes are group IV and group IV are superior to even dino that has been cooked and cooked and cooked into group III.
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