Anything else i need for hook up?
Ok guys, I have the 10" 4 ohm kicker L5 in a slot ported box wired for 2 ohm, a sony Xplod d9001GTR Mono amp, and a kicker PK4 amplifier wiring kit. What else do i need to hook up my sub system? just the line converter? Any guidelines or tips for hooking this up? Thanks guys for all your help along the way! Joey B
Gonna need a remote wire, some speaker wire, RCA cables. 4 awg rings terminals, a side post battery extension terminal,and maybe a firewall gromet.. Soldering iron and solder to tin the naked leads (or some connector ends).
I like to run a small fuse inline with my remote to protect the head unit and ease removing the aftermarket harness later. See what the max draw allowable on your remote is and get an according fuse/holder. Most are 0.1A. Radioshack has the holders for about $3.
I also like to fuse at the battery and the amp to protect the interior of the car from burning down if something should go wrong (the wire can get hot enough to burn before the fuse can react). Plus I own amps that have no internal fuses. Cheap stinger fuse holder and fuse should be about $15.
Combined, about another $50 and you'll be dialed. Not sure what "direct connect engineering" means, so you may not need the 4 awg ring terminals or battery terminals. I'd have to see what the kit looks like out of the package to tell ya.
Edit: You said line converter... If you're running the stock head this could all change...
I like to run a small fuse inline with my remote to protect the head unit and ease removing the aftermarket harness later. See what the max draw allowable on your remote is and get an according fuse/holder. Most are 0.1A. Radioshack has the holders for about $3.
I also like to fuse at the battery and the amp to protect the interior of the car from burning down if something should go wrong (the wire can get hot enough to burn before the fuse can react). Plus I own amps that have no internal fuses. Cheap stinger fuse holder and fuse should be about $15.
Combined, about another $50 and you'll be dialed. Not sure what "direct connect engineering" means, so you may not need the 4 awg ring terminals or battery terminals. I'd have to see what the kit looks like out of the package to tell ya.
Edit: You said line converter... If you're running the stock head this could all change...
This is what the kits will come with-
[*]4 Gauge Single Amplifier Power Kit[*]Up to 1000W RMS, 2000W Peak[*]Hyper-Flex Power Cable[*]20' - 4 AWG Power Cable with under-hood braid[*]3' - 4 AWG Ground Cable[*]20' - 16 AWG Turn-on Lead[*]FHMA Fuse Holder[*]100A ANL System Fuse[*]Self-Adhesive Kicker Logo Badge Included[*]Brand New Factory Sealed
Sounds like everything you guys said is included except for the speaker wire, RCAs and loc. I have speaker wire that will run from the amp to the sub if thats what you are speaking of and RCA's for the LOC to the amp.
If that's it I appreciate all your help guys!
[*]4 Gauge Single Amplifier Power Kit[*]Up to 1000W RMS, 2000W Peak[*]Hyper-Flex Power Cable[*]20' - 4 AWG Power Cable with under-hood braid[*]3' - 4 AWG Ground Cable[*]20' - 16 AWG Turn-on Lead[*]FHMA Fuse Holder[*]100A ANL System Fuse[*]Self-Adhesive Kicker Logo Badge Included[*]Brand New Factory Sealed
Sounds like everything you guys said is included except for the speaker wire, RCAs and loc. I have speaker wire that will run from the amp to the sub if thats what you are speaking of and RCA's for the LOC to the amp.
If that's it I appreciate all your help guys!
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