Yeah right!

MRP-M850

Mono Power Amplifier




CEA-2006 Power Rating
CEA-2006 Power Rating (40hm@14.4V = 1%THD+N), S/N 100dBA (Ref. 1W into 4Ohm):
500W x 1

RMS Power (at 14.4V THD+N, 20Hz-200Hz)
Per channel into 4 ohms: 500W x 1 (0.08% THD)
Per channel into 2 ohms: 800W x 1


This is Alpines biggest amp, if an online store told you this thing is 1800 watts they lied to you. And it says no where on the spec sheet that it's 1 ohm stable. So if this is the amp you got I would cross your fingers for anything near or over 800 watts from this.

 

PWNED!

 

Lando,

You could have done soooo much better for the money, but if you install it right it has the possibility to be a decent install.

Keep us posted on the progress.

 

Actually i am right, thats not the amp i bought.

MRD-M1005: http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=14926

1800 Watt Max Power
1000W x 1 RMS (2ohm, 14.4V, 1% THD=N)

i do actually know what im talking about here guys

 

Features


[ul][*]Mono subwoofer car amplifier[*]500W x 1 RMS (4ohm, 12.0V, 1% THD+N)[*]700W x 1 RMS (2ohm, 12.0V, 1% THD+N)[*]700W x 1 RMS (4ohm, 14.4V, 1% THD+N)[*]1.000W x 1 RMS (2ohm, 14.4V, 1% THD+N)[*]Max. 1.800W x 1[*]S/N Ratio 90dBA[*]Internal, variable-speed cooling fan[*]Amp Link for single-cable hookup to compatible Alpine receivers[*]STAR Topology for cleaner sound[*]Bass Engine® features:
[ul][*]Low-pass digital filter, 30-200 Hz, with a selectable 12 or 24 dB/octave slope[*]Selectable subsonic filter (off, 15Hz, or 30 Hz)[*]Parametric EQ variable from 30-160 Hz, ±12 dB[*]Bass Compensator enhances low-end definition [/ul][*]Top-mounted digital control center with cover[*]CEA-2006 Compliant[*]MOSFET power supply and output stages[*]Preamp outputs[*]Time correction 0-10 milliseconds in 0.1ms steps[*]Phase adjustment 0-180[*]Turn-on delay[*]Requires 4-gauge power and ground leads and 80 amp fuse[*]Extra-large terminals[*]Fuse rating: 20A x 4[*]Dimensions: 13"W x 2-5/16"H x 8-11/16"D [/ul]

Still dont see where it says 1800 watts at 1 ohm and that it's 1 ohm stable.

On Crutchfield




RMS Power Output (Watts x Channels)
700 x 1
1000 x 1

Frequency Response
20-200 Hz
20-200 Hz

THD at Rated RMS Power
1%
1%

Signal to Noise Ratio
65 dB
80 dB

Input Voltage
14.4v
14.4v

Peak Power Output (Watts x Channels)
N/A
N/A

Power at 2 Ohms (Watts x Channels)
1000 x 1
1000 x 1

Bridged Power (Watts x Channels)
N/A
N/A

Minimum Impedance Bridged
N/A
N/A

Minimum Impedance Unbridged
2

Minimum impedance 2 Ohm. You shouldn't be allowed to say an amp can do something if it physically cannot. Sucks that the people your buying that from are posting things like that.

 

That is a 700 watt rms amp. Not 1800 watts. The mazimum power or the output at 14.4 V is not an acceptable way to rate power. Most cars don't make 14.4.

 

i never said it was an 1800 watts rms amp. max 1800, 1000 rms at 2 ohm is what i said but you interpreted it wrong...... i have a type r that is 2 ohms therefore ill be hitting at or around 1000 because i have a 14.4V

 

Your amps don't "hit."

 

He is trying to learn hiss, someone told him the wrong terminology.

When someone states the power output of thier amp, they should ALWAYS mention the rms power. Peak power doesn't mean squat.

As hiss stated your amp doesn't hit. If anything hits its your subs, but that is very poor terminology. If your amp hits, I would interprete that as saying your amp is being hit by your sub as the sub moves back and forth.

Your amp provides an AC signal which the magnetic field in your speaker magnet reacts to to produce noice. The noise is played at a given frequncy and sometimes it sounds like music.

That amp is a good starting point, you could have done much better on the sub, but we can build the rest of the system around the parts you already purchased. I really think a sub should be the last thing to add to a system. It plays the lowest range of frequency and in general can only supplement a quality front stage. I might not have even bought my sub and amp combo, if I had I put a really nice front stage in first.

 

I've got a quick question on my car's voltage... My voltmeter reads around 14+V, but I've read at many places that most cars don't run at 14.4V. So is my car a freak, or is my guage wrong? I know it would be hard to tell, but I've always wondered about this. When I crank my stereo, it will drop down to 11 and lower, which I understand because I haven't even done the big 3 yet. But under normal circumstances, could it really make 14V?