Help an old man--please
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 6
Help an old man--please
I bought an02 stang for my son, he would like a "system". This system will be built over time as he doesnt have the funds to complete it all at once. The goal is to build quality sound not just loud.(not show quality) Starting w/ the factory h/u & speakers, what would be the 1st replacement/addition to progressively build this system?
Thanks
Thanks
5th Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,447
From:
RE: Help an old man--please
The first place to start is logically the HU. It is the source for all the other components.
I personally would replace the HU and add an amp and front components, Rear full range speakers serve no purpose in quality car audio and high quality fronts will still get louder then hell with proper amplification. After the mids and highs are complete a single 10" or 12" woofer is more then enough to provide a lot of bass.
What is your budget, what type of music does your son listen too.
I personally would replace the HU and add an amp and front components, Rear full range speakers serve no purpose in quality car audio and high quality fronts will still get louder then hell with proper amplification. After the mids and highs are complete a single 10" or 12" woofer is more then enough to provide a lot of bass.
What is your budget, what type of music does your son listen too.
1st Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 67
RE: Help an old man--please
I think a good progressive system would be as follows - but feel free to adjust as see fit:
1. Start with a quality head unit that meets all the requirements that are asked for - MP3 compatibility, ipod jack, removable faceplate, etc. Only the end user can identify what will be needed.
2. When I was big into car audio, a component set of speakers (4"- 6.5" woofer with seperate tweeter) were considered the ideal front setup for most car stereo systems. Decent flexibilty and ability to aim the tweeter will help out with sound quality. Rear speakers may/may not be desired in his setup - that is something he will have to decide. I personally like having rear speakers, as do my passengers. Subwoffers, agreed with PReal, a single 10" or 12" sub will provide more than enough low-end. Not ever sure if center-channel speakers are used anymore in competitions, but they were used when I was into stereos to provide good "imaging" - the center channel was usually a single speaker, placed in the middle of the dashboard near the windshield.
3. Good wiring. You dont have to go the most expensive route, but get the correct size wires you need. Also, take your time in layout the wires down. Keep the RCA cables away from the power cable.
4. Amplifiers - I think there are a lot of factors here. I personally like the ones with internal crossovers (function that lets you decide what sound signals to send to which speakers - ie.: Filtering out the low signals to smaller speakers becuase they cant handle low signals (bass) at high volumes - thats what subwoofers are for.). How many amps does he want? There are 2 channel amps, 4 channel amps, 6 channel amps etc. I would go with a reputable brand, and you can consult your local car stereo shop on which they recommend (they will most likely point in the $$$$ department, but you can get what your looking for, for not a lot of cash). Power rating, be carefull not to send to much or to little power (RMS watts) to your speakers.
Many different factors to decide. I am currently starting to put together a radio setup in my 97, and I will end up starting with a good head unit first and formost. Afterwhich, during a weekend, I plan on installing the speakers, wiring, and amps to my system all at once so I dont have to dilly-dally a month or two down the road. I will 100% install myself, just because I enjoy it and I dont want to pay the $$$ to have someone else do it. Hope this helps.
PS - if he is lookign for good quality sound, I would go as follows:
1. Head unit running stock speakers untill more $$$ is availbe.
2. Upgrade speakers to a co-axle type (2-way speakers with woofer and tweeter)
3. Decide on Subwoofer(s)
4. Purchase wiring, and amp(s) to power the interior speakers and trunk subwoofer(2)
5. Install and enjoy.
1. Start with a quality head unit that meets all the requirements that are asked for - MP3 compatibility, ipod jack, removable faceplate, etc. Only the end user can identify what will be needed.
2. When I was big into car audio, a component set of speakers (4"- 6.5" woofer with seperate tweeter) were considered the ideal front setup for most car stereo systems. Decent flexibilty and ability to aim the tweeter will help out with sound quality. Rear speakers may/may not be desired in his setup - that is something he will have to decide. I personally like having rear speakers, as do my passengers. Subwoffers, agreed with PReal, a single 10" or 12" sub will provide more than enough low-end. Not ever sure if center-channel speakers are used anymore in competitions, but they were used when I was into stereos to provide good "imaging" - the center channel was usually a single speaker, placed in the middle of the dashboard near the windshield.
3. Good wiring. You dont have to go the most expensive route, but get the correct size wires you need. Also, take your time in layout the wires down. Keep the RCA cables away from the power cable.
4. Amplifiers - I think there are a lot of factors here. I personally like the ones with internal crossovers (function that lets you decide what sound signals to send to which speakers - ie.: Filtering out the low signals to smaller speakers becuase they cant handle low signals (bass) at high volumes - thats what subwoofers are for.). How many amps does he want? There are 2 channel amps, 4 channel amps, 6 channel amps etc. I would go with a reputable brand, and you can consult your local car stereo shop on which they recommend (they will most likely point in the $$$$ department, but you can get what your looking for, for not a lot of cash). Power rating, be carefull not to send to much or to little power (RMS watts) to your speakers.
Many different factors to decide. I am currently starting to put together a radio setup in my 97, and I will end up starting with a good head unit first and formost. Afterwhich, during a weekend, I plan on installing the speakers, wiring, and amps to my system all at once so I dont have to dilly-dally a month or two down the road. I will 100% install myself, just because I enjoy it and I dont want to pay the $$$ to have someone else do it. Hope this helps.
PS - if he is lookign for good quality sound, I would go as follows:
1. Head unit running stock speakers untill more $$$ is availbe.
2. Upgrade speakers to a co-axle type (2-way speakers with woofer and tweeter)
3. Decide on Subwoofer(s)
4. Purchase wiring, and amp(s) to power the interior speakers and trunk subwoofer(2)
5. Install and enjoy.
5th Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,447
From:
RE: Help an old man--please
ORIGINAL: dmorris245
I think a good progressive system would be as follows - but feel free to adjust as see fit:
1. Start with a quality head unit that meets all the requirements that are asked for - MP3 compatibility, ipod jack, removable faceplate, etc. Only the end user can identify what will be needed.
2. When I was big into car audio, a component set of speakers (4"- 6.5" woofer with seperate tweeter) were considered the ideal front setup for most car stereo systems. Decent flexibilty and ability to aim the tweeter will help out with sound quality. Rear speakers may/may not be desired in his setup - that is something he will have to decide. I personally like having rear speakers, as do my passengers. Subwoffers, agreed with PReal, a single 10" or 12" sub will provide more than enough low-end. Not ever sure if center-channel speakers are used anymore in competitions, but they were used when I was into stereos to provide good "imaging" - the center channel was usually a single speaker, placed in the middle of the dashboard near the windshield.
3. Good wiring. You dont have to go the most expensive route, but get the correct size wires you need. Also, take your time in layout the wires down. Keep the RCA cables away from the power cable.
4. Amplifiers - I think there are a lot of factors here. I personally like the ones with internal crossovers (function that lets you decide what sound signals to send to which speakers - ie.: Filtering out the low signals to smaller speakers becuase they cant handle low signals (bass) at high volumes - thats what subwoofers are for.). How many amps does he want? There are 2 channel amps, 4 channel amps, 6 channel amps etc. I would go with a reputable brand, and you can consult your local car stereo shop on which they recommend (they will most likely point in the $$$$ department, but you can get what your looking for, for not a lot of cash). Power rating, be carefull not to send to much or to little power (RMS watts) to your speakers.
Many different factors to decide. I am currently starting to put together a radio setup in my 97, and I will end up starting with a good head unit first and formost. Afterwhich, during a weekend, I plan on installing the speakers, wiring, and amps to my system all at once so I dont have to dilly-dally a month or two down the road. I will 100% install myself, just because I enjoy it and I dont want to pay the $$$ to have someone else do it. Hope this helps.
PS - if he is lookign for good quality sound, I would go as follows:
1. Head unit running stock speakers untill more $$$ is availbe.
2. Upgrade speakers to a co-axle type (2-way speakers with woofer and tweeter)
3. Decide on Subwoofer(s)
4. Purchase wiring, and amp(s) to power the interior speakers and trunk subwoofer(2)
5. Install and enjoy.
I think a good progressive system would be as follows - but feel free to adjust as see fit:
1. Start with a quality head unit that meets all the requirements that are asked for - MP3 compatibility, ipod jack, removable faceplate, etc. Only the end user can identify what will be needed.
2. When I was big into car audio, a component set of speakers (4"- 6.5" woofer with seperate tweeter) were considered the ideal front setup for most car stereo systems. Decent flexibilty and ability to aim the tweeter will help out with sound quality. Rear speakers may/may not be desired in his setup - that is something he will have to decide. I personally like having rear speakers, as do my passengers. Subwoffers, agreed with PReal, a single 10" or 12" sub will provide more than enough low-end. Not ever sure if center-channel speakers are used anymore in competitions, but they were used when I was into stereos to provide good "imaging" - the center channel was usually a single speaker, placed in the middle of the dashboard near the windshield.
3. Good wiring. You dont have to go the most expensive route, but get the correct size wires you need. Also, take your time in layout the wires down. Keep the RCA cables away from the power cable.
4. Amplifiers - I think there are a lot of factors here. I personally like the ones with internal crossovers (function that lets you decide what sound signals to send to which speakers - ie.: Filtering out the low signals to smaller speakers becuase they cant handle low signals (bass) at high volumes - thats what subwoofers are for.). How many amps does he want? There are 2 channel amps, 4 channel amps, 6 channel amps etc. I would go with a reputable brand, and you can consult your local car stereo shop on which they recommend (they will most likely point in the $$$$ department, but you can get what your looking for, for not a lot of cash). Power rating, be carefull not to send to much or to little power (RMS watts) to your speakers.
Many different factors to decide. I am currently starting to put together a radio setup in my 97, and I will end up starting with a good head unit first and formost. Afterwhich, during a weekend, I plan on installing the speakers, wiring, and amps to my system all at once so I dont have to dilly-dally a month or two down the road. I will 100% install myself, just because I enjoy it and I dont want to pay the $$$ to have someone else do it. Hope this helps.
PS - if he is lookign for good quality sound, I would go as follows:
1. Head unit running stock speakers untill more $$$ is availbe.
2. Upgrade speakers to a co-axle type (2-way speakers with woofer and tweeter)
3. Decide on Subwoofer(s)
4. Purchase wiring, and amp(s) to power the interior speakers and trunk subwoofer(2)
5. Install and enjoy.
I'm going to answer some questions regarding number 2.
A. component speakers are still the best choice. Ideally a 6.5 inch system is used becuase the larger surface are gives more midbass and moves your imaging forward. Coax's usually refer to a non-component style speaker with a tweeter that is assembled with the woofer and has a minimal crossover. (usually just a cap)
B. Rear speakers really are pointless. I had a rear passenger in my Pathfinder and when I told him I had no rear speakers he was shocked. It is all about the installation quality and doing the proper amound of deadening and imaging. If the stereo is set up to play to the front passengers the rear ones will be able to hear it just fine. People that don't care about sound quality run rears becuase they either think more sound is better or they just don't care about imaging. The thing to remember is that I said full range. A small amount of midbass in a position between the subs and the fronts can aide in imaging towards the front of the car. But why would you do that when you can spend that money on the fronts and put the midbass in the front of the cabin.
C. I have never heard of anyone running a center channel for imaging. In a 5.1 surround setup they are great, but for stereo sound they will do nothing but destroy the stereo portion of the sound. There are many people that mound tweeters on each side of the dash facing the windshield to enhance the high frequecny imaging if they have problems with losses going from side to side.
Number 3 is 100% correct. Inductive interference of the signal wire (i.e. alt whine) is a bad thing. Small wire and high current = fire.
Number 4 shows how long it has been. It is really really hard to find an amp without an internal crossover these days. Most people now prefer to run a class A/B 2 channel to the front speakers and run a mono block Class D amp to the subs. Class D amps are more efficient but create distortion at high frequencies (hence thy're used for subs). Also, it never hurts to have too much RMS power, it gives you additional headroom.In general it is a low power signal that is peaking (square waving) that will cause a speaker to blow.
Cheers.
Dmorris,
A few of us here can help you catch up really quick and there are probilbly some brands you haven't heard of on the scene these days that will blow your socks off for the money.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 6
RE: Help an old man--please
The boy says he listens to rock and rap. We haven't really established a budget as I dont know what you get for your $$$.
How about $750 to throw out a number? Don't want to be stuck w/something we will want to replace in a yr. though, so if my number isnt realistic please correct me. Again not looking for a competition system but a good one.
Thanks for your help!
How about $750 to throw out a number? Don't want to be stuck w/something we will want to replace in a yr. though, so if my number isnt realistic please correct me. Again not looking for a competition system but a good one.
Thanks for your help!
1st Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 67
RE: Help an old man--please
Just my opinion, but $750 would probably get you a very nice setup. You could even reduce that amount if you did some/all of the install yourself.
Keep your eyes open for good deals too, they are always out there. There is always someone selling thier system that might be perfect for your needs.
Keep your eyes open for good deals too, they are always out there. There is always someone selling thier system that might be perfect for your needs.
5th Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,447
From:
RE: Help an old man--please
$750 is a great budget. Here is my recomendation.
HU: http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=4951$150 at circuit city right now. woofersetc should pricematch, $50 more for ipod connector.
Fronts: http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=4418$150 unbeatable for the money.
Amp: http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/pro...products_id=46
Sub: http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/pro...products_id=31
Total for amp and sub in package builder: $315
That would be a tad under $650 and leave you $100 for wiring and an enclosure.
He will have a complete full range system that ifhe wishes is very upgradeable.
HU: http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=4951$150 at circuit city right now. woofersetc should pricematch, $50 more for ipod connector.
Fronts: http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=4418$150 unbeatable for the money.
Amp: http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/pro...products_id=46
Sub: http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/pro...products_id=31
Total for amp and sub in package builder: $315
That would be a tad under $650 and leave you $100 for wiring and an enclosure.
He will have a complete full range system that ifhe wishes is very upgradeable.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 6
RE: Help an old man--please
On the sub, would I want the d2 or d4?
I intend to build the enclosure, is the box totally enclosed (only opening for the cone)?
Should the enclosure be mounted w/cone facingforward (towards the back of the back seat)?
I appreciate all your help!
I intend to build the enclosure, is the box totally enclosed (only opening for the cone)?
Should the enclosure be mounted w/cone facingforward (towards the back of the back seat)?
I appreciate all your help!
5th Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,447
From:
RE: Help an old man--please
you would want the D2 sub with that 4 channel amp.
The enclosure would need to be constructed out of 3/4 inch MDF (Available at any hardware store), glued and screwed together (I prefer coarse thread drywall screws, and then the seams filled with 100% silicon caulk. You will need to cut a circle the diameter of the cutout diameter of the woofer. I prefer to face the sub rearwards.
There is a great box building primer on www.bcae1.com
The enclosure would need to be constructed out of 3/4 inch MDF (Available at any hardware store), glued and screwed together (I prefer coarse thread drywall screws, and then the seams filled with 100% silicon caulk. You will need to cut a circle the diameter of the cutout diameter of the woofer. I prefer to face the sub rearwards.
There is a great box building primer on www.bcae1.com