Well about a year ago I took my 03 mach460 system to circuit city, and they told me they could simply hook a sub/amp combo up to the stock radio, and they did, and it worked. However, the fuse for the system would blow after only a little use. They told me it was the biggest available for the situation....(which i couldnt understand) and that the setup would not work unless they rewired the car. (pretty sure he does know what hes talking about)


Now I would like to try again, and I was wondering what the cheapest way to install a sub or two to the stock system would be. They left all the wireing in the car from the previous setup, and I was thinking I could get a fuse, then hook up a smaller setup to the car.

DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY ADVISE FOR ME??

 

any1?

i know there are people on this site that have installed subs to their setups


is this an option?? im not lookin for too much power just a lil more UMMP, if ya know wut i mean
http://www.circuitcity.com/ccd/bundl...sure%20package

 

any1???

any opinoins welcome....how about people with JUST basetubes in their car?

 

First off stay away from any CC or BB.

Secondly they should give you money back for the "install job" if your fuse is blowing on any regular basis. I haven't had a fuse blow since I had 2 1200 watt PG amps in my Bonne with no charge system upgrades and only running 4 ga. That was obviously a big no, no and I am obviously alot more experienced now and would never do something like that.

Now yes you can add to your existing 460 system no problem. First before doing any woofersI would upgrade to an aftermarket headunit, Eclipse is an excellent brand to consider, if you are going with something top end Pioneer (or Premier) is a good choice as well. Then once you have done that adding woofers is a super easy process. You simply run your wires, which you said you already have, and hook them up like any other system. No LOC or high-level input adaptors or any other crap that will destroy your quality. You will then be ready to rock out and ready to upgrade your front stage as well.

If you would read my Sticky in the A/V Forum main page all of this would be answered in there for the most part, please refer to that and if you have any further questions, please come back to us for them!

Also you may be thinking, I dont need to have any fancy featured cd player for my car. Well to be honest the factory unit is junk if it hasn't failed out on you yet, dont think it's not going to happen soon, it will. And upgrading your headunit is by far the most effective and efficient way to upgrade your sound. You would be amazed at the quality you will gain from utilizing your factory 460 system with just an aftermarket headunit. You would have thought you upgraded everything.

Quick analogy. Think of an audio system like any car
Headunit = Engine
Speakers/Amps = Drivetrain, suspension
Subwoofers/Enclosure = Blower

Adding woofers (Blower) can make a drastic difference in one aspect, but without upgrading or rebuilding your engine (Headunit) you will never get to experience what you entire car (system) can do.

A good headunit is the foundation of a quailty, reliable stereo.

 

thanks for the input! I'm sorry if this is a stupid question, but what exactly is CC or BB?

I actually put a pioneer headunit in a while back and all my bass disapeared, the guys at CircuitCity (morons) told me that to make it work all the speakers would need to be rewired. (I did get all my money back)

But like I said, however they wired the car, they left the wireing in there, minus the fuse and all that encompasses that. Im hoping I could add a 12 and a lower power amp and it wont blow, or maybe a basetube with an amp already built in. Im not looking to blow the sox off anyone outside the car, just to enjoy my music more.

Thank for the help and patience with me! (i dont know that much about electrical things, such as this)

 

Sounds like what seight311 said is right and they did a crappy install . Either they used too small of a wire to run from your battery to your amp, they didn't use the appropriate fuse for what your amp was calling for in the configuration they used, or they bridged your amp while using the recomended wiring for it to run non-bridged.

I would go with a different package than the one you listed from CC (Circuit City). The sub seems to handle 200+ watts RMS, but the amp can only put out 105 watts RMS. That's pretty low. It would defenitely be underpowering your sub. On top of that, the subs frequency range starts at 45hz. Most head units start at 20hz, which is the lowest frequency the human ear can hear. Although you won't notice the difference in sound frequencies, the gap would mean that there would be unwanted frequecies going into your sub that will cause it to distort. If you still want to go with this setup, I would definetly recomend you get a subsonic filter, this would be a highpass crossover adjusted to cut out any frequencies below 45hz.

Whichever way you decide to go, you should have no probloem getting a sub and amp set up in your ride, as long as you go with a knowledgable instaler. I would also consider the wiring that was left in your car suspect, and consider getting a new, and thicker, power cable from your battery to your amp; you can worry about what size fuse you will need once you know the requirements of your amp.


PS: Nice tuning on your car, those are the same bolt-ons I want to do on my 2002 GT Automatic. How is it responding comapred to stock?

 

yes, i looked at the wireing today and noticed there is a thick black wire, a think red wire, and a skinny blue wire all coming out into my trunk. The thick ones are cut with bronze wire showing, and the blue one looks like it has never been used before. (forgive me but like i said this is not my area of knowlege)

I can not find the wires under the hood, although i saw him tuck them under and told me he was leaving them in there so I know there somewhere. (It was dark)


I am starting to lean towards a basetube to save money, my budget for this is 300$


as for the mods, thanks for looking! Yes, Its much quicker and handles EXTREAMLY better. The two upgrades I noticed the most were the 4.10s and the Bilstein shocks/struts. The ones that I did not notice so much were the intake, although I know they all made a difference. My plan is to get out of college and get a S/C eventually, one more year!

 

Your red and black wire should be the same size. If he wired in like a 8 ga power, 14 ga ground and a 16-18 ga remote wire, go slap that guy now.
The wire under your hood should be somewhere near the battery I cant imagine he would try and hide it.

As far as what to do, you can get far better setup than an amped bass tube for $300.

Check your wiring let us know what you have, the wiring should say what size it is right on the side of the wire. Could range anywhere from 1/0, 2, 4, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18.

Your power and ground should be 1/0-8
And your remote can be just about anything, I usually just go with 16 ga. not really super important to be a large gauge it's only telling your amp when to turn on and off.

If you have basic woodworking skills you can save yourself about $50 by building your own box.

Heres a setup to consider.
Profile amp $125 http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=4875
Total amp $95 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...TMA+T4002.html

eD sub on sale $100 (Normally $135)
http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/pro...products_id=31
All of these can be found on woofersetc.com
RE Audio RE12 $135 or SR12 $208
JL13W1 $150
IDQ12v2 $200
Boston G2 12 $150

Oh and what I mean is pick one of those amps and one of the woofers.

If I were you I would lean towards the Total amp and eD woofer. Both excellent bang for the buck and in quality. Leaves you $100 for any other wiring you may need and materials for your box, you'll be well under $300 and you'll be very happy with the output.

Again find out about those wires...

 

well i checked the wires like you said, the red one says "Tsunami 8 gage Premium Bat. Cable PR108"
the black one is the exact same size and says nothing, it looks like electrical tape almost.
the blue one says nothing either and is significaly smaller than the other two.


I have a picture here

[IMG]local://upfiles/14326/16C623CF323647D580588B8F6CC59C6A.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/14326/ECD9D4542FA648B3A51BC9092141B89C.jpg[/IMG]

 

Sandcracker don't take offense to this...

But why is audio so hard for some people? Are people afraid of electricity or something? If you have done all those things to your car in your sig, or at least some of them and know what they do for you, why don't you hang out in the A/V section more or go out and try and learn some real info, instead of coming here only when you have a problem? That goes for most of the other people in here as well, who only want to learn when something gets effed up. If you guys learned beFORE you spent money, you might not waste it....like I did a couple years ago.