Maybe so, but my standards are pretty low. I just wanted something that did everything. I have had it for a few weeks now and its really nice. Besides that, I think I am just gonna split the sub wire and feed to that to the amp. If that does not work, I will just run it off the rear outputs or tap into the harness.

 

Get a single RCA wire run it all the way to your trunk and honestly you dont need to split it. You can, but it's not necessary. Split it at your amp not at the back of the deck. Thats pretty jank of Jensen to do that, I have never seen a deck with a single RCA output.

So to answer your initial question, no it wont hurt anything, thats actually what your supposed to do, and when you say split I hope you mean buying a splitter and connecting it, not cutting the wire open and making your own modification to make it into 2 wires...

 

Nah, I bought this for like 3 bucks at Walmart the other night:
http://www.fullcompass.com/product/292317.html

I figured it is just a Mono signal it sends for the Subwoofer (hence the one wire), which is kinda "eh?". Like I said, if it gives me issues, I will just use the rear rca outputs or tap into the wire harness. I hope it does work though because the deck has seperate controls specifically for the subwoofer so it would be nice to take advantage of them.

 

You know you need a single female to dual male plug right? Not the one in that picture.

 

I bought that before I made this thread because I assumed I could hook it up to the one sub wire and split to two, hook it up to the basic walmart brand RCA cables all the way to the trunk, and plug it into the amp like normal. What is keeping that from working as opposed to splitting it with a female to dual male adapter at the amp? Same concept isn't it?


Your saying I would have to have something like this?
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search

 

Thatwill work fine.

 

Be careful with your gains powering that sub.

That is a lot of power for that woofer!

 

Is there anyway to test how much wattage I am pushing to the sub? Any inline tester type thing I could hook to it? What about a multimeter?

 

I would not worry about having too much power to your sub. You can double even triple the rms of most woofers with good, clean, low distortion power.

To set your gains
pick you most bass heavy music that you will listen to
turn the volume on your head unit to no more than 80% (you should try to stay at or below 80% as distortion increases rapidly from that point on)
turn the gain on the sub amp until the sub "farts" (you will hear it when it does),
turn the gain back a notch or two
this should give you a safe gain setting

If you are dead set on checking the power of your amp, the steps are listed below, I got these from another site


EQUIPMENT NEEDED TO MEASURE OUTPUT POWER
To accurately measure output power, you will need:
1.A regulated D.C. power supply capable of powering any amplifier that you need to test
2.A set of high power resistors. They must be rated to handle the power output of any amplifier which you need to test.
3.An oscilloscope to view the waveform.
4.Some sort of tone generator. A sine wave generator is a good choice but you may be able to get by with a CD player and a test tone disc.
5.A digital voltmeter capable of measuring A.C. voltage. A true RMS meter would be nice.
NOTE:This information is only to let you know how the test is done. If you have all of this equipment, you will probably already know how to make this test.

TEST EQUIPMENT SETUP
Connect the 12v power supply to the power wires on the amplifier.
Connect the power resistors (dummy loads) to all of the channels of the amplifier.
Set the gain controls for all channels of the amplifier to the same level. Either all of the way up or all of the way down will probably be the easiest. You can make fine gain adjustments at a later time.
Connect the tone (sine wave) generator to all of the amplifier channels. Turn the output level of the tone generator all of the way down.
Turn the power supply on. If it is adjustable, set it where you want it (12 volts, 13.8, 14.4 your choice).
Power the remote terminal of the amplifier.
Measure the output voltage of the D.C. power supply (it should be the same as before the amplifier was turned on).
Set all equalization to the off position and set all crossovers to full range.
Set the output frequency of the generator to any frequency that you want. I generally use 100hz. You should always use the same frequency or at least make note of the frequency used during the test.
Slowly increase the output of the tone generator until the output of the amplifier is approximately 2 volts A.C. Now set all of the gains to match the output of all of the channels.
Connect the oscilloscope to any channel (they should all be the same since you tweaked them).
Monitor the output voltage of the power supply, either with your volt meter or by the digital meters on the power supply. If the power supply doesn't have digital meters, use a digital multimeter.
Slowly increase the output of the tone generator while watching the oscilloscope. Increase the level until the top and/or bottom of the sine wave flattens out. Reduce the level until the wave is 'clean' again.
Now see if the power supply voltage has held to the preset value. Reduce the output level of the generator. If the D.C. voltage changed during the test, you must take this into account. A well regulated supply will have held the preset voltage.
Now connect the A.C. voltmeter to the output terminals of one channel. The channel connected to the scope would be a good choice.
Again Increase the level of the generator until just before the amplifier starts to clip. Make note of the voltage reading.
Turn the power supply off.
Quickly disconnect the dummy load of one channel and measure its exact resistance while it is still hot. The value of the resistor will change slightly as it heats up.
Now use the Ohm's law formula, P=E^2/R. If we found that the amplifier drove 35 volts A.C. across the resistor and the resistor had a D.C. resistance of 4.08 ohms, the amplifier produced 300.25 watts RMS.
P=35^2/4.08
P=1225/4.08
P=300.25 watts RMS

NOTE:
1.If the D.C. power supply does not hold its preset voltage, the power output will be lower than the amplifier is capable.
2.This test cannot be done using speakers in place of the dummy loads. The speakers will give you a false high reading at most frequencies.

 

P, the amp is rated 480x1 at 4 ohm. That should be fine for the 13Kv.2...