ttocs, I think you forgot how the thread started.
The speakers aren't even 4Ohms, they're 2.65.
Head units are not meant to drive 2.65 Ohms either. Once stang69 turns the volume up, things will start to go wrong.

Dual is an ok brand, but by no means super high quality (No ofense). I wouldn't drive that load with that head unit.

stang69 is doing the right thing getting the amp.

 

ok, listen close its gonna get technical. preal can back me up on this(the engineer)

have you ever found a 4 ohm speaker that when you put a meter on it showed 4 ohms? No because the 4 ohm impedencelsitedfor that speaker is taken from an average nominal impedence of the speaker through out the frequency range that it will be used in AC, yourmeter measures DC.. A Speakers impedence(measured in ohms like resistance)changes depending on the frequency it is playing which is one of the reasons you get peaks and valleys when you measure the sound output. It may play a 40 hz tone much louder then it will play a 10khz tone because the speaker impedence at 40 hz is lower then it is at 10k, making it play louder. When You measure the nominal impedence(the 2.65 ohms) with the meter you are reading the DC resistance of that speaker, which is NEVER the same as the average AC impedence(NOTICE the difference in terms, ac resistance is called impedence and is notexactly the same thing as resistance since freq has to be taken into account)that the speaker is rated at since the impedence in AC is taken from the average impedence in the frequency range it is made for.

What all that technical shtuff means is that the Dual deck he has, AS WELL AS ANY OTHER FREEKIN DECK RATED FOR A 4 OHM SPEAKER WILL PLAY THAT 2.65 OHM NOMINAL IMPEDENCE SPEAKER ALL DAY! The factory amps how ever will not play that speaker and are shutting down.


6stang, you will need to bypass the factory amp even if you do install that jbl amp. Do my way first and if I am wrong then you can do spyders. IF I am right you can probaby return the amp, save your money on the wiring kit and the time installing it......... IF I am wrong then you can always put it in but I will bet spyder all the money in my left front pocket I am right[:-].

 

I understand that perfectly.
Impedance on a speaker is a moving target. At the speaker's resonant frequencies, actual impedance might be 10 times the rated impedance, the problem is that at other frequencies it will be below that figure as well.

I know and understand that the nominal impedance is nothing but a figure that provides a semi-average of what load the speaker will present to the amplifier. The head unit probably uses a low budget integrated circuit amplifier, with very little overhead power. As the volume is turned up, with an average load of 2.65 Ohms you will be asking the HU amplifier to deliver more than it can probably handle for extended amounts of time.

There are many other factors that will play in favor of the amp, such as thermal compression causing the impedance to rise, but in general it's not a good practice to drive amps to their limit and a bit beyond. Besides the technical discussion were having, in real life and the only thing that should matter to 6stang66 is that no head unit is going to provide the necessary power (60W rms) to drive those speakers to their full potential. He is upgrading to get better sound after all right? (And yes... the speakers have a high sensitivity, but they will still be nowhere near what they are capable of when connected to a good power source)

It could work, it could not work. From where I stand, chances are it won't. It's really a crapshoot. If you're willing to bet everything you have in your left pocket, I'm betting everything I have in my right pocket.

So, I see your lint and I raise you a valet parking ticket.


Edit:
Forgot to add...
like ttocs said, go back to the shop that "installed" the speakers for you, try to get your money back and after that, avoid it like the plague...

 

I am totally lost after reading this stuff...LoL. No one installed them for me, I wanted speakers because one of the stock ones blew out and sounded like crap. So I went to the store, bought speakers, bought the necessary harness to adapt the speakers into the Mach system, and went back home to put them in. That is when I noticed the problem, and so I came to you guys. The only one I can blame is me for not asking i the first place, but I like to learn from trying to do things myself so that I can get an idea of how things work while I figure out the solution. I'm gonna put the new JBL amp in no matter what because I already bought it, and i'm pretty sure I'll get better sound from it than the stock amps no matter what the problem is. But i'm still willing to try this bypass thing you talk about ttocs. My amp isn't here yet, so what do I need to get to do this. Please just lay it out for me right here in simple terms, because all that stuff you and spyder are talking about has my head spinning. By bypassing the amp, does that mean that it's not even gonna be used?

 

hehe... Sorry, I tend to get carried away when discussing car audio.

The method that ttocs describes is basically connecting the speakers directly to your Head Unit's speaker outs (Not the RCA's). You really don't need anything other than wire, electrical tape and a pair of pliers.

 

I've seen a 4ohm subwoofer read 4ohms on an ohm meter, does that count?

 

spyder, the decks amp is not hooked up to a single speaker, it is hooked up to the factory amps, that are now hooked up to speakers THEY are not designed to work with.

He said it himself that he started to have problems after he installed the infinitys...

6stang, you are correct that you will not use the factory amp by bypassing it. The factory amps are not worth anything more then a paper weight when you start installing aftermarket stuff. Factory stuff sounds fine when it is alone but it will start to sound bad when you mix and match if you are not carefull. The way you have it hooked up now you are going to do nothing more then blow the amp anyway, maybe your speaker. It will sound better bypassed, trust me.

You will need to locate the bypass hrns. I cover this on page 2 of my cardomain page, it is not too hard. The hrns is right next to the radio, you will probably need to remove the dash to find it

I'll see that valet ticket and raise you a grocery reciept and a dime(not the good kind). Its gettin into serious money now........

 

ok, well the amp should be here any day now. could I just leave it alone for now and keep the music down? I'm gonna install the amp since I already bought it. if I don't need to bypass the stock amps, when i hook up the JBL, can I just take the stock ones out and run all four speakers off just that one? am I gonna need to go buy speaker wire? goddamn i'm lost. I might just take the amp to a shop and have them do it. although i'd really like to do it myself.

 

Big roller huh?
I see your chewed up dime, your grocery receipt and raise you a Wrigley's spearmint gum wrapper and a greenish penny.

Agreed the stock amp was causing all the issues when paired to the speakers. We were just debating about connecting them directly to the head unit. By this point it loks like the discussion is moot since he's going with the JBL anyways.

6Stang99 Relax...

The stock amp is not going to be used anymore, as it was causing all the issues when paired with the infinity speakers. You should be okay at low volumes while the amp gets to you.

You will probably need wires for the speakers, since you need to extend them to where the amp is located, and don't forget your amp wiring kit. Make sure it includes everything you need.

Installing your own audio gear is not the most difficult thing in the world, and it can be very rewarding. Read through the stickies here before starting, and make sure you have all weekend for the install if it's your first time.

 

Scott,
Just to show you I'm not as hard headed as you think, I will meet you half way on this issue. I've kept looking around, and found out that infinity is very loose about their impedance ratings on speakers. I dug up a discussion on their Kappa line of speakers that show them rated at 2Ohms on the box, yet the Infinity representative involved admits that the speaker is designed in such a way that the dynamic impedance is actually over 3Ohms.

http://community.crutchfield.com/for...howThread.aspx

Pitty that the discussion degrades into name calling.

However!, I wasn't able to find similar traits from any other 2Ohm speakers.

In this case I will concede the benefit of doubt (Meaning I'm not 100% sure you're wrong ), given what I managed to find regarding the Infinity brand rating scheme. Still, that was only for the Kappa line. For me, it remains a gamble I wouldn't take with my equipment and I remain firm in that the rated nominal impedances exists for a reason, and it's not good to push equipment to its limits.

Split the pot then?[sm=smiley33.gif]