It seems to me if you dont want alot of bass then go with 1 12, or 2 10's. cuz the amp is pretty weak and cant really thump. If i werre u and i didnt want alot of bass id go with 1 12 and that amp, it will be decent but it wont really thump, and it wont make your trunk rattle. I suggest to do that or if you want a kickin stereo buy a 800 watt kicker amp and run it to 2 kicker compvr12's (which are 400 watts). that way youll have the amp runnin the right amount of watts to each sub.

 

This is the largest mis-conception of most people. Underpowering a Sub will harm it so much faster than overpowering it.

 

You mean something like this? New amp And one compVR12? Can you change the ohms on a VR12? or do I have to pick between a 4 ohm model and a 2 ohm?

 

That is a good amp, and it will knock prolly blow your sub, thats enough for 2 12's, and you have to pick between the 2 ohm or 4 ohm, just read the specs and it will tell you. Get a kicker 400 watt RMS mono amp and a kicker compvr12 and that thing will sound AWESOME!!!!

 

I fully agree with 98stngfrk on the power issue. Speaker damage is caused by distortion (sine wave clipping), rarely by sheer wattage. Some of these amps may have a high output rating but it's peak power, likely total of all channels, and certainly not continuous per. Speakers and amps can get by with the occasional power spike required to reproduce some sounds, but trying to sustain output at that level will fry the speaker and overheat /shut down/meltdown the amp. A decent speaker will be underrated and able to handle much more than stated as long as it's clean, undistorted power. I don't know the ratio of peak output to continuous rms, but I estimate that peak is overstated by about five times (per channel).
When you look at amp specs, read the fine print. I'd put my 4-channel x 50 watts continuous rms amp up against a 1000-watt (as advertised) amp any day.