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quick amp/sub question

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Old May 19, 2010 | 12:13 PM
  #11  
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Devon:

I have an aftermarket HU, and will be using RCA outputs for the interior ampes speakers(done already) and RCA' for the sub output for my sub. I listen to a lot of diff music but lean more toward rock (linkin park etc) I want to keep the weight down so I'm only going with a single 10" sub.

The amp has internal corssover with gain control and remote bass **** for fine tuning.Frequency range 20 Hz to 200Hz. As far as the box, I will end up making it to whatever the spec is for the specific sub I get. Most 10" subs are around .5 to .73 ft^3. But again I will iron those details out when I have the sub. So how/why did you run a 10" sub in a 1.5 ft^3 box? seems too big...

http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/archive/mxaAmps/mxa4001.cfm
Old May 19, 2010 | 12:46 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by smitty2919
Devon:

I have an aftermarket HU, and will be using RCA outputs for the interior ampes speakers(done already) and RCA' for the sub output for my sub. I listen to a lot of diff music but lean more toward rock (linkin park etc) I want to keep the weight down so I'm only going with a single 10" sub.

The amp has internal corssover with gain control and remote bass **** for fine tuning.Frequency range 20 Hz to 200Hz. As far as the box, I will end up making it to whatever the spec is for the specific sub I get. Most 10" subs are around .5 to .73 ft^3. But again I will iron those details out when I have the sub. So how/why did you run a 10" sub in a 1.5 ft^3 box? seems too big...

http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/archive/mxaAmps/mxa4001.cfm


This depends on the quality/power of the sub. Also, most listings only give you minimum size, not maximum or optimal size. HERE is the subwoofer you should get IMO. Click the Specifications tab, then select 10" next to Choose Model:

as you can see, this 10 inch woofer is rated at 400w RMS, with a sealed box volume between .8 and 3 cubic feet. If you choose to go smaller, the bass will be tighter, but not as deep, larger and it will deepen, but be a tiny bit looser. This is why i picked 1.5, it's close to the middle, erring on the tight side of things for rock music. I have only EVER run Kicker in my own equipment. The only other products I would run would be JL, and they are waaaaay over priced not to mention a PIA install...

That being said, I have installed virtually every common brand in one way shape or form, and Kicker is the best compromise of price and quality for subs. MTX subs, IMO, blow. Kenwood subs, are worse. RF are the bottom of the barrel. But for amps...Kenwoods older MONOBLOCK amps as they called them...cant beat em with a stick for bang for the buck. I had one pushing my old 15" Solobaric in a slot ported box in my truck...blew the rear window seal out... I still prefer Kicker amps for tuneability, reliability and true power ratings though. RF and MTX amps are ok ish..but not worth the money IMO. Oh and I almost forgot about Alpine....Over priced *****...I bought lot's of their stuff with my discount when I used to install car audio for best buy in college...if they sold to the public at those prices it's be worth it.

For what it's worth, i bought every single system installed in my personal vehicles from companys on ebay. They were always brand new warranted items from ebay stores, and I have never had an issue once. I would recommend that route if i were you. I used to use Locust Audio from ebay alot, but I don't know if they are still around.

Hope this helps. keep me posted with any more questions...I love talking audio stuff it's been so long since i have been able to lol.

EDIT: I just saw a brand new 10" CVR on Amazon for 56$....

Last edited by devongarver; May 19, 2010 at 12:52 PM.
Old May 19, 2010 | 01:50 PM
  #13  
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I have been coming to that conclusion that the "big names" like Kenwood, RF, ALpine etc have gone down the drain since they went into stores like Best Buy etc....the best stuff is the stuff NOT sold in those kinds of stores. you find the better equipment in local audio stores. Companies like Hertz/MB Quarts/Boston Acoustic(expensive but good)....both of which I have never heard of since this is the first time I have been doing my homework on this project and audio stuff.

I have 5x7 Boston Acoustic's amped in my doors and rear deck, so it would be nice to go with a BA sub....just to keep stuff the same. (even tho i have a RF and MTX amps lol)

If I like the BA sub this audio store is willing to let me test, I may go search for it and buy the exact one.

I like this site...has good selection and, other than ebay (which I have not searched much on) has the cheapest prices and also free shipping on a good amount of products.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/

lol that site doesn't even sell Kicker....

what contributes to a "good/quality" sub that you can look at when searching online? Any materials to keep an eye out for or a design feature? My basic search is a 10" 4 Ohm SVC or 4 Ohm DVC around 200W to 400W RMS.....other than that it can easliy turn into a "oh this one looks better" (and yes I have done that...I would like a silver colored center cone to match my silver car...or black, but in the end it's not a HUGE deal)
Old May 19, 2010 | 02:06 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by smitty2919
I have been coming to that conclusion that the "big names" like Kenwood, RF, ALpine etc have gone down the drain since they went into stores like Best Buy etc....the best stuff is the stuff NOT sold in those kinds of stores. you find the better equipment in local audio stores. Companies like Hertz/MB Quarts/Boston Acoustic(expensive but good)....both of which I have never heard of since this is the first time I have been doing my homework on this project and audio stuff.

I have 5x7 Boston Acoustic's amped in my doors and rear deck, so it would be nice to go with a BA sub....just to keep stuff the same. (even tho i have a RF and MTX amps lol)

If I like the BA sub this audio store is willing to let me test, I may go search for it and buy the exact one.

I like this site...has good selection and, other than ebay (which I have not searched much on) has the cheapest prices and also free shipping on a good amount of products.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/

lol that site doesn't even sell Kicker....

what contributes to a "good/quality" sub that you can look at when searching online? Any materials to keep an eye out for or a design feature? My basic search is a 10" 4 Ohm SVC or 4 Ohm DVC around 200W to 400W RMS.....other than that it can easliy turn into a "oh this one looks better" (and yes I have done that...I would like a silver colored center cone to match my silver car...or black, but in the end it's not a HUGE deal)
Yup i have bought stuff from there before, through ebay lol. They have an ebay store, or used to.

Hertz I have no personal experience with, MB Quart has OK component sets but I do not liek their subs. Boston Acoustics USED to be top dog in Component sets, but they have since cheapened their line to offer normal people prices, which in turn has lowered their quality. They now still offer high end component sets, but also run of the mill components for much less money. I have no personal experience with their subs, but reading their specs vs their price, not worth it IMO. Again, it's completely up to you what you go with. If you want silver, Kicker fits that bill lol.

Here is a list of some on ebay for examples, you can customize the search options to find what you like.

One thing to keep in mind when you go and listen to that sub, note what size the box is, and if it has poly fill or not, and make sure they let you hear it in and out of the car. Also, make sure the sub faces the license plate when it is in the trunk, or you will have all kinds of overlap and it will sound like dogsh*t.
Old May 19, 2010 | 02:16 PM
  #15  
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sounds good, Im planning on mounting my sub (when it's all said and done) on the passenger side of the trunk facing the driver side of the car.

So I will orient the sub roughly where It will be mounted and also take note of the speaker box size and re-create it for my box. Like I said, If I like the sound from the sub I test, I will look for the same one or a similar one online for cheaper.

But I do like the ides of the 4 Ohm DVC....that way I can set it up as a single 4 Ohm load or a 2 Ohm load rangind from 200W to 400W respectively correct?
Old May 19, 2010 | 02:25 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by smitty2919
sounds good, Im planning on mounting my sub (when it's all said and done) on the passenger side of the trunk facing the driver side of the car.



^^^This may or may not sound very good...try it sideways with the test sub, and you in the drivers seat with the trunk closed and the back seat folded up and closed, then try it in the center of the trunk facing rear towards the license plate, I can almost guarantee it will sound better...


So I will orient the sub roughly where It will be mounted and also take note of the speaker box size and re-create it for my box. Like I said, If I like the sound from the sub I test, I will look for the same one or a similar one online for cheaper.

But I do like the ides of the 4 Ohm DVC....that way I can set it up as a single 4 Ohm load or a 2 Ohm load rangind from 200W to 400W respectively correct?

No, it will be either a 2 ohm load(parallel wiring) or an 8 ohm load(series wiring). So obivously your only choice here is the 2 ohm load, which you want, because it will run more efficiently this way.
Old May 19, 2010 | 03:29 PM
  #17  
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Ahh, got ya. Well I will play with the location of the sub, I'm picking up an install kit tonight and go from there. I'm just looking for a little low end punch, and don't need for it to sound amazing. I'm more caught up on lowest weight possible and most space in my trunk, then how well it sounds.

Not to mention the guys at the shop, will and can make suggestions of sub placemment. I'm trying to keep the sub away from the middle, so I can still put stuff in my car and fold my back seat down for more room if need be.

Thanks for all the help Devon! Ill keep this updated
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