Running two amps.....
01-26-2011, 12:16 PM
#11
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 195
Itīs something in the realm of 85amps for the 05-09īs. Iīd hit up google for the output of the 11īs (or maybe someone can chime in here), likely higher, but I still doubt itīd be able to keep up.
If you can find someone local itīs usually not very expensive to have your existing one rebuilt to output quite a bit more.
If you can find someone local itīs usually not very expensive to have your existing one rebuilt to output quite a bit more.
01-26-2011, 12:24 PM
#12
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Gallifrey
Posts: 1,596
All I really know for sure is with my current setup, rather modest in comparison to most, it comes up quite short.
So it might be doing 135. I know the aftermarkets tend to only go as far as 200 from the few I looked up. Wish I had an ammeter to connect to see what the stock draw is.
Last edited by wayne613; 01-26-2011 at 12:31 PM.
01-26-2011, 12:58 PM
#13
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 195
The OEM Motorcraft alternators may be rated at max RPM, so who knows.
What I do know is that my 2006 GT has done well with an aftermarket sound system that has a combined fusing of 160 amps. My Lunar L450, a class ab amplifier, has a 70 amp fuse and my Clarion DPX1851, a class gh amplifier, has a 90 amp fuse.
My next iteration of the sound system may have as much as 250 amps of class AB fusing. As a result I am looking into the 270 amp Mechman alternator for the 2006 Mustang Gt.
What I do know is that my 2006 GT has done well with an aftermarket sound system that has a combined fusing of 160 amps. My Lunar L450, a class ab amplifier, has a 70 amp fuse and my Clarion DPX1851, a class gh amplifier, has a 90 amp fuse.
My next iteration of the sound system may have as much as 250 amps of class AB fusing. As a result I am looking into the 270 amp Mechman alternator for the 2006 Mustang Gt.
01-26-2011, 03:05 PM
#14
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Gallifrey
Posts: 1,596
That one has 155 amps @ 800 rpm if it's indeed the same one I'm looking at. Very nice. If I could find one for under $200 later...yeah, probably won't happen.
My battery pool can take it as I upgraded that, but longevity wise I have to to shell out a $100 a year for a new battery as mine don't last with just this extra 40-50amp draw tacked on between computer and amp. Of course that is excluding the 4 shaker subs and amps. Stock still.
My battery pool can take it as I upgraded that, but longevity wise I have to to shell out a $100 a year for a new battery as mine don't last with just this extra 40-50amp draw tacked on between computer and amp. Of course that is excluding the 4 shaker subs and amps. Stock still.
01-26-2011, 08:48 PM
#15
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Join Date: May 2008
Location:
Posts: 160
So I'm not really sure how this thread was twisted to the subject of alternators, but I'll answer your questions that were directed to me.
Correct. That thing is called a "Distribution Block".
If it's a short length from the distribution block to the amplifier, then yes, it is acceptable to use the smaller gauge cable. Keep it 12-18 inches, and you may be ok.
Remember: Ground cable sizes MUST be at least as large as the positive power cable. Current flows from negative to positive.
I'm still not sure I understand. If the 1st amplifier has RCA inputs, as well as a pair of RCA outputs, then yes, it's ok to use that to feed the subwoofer amp from those outputs.
Remember: Ground cable sizes MUST be at least as large as the positive power cable. Current flows from negative to positive.
I'm still not sure I understand. If the 1st amplifier has RCA inputs, as well as a pair of RCA outputs, then yes, it's ok to use that to feed the subwoofer amp from those outputs.
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