I know this must have been asked before and I actually asked this in the wrong section already... I want to add a powered subwoofer (INFINITY BASSLINK) in particular to my 2012 convertible shaker 500 system. Can someone tell me which wires to tap into? I think they would be the front door "subwoofer" speaker leads, but which ones? If someone has a photo, I would greatly appreciate it. I read they are in the passenger kick-panel, but I don't know which ones. From what I read also, I only need power from the battery, a ground to the chassis and the speaker level leads to give signal to the Infinity's amp and signal the auto amp turn-on. Is the 2012 different from any other years? Thanks for any help!

 

http://www.evilcartman.com/shaker-50...b-install.html

Something the above article doesn't mention is, that you need to be extra careful working around the stock amp as it's fairly brittle. I ended up shorting mine out somehow after adding my own Shelby Kicker component set with the 8's for the doors.

In the article a LOC and tapping off the speaker level rear inputs were used to facilitate the sub's addition, which works fine as I have done the same, just with a Kicker 10ZXSUM8 LOC. Though I would like to know what wires to tap as well up front for the front channels so I can get my SYNC voices back to all my factory NAV screen prompts up front as they only are fed through the front L and R channels. If you're going to connect a remote wire, the gray with purple striped wire behind the driver's side kick panel will need to be tapped. It can be found on the connector on the bottom of the factory amp.

A special note, you're not going to want to tap any front speaker-level inputs for a sub due to the fact that the front channel does NOT put out anything below ~50hz. The rear speakers are the only ones that get the full range of the audio spectrum. I have confirmed this myself with the use of a signal generator connected to my AUX port during the test phase of my install. The rear speakers do hit all the way down to ~20hz, again as confirmed by my testing. Also, when you do your sound balancing/fine tuning, the Shaker HU (just like the MACH system of the past), starts cutting bass out of the overall sound spectrum around 70% volume, regardless of what wires you have tapped for your inputs, so don't go higher than that and you should be able to tune with full spectrum sound.

 

Thanks for the reply, but now I'm more confused! I saw the evilcartman post, with it's instructions and photos and thought I was all set to go. You say NOT to use the front speaker leads? Are you referring to the speakers above the door subwoofers? I have a 2012 convertible, premium, shaker 500, without navigation. Is this different than the 2011 that you have? You said the front speakers have frequencies blocked below 50hz. Are you referring to the front subwoofers? I think that would be unsusual to block the low frequencies, but I'm not an expert by any means! My rear speakers are in the side panels, do you have the hardtop? Somewhere I read the rear speakers have the low frequecies blocked, but if you are sure they are not, I would actually prefer to use them. Another question, I hope I don't sound dumb, but what in an LOC? I bought a powered subwoofer by DUAL, model SBP8a. It has speaker level or line level imputs. I don't know enough about the line level imputs so I'll use the speaker level. I'll use the switched power from the amplified antenna lead in the trunk. I'll start with the power from the battery, the switched power that I mentioned, and the ground. I guess I'll decide which speakers to tap off, as long as I don't ruin my stereo. If you, or anyone else, can help explain what an LOC is, if I need one, and if I really can tap off the rear speakers, I'll plan to splice just before the speakers, and I'll be ready to start my winter project. Thanks again.

 

Q: You say NOT to use the front speaker leads?
A: Yes use the rear speaker level leads.

Q: Are you referring to the speakers above the door subwoofers?
A: Yes, not referring to the dual voice coil 8's.

Q: I have a 2012 convertible, premium, shaker 500, without navigation. Is this different than the 2011 that you have?
A: Yes slightly, I have the factory NAV, but at all the speakers they should be the same, save for some wire color differences.

Q: You said the front speakers have frequencies blocked below 50hz. Are you referring to the front subwoofers?
A: No, I'm referring to the 5"x7" speakers.

Q: My rear speakers are in the side panels, do you have the hardtop?
A: Yes I have a coupe. My rear speakers reside behind the rear seat. Your top folds down in that area, facilitating the need to reposition them in the vert.

Q: Somewhere I read the rear speakers have the low frequecies blocked, but if you are sure they are not, I would actually prefer to use them.
A: I definitely know the rear speakers get the full range.

Q: Another question, I hope I don't sound dumb, but what in an LOC?
A: A LOC stands for Line Output Converter. It converts speaker level signals to low level (non-amplified) signals that an amp can use to amplify with.

Q: I bought a powered subwoofer by DUAL, model SBP8a. It has speaker level or line level inputs. I don't know enough about the line level inputs so I'll use the speaker level.
A: If your amp accepts 'speaker level inputs' then you can go without the need for a LOC, since the amp will convert the speaker level into line level inputs it can amplify all by itself. Some amps you need to flip a switch to enable this feature, others are auto sensing. Check your instruction manual for that because speaker level inputs jacked into an amp that isn't set up for them can fry the amp.

I'll use the switched power from the amplified antenna lead in the trunk. I'll start with the power from the battery, the switched power that I mentioned, and the ground.
A: Yes that will work as well since you have a power antenna, I have the standard antenna so that wasn't an option for me.

I guess I'll decide which speakers to tap off, as long as I don't ruin my stereo.
A: You won't even have to go behind your HU for anything and I've been running my setup for almost a year now with no issues. I would recommend using some quick splices from Radio Shack unless you are going to solder or use solder splices to make your connections. I always prefer to solder personally.

This link will perhaps help you in your endeavour:
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=1014&viewfi...%28FCIM%29.pdf