inhomeacades

Hey guys,



I am new here and just wanted to say that just looking around before joining it seems like there is a ton of knowledge visiting this site so I decided to join.



Here is my quick story. I have been looking for a 69 mach for a few years now and finally have some cash saved up and for the past 6 months have been looking to actually buy one. I have always wanted a cobra jet with the shaker hood and usually figured I wouldnt be able to buy one but could get a regular mach and eventually build it. Well I just came across an R code for 26500 that seems to be pretty decent. Here is my long list of questions before I dump my hard earned cash. I will give you guys a brief description of the car prior to my questions so you guys have some base line.



It is a 69 R code with supposed date correct "numbers matching" (although from what I read there is really no such thing as numbers matching but rather date correct) car. It has drum brakes all around, no ac, no ps, and has the C6 trans, 3.5 gears. The guy bought it back in 94 after a restoration and drove it about 3 years and it has sat since. He recently was going to give it to his son, but the son did not want it. Prior to offering it to his son he had it tuned up with a new gas tank put in the car. I went down and drove the car, looked it over etc. I have to say I wasn't very impressed with the power of the car, neither was my gf. I know that the down kick linkage wasn't hooked up on the car, Although I am not sure if that is the proper term, but the linkage to downshift the car when you hammer the gas. There is no major rust on the undercarriage of the car, just surface rust here and there, the paint is okay with a few chips here and there, the interior is okay, pretty much everything about the car shows as a daily driver. I would like to have the car look very nice but not be a trailer queen. I would like to drive it and enjoy it. Getting the power of out if will be a whole new discussion here on the forums because in my opinon the car is lacking power. There was no smoke and slipping of the cars as I drove the car.



So here just a few questions:



Is the price good enough that I won't get hurt on the car? From what I have seen over the years the car should be more expensive but maybe I just haven't been looking in the right places.



How do I tell if it is a 428 or 390? Seems to me from what I have read that they are the same block and with out removing the water pump, looking at the back of the motor for a "c" welded on, or removing the heads and measuring the bore, they are going to look the same. This is my largest concern is that I get duped into a 390 car and not a 428.



The buck tag is missing, is this a problem or indication that the motor or body panels were replaced? I don't know if this would be a far fetched thought or not?



Anything that I need to "for sure" check out on the car before buying it?



Could the lack of power be that the engine needs to be rebuilt? Or is it do to the rear end being 350 and the down kick cable, etc. There was no smoke and the car seemed to run fine.



I guess that about does it for now. Sorry I joined and wrote this really long message but really don't want to make a huge mistake and regret it later on. I really look forward to learning more about these cars and making the car I have wanted for years now. I greatly appreciate all the help and opinions to come.



Thanks guys.



I also posted over at vintagemustang incase you guys see me over there too.

SKAR

moved to classic section

goldrush031619

I can help you answer 3 of your questions.

#1-I live in Iowa and I see your in Illinois in our area of the country buying this 69 mach R code for $26500 selling price is quite steep. In my opinion if you shell out that much money it should be rust free, surface or otherwise. That price wouldn't buy you a A+ (trailer queen) but it should be good enough not to look like a rusted daily driver.

#2-Engine size, You can figure out which engine you have by looking at the Serial #. Look at the 5th digit/letter. In '69 S=390 4v, O=428 4v CJ, R=428 4v SCJ. Those are the only 3 options on the '69 if your talking 390 or 428!

#3-Buck tags, not all 3 assembly plants produced "buck tags". My '69 was built in Metuchen New Jersey code "T". They did use Buck tags, along with Dearborn. As far as I know San Jose was the plant that did not use them.

I hope this helps answer some of your questions!
Good luck-
Joe

Stevea

I'm not thinking R code cars come that cheap, so if it's numbers matching, then the price is not that far off (I think a rust free body could sell for close to that alone). There should be a vin on the block if it's numbers matching, I want to say behind the intake near the fire wall. The 428 I built for my buddy had a vin on it, although not numbers matching for his car. It is difficult telling if the engine is a 390 or 428 while it's still in the car. Agreed, not all cars had buck tags.

rmodel65

moving to general discussion in the classic section

The_Dude

I agree. A restored, numbers matching R-code will be $50k-$60k. I've seen people asking in the 20s for rusty projects.

JC316

As for power, I wouldn't be expecting much. My 351c 2v cougar ran a 16.5@83 with that same C6 transmission.

351c = 250HP
428 = 335hp

85 extra HP, 1/10 per 10 HP = 15's for it.

69mach1377

The 335 hp rating was a joke on the insurance companies, IIRC.
It seems like the car may have issues.

JC316

It probably was, but even still, I doubt you are going to even see 13's stock. 14's might be reasonable, which yeah, pretty dang slow.

Edit:

Just found an article that had a 69 428 CJ with a drag pack, ran 13.9@103. The auto and less gearing will drop that around the 14 range.