Floats are gone bad on carb I have on my 1970 302 with Edlebrock manifold. Float adjust all the way in still getting gas over sight hoel. Instead of rebuilding I was considering just buying a new car 600 ploshed Holley. Below is a description of what I was planning on getting. $258 including shipping. What do you think about the price and is this a good carb for a 302? Appreciate response. thanks


This is a brand new Holley 600 CFM 4 Barrel, Vacuum Secondary, Electric Choke Carburetor.

H19-080457S

Features:

Shiny Finish
Vacuum Secondary
Electric Choke
Power Valve Blowout Protection
Model 4160 W/Side Hung Floats
Single Feed Fuel Inlet
Vacuum Ports: 2 Full Manifold, 1 Timed Vacuum
NEW “Next Gen” Needle & Seat Design Eliminates the Need for External Float Level Adjustment

 

sounds good cuz it has that power valve blowout protection. i think thats a new holley feature

 

I have that holley. I hate it.

 

What don't you like about it and what would you recommend. Also, what is a ford kick down and do I need it?

 

all it does is backfires. It is not ready out of the box you need to do some serious tuning.

 

There are no carbs right out of the box that are tuned for your set-up, but I would recommend using an Autolite (Motorcraft) 4100. Tough as nails, and easy to tune. Put that on top of a Weiand intake manifold, and it will deliver all the street fuel/air mixture you need for a good breathing top end of the engine.

 

I have some good write ups on how to tune my 600 cfm carb now if you want them.
taken from 302 coupe on stangnet.com

"that carb will work great on a 289 or 302. You just need to tune it. I have no idea how much you know about Holley tuning, so I don't really know where to start. A 4160 should have vacuum secondaries, this isn't a concern at this point however. You also didn't say to whaty extent your engine is modified, if at all. For a mild 289, start out with 65 jets in front, your rear jets will probably need to be in the 72-74 range. I'm not gonna go into accelerator pump system tuning at this point, thats a whole 'story. To tune the idle, start with ignition timing. Use a timing light to set the initial timing at 12 degrees BTDC, do this with the vacuum advance hose disconnected from the distributor and plugged and the engine at warm idle at 700-800 rpm. Once that is done, hook a vacuum gauge to the full vaccum port on the carb, or the vacuum fitting on the intake if you have one. Locate the idle mxture screws on the front metering plate of the carb (sandwiched between fuel bowls and main body). Turn the screws in all the way (turn clockwise) just so they seat, but not tight, now back off the screws 1.5 full turns. Hook a vacuum gauge to a full vacuum source, either on the carb or on the intake. Watch the vacuum gauge, if its a fairly stock cam in the engine, it should be showing a steady reading around 18-20. Now adjust the idle mixture screws one at a time, in slight increments (maybe 1/4 turn at a time) until you obtain maximum vacuum. If making these adjustments increases idle speed, lower the idle speed using the adjustment screw located near the throttle linkage. Then start over with the mixture screws and adjust until max vacuum. I have yet to tune a car that did not respond well to this procedure. Now that you have the timing and idle tune dialed in, you can proceed to tuning across the rpm range. Let us know if/when you make it this far.

Also, if you have gas in the oil you might have a busted fuel pump diaphragm, this will cause the pump to leak fuel down into the crankcase. Other possible solution would be the carb leaking fuel down into the engine while the engine isn't running, or excessively worn rings which would also result in oil consumption and a nice blue smoke screen."