engine/ carb tuning
ive got my engine in the car and broke it in slightly. ive come to tuning the carb now. i have 2 fuel mixture screws on the fromt of the carb as seen in the picture. i was wondering if they were both idle screws. if so which way turning is rich and which way is lean also how many turns from bottomed out should be my starting point. i dont know what carb it is i think it is a holly 4100 but i have a picture of that also. and for when i time the engine what degrees advance should it be run at, at idle. i was thinking ten but im not sure and im looking for power when im tunning this
[IMG]local://upfiles/22347/7249275163D24B4A874CE1DE1051AA69.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/22347/0B4EE93BE64A4436AEE6276782264993.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/22347/7249275163D24B4A874CE1DE1051AA69.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/22347/0B4EE93BE64A4436AEE6276782264993.jpg[/IMG]
1-1/2 to 2-1/2 turns counter clockwise from seated (fully turned clockwise until you very lightly touch the seat).
My suggestion if the car runs right now is to count the number of turns in for each screw, and write that down, so you have a base line you can go back to.
Final adjustment will depend on the cam. I prefer to get the vehicle fully warmed up (to include transmission), then use an rpm meter to set the idle mixture adjustment. As I'm adjusting the mixture screws (both equally) to increase the rpms, I watch the meter, and adjust idle speed as required to keep the engine under 750rpm. This insures you are running on the idle circuit. I peak out the engine and leave it there. Some people prefer to go back slightly rich, and most tuning books will tell you this as well. Peaking out is jut my preference based on my experience of reading plugs over the years.
As for timing, it will depend on your cam as well. On a fairly mild cam keep max timing to about 36 degrees, advance the initial timing up to just before you get it kicking back on the starter, or pinging under acceleration. Then work with the distrubutor weights and springs to tune drivability and power.
Or just set the initial around 10 degrees and with a fairly stock cam, if it don't ping or kick back on the starter you're good.
BTW, do you have a flat tappet cam or a roller cam? If you have a flat tappet cam, did you follow the cam mfgs guide for breakin?
If not, I'd highly suggest you go back and do that.
Have fun! I'm envious 'cause you got a V8 in your Stang, and I don't
My suggestion if the car runs right now is to count the number of turns in for each screw, and write that down, so you have a base line you can go back to.
Final adjustment will depend on the cam. I prefer to get the vehicle fully warmed up (to include transmission), then use an rpm meter to set the idle mixture adjustment. As I'm adjusting the mixture screws (both equally) to increase the rpms, I watch the meter, and adjust idle speed as required to keep the engine under 750rpm. This insures you are running on the idle circuit. I peak out the engine and leave it there. Some people prefer to go back slightly rich, and most tuning books will tell you this as well. Peaking out is jut my preference based on my experience of reading plugs over the years.
As for timing, it will depend on your cam as well. On a fairly mild cam keep max timing to about 36 degrees, advance the initial timing up to just before you get it kicking back on the starter, or pinging under acceleration. Then work with the distrubutor weights and springs to tune drivability and power.
Or just set the initial around 10 degrees and with a fairly stock cam, if it don't ping or kick back on the starter you're good.
BTW, do you have a flat tappet cam or a roller cam? If you have a flat tappet cam, did you follow the cam mfgs guide for breakin?
If not, I'd highly suggest you go back and do that.
Have fun! I'm envious 'cause you got a V8 in your Stang, and I don't
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