2 Row or 4 Row???
06-13-2006, 09:22 AM
#21
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RE: 2 Row or 4 Row???
My choices are down to two
PWR two row for $396
[IMG]local://upfiles/26659/975AA5647EF84DF99B15ADDAEE177DA1.jpg[/IMG]
Fluidyne 3 row for $439
[IMG]local://upfiles/26659/1B7E1270F63948489E1C8F33D9017374.jpg[/IMG]
PWR two row for $396
[IMG]local://upfiles/26659/975AA5647EF84DF99B15ADDAEE177DA1.jpg[/IMG]
Fluidyne 3 row for $439
[IMG]local://upfiles/26659/1B7E1270F63948489E1C8F33D9017374.jpg[/IMG]
06-13-2006, 10:26 AM
#22
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RE: 2 Row or 4 Row???
small block mustang with no AC.. 2 row aluminum. Plain and simple. You dont need alot of volume to cool it, and the two row will do pretty good.
The 455 in my GTO (I know not a mustang but still applicable) has a two row BeCool radiator. It is just as thick as the brass/copper 4 row I pulled out. The tubes are longer and oval shaped to get more surface area for the fins to pull heat from. This is one engine you DONT want alot of water flowing through really fast, it wont get cooled enough. WE use underdriven pullies on the water pump, and always a thermostat evenin a race application to slow the water down. You want as much heat pulled from the iron block as possible, then it needs enough time to dissipate it to the air.
The friction in the tubes is irrelevant. What is relevant is the metal its made from, how much water it holds, and how efficient it is. Number of tubes depends on the size of the tubes. One large tube will have less surface area than two smaller tubes. and yes 4 tubes will have more surface area than 2. That is where efficiency comes in and yes it needs to have tubes large enough to flow the right volume of water, too slow and the engine will heat the water too much, to fast and it moves before it draws any heat. The other thing is the fins, too many fins and it clogs easily, not enough and you lose surface area for heat exchange. That is all figured out for you, so you just decide how much cooling you need.
If you have AC, a built engine, and live in a hot humid climate, then a larger raidator is a good idea. If its all stock with no AC, it wont have as heat to dissipate. A 390/428/429/460 car would do well to have a 4 row aluminum radiator with electric fans on a thermostatic switch. Much more heat to contend with than a 289, and more surface area inside the block to pull heat from.
Not all radiators are equal, especially aftermarket ones. Small block guys have it pretty good though, you dont need to spend a fortune to keep it cool.
The 455 in my GTO (I know not a mustang but still applicable) has a two row BeCool radiator. It is just as thick as the brass/copper 4 row I pulled out. The tubes are longer and oval shaped to get more surface area for the fins to pull heat from. This is one engine you DONT want alot of water flowing through really fast, it wont get cooled enough. WE use underdriven pullies on the water pump, and always a thermostat evenin a race application to slow the water down. You want as much heat pulled from the iron block as possible, then it needs enough time to dissipate it to the air.
The friction in the tubes is irrelevant. What is relevant is the metal its made from, how much water it holds, and how efficient it is. Number of tubes depends on the size of the tubes. One large tube will have less surface area than two smaller tubes. and yes 4 tubes will have more surface area than 2. That is where efficiency comes in and yes it needs to have tubes large enough to flow the right volume of water, too slow and the engine will heat the water too much, to fast and it moves before it draws any heat. The other thing is the fins, too many fins and it clogs easily, not enough and you lose surface area for heat exchange. That is all figured out for you, so you just decide how much cooling you need.
If you have AC, a built engine, and live in a hot humid climate, then a larger raidator is a good idea. If its all stock with no AC, it wont have as heat to dissipate. A 390/428/429/460 car would do well to have a 4 row aluminum radiator with electric fans on a thermostatic switch. Much more heat to contend with than a 289, and more surface area inside the block to pull heat from.
Not all radiators are equal, especially aftermarket ones. Small block guys have it pretty good though, you dont need to spend a fortune to keep it cool.
06-13-2006, 10:39 AM
#24
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RE: 2 Row or 4 Row???
got links to where you are getting them? One pic looks like a truck radiator, the other looks like 30s era ford.
I am pretty sure either one would work. I havent heard of either company before today, so I dont know the quality of them. I have had good luck with my BeCool and I know quite a few who had Griffin radators, so those I know. I would assume that either one would work for you, especially no AC and a relatively stock 289. If you have a 6, then just pick one, the difference wont matter.
I am pretty sure either one would work. I havent heard of either company before today, so I dont know the quality of them. I have had good luck with my BeCool and I know quite a few who had Griffin radators, so those I know. I would assume that either one would work for you, especially no AC and a relatively stock 289. If you have a 6, then just pick one, the difference wont matter.
06-13-2006, 11:16 AM
#25
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RE: 2 Row or 4 Row???
The first one is just a pic of one of their radiators, the other one is a radiator for a 65 - 66 mustang. My 289 is by no means going to be stock. 9.5:1 compression, Edelbrock heads, .500 lift Comp Cam, Edlebrock RPM intake, Edelbrock carb, roller rockers and a few other goodies.
ORIGINAL: THUMPIN455
got links to where you are getting them? One pic looks like a truck radiator, the other looks like 30s era ford.
I am pretty sure either one would work. I havent heard of either company before today, so I dont know the quality of them. I have had good luck with my BeCool and I know quite a few who had Griffin radators, so those I know. I would assume that either one would work for you, especially no AC and a relatively stock 289. If you have a 6, then just pick one, the difference wont matter.
got links to where you are getting them? One pic looks like a truck radiator, the other looks like 30s era ford.
I am pretty sure either one would work. I havent heard of either company before today, so I dont know the quality of them. I have had good luck with my BeCool and I know quite a few who had Griffin radators, so those I know. I would assume that either one would work for you, especially no AC and a relatively stock 289. If you have a 6, then just pick one, the difference wont matter.
06-13-2006, 11:24 AM
#26
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Marquette Mi
Posts: 3,566
RE: 2 Row or 4 Row???
That isnt too wild. One thing about Edelbrock heads and intakes, check the water passages, alot of mine have needed to be port matched so they will flow water. the intake crossover on some engines is too small. Just check everything before you bolt it down the last time.
As for the radiator, on a modified engine more cooling is always a good thing. Might want to add the electric fan(s) to it on a thermostatic switch. Get the kind of switch that fits between the fins on the radiator, not the ones that go in the hose or tube. I could never get them to stop leaking in the hose/tube.
If you dont run an electric fan, get a fan shroud, it will work alot better to cool it.
As for the radiator, on a modified engine more cooling is always a good thing. Might want to add the electric fan(s) to it on a thermostatic switch. Get the kind of switch that fits between the fins on the radiator, not the ones that go in the hose or tube. I could never get them to stop leaking in the hose/tube.
If you dont run an electric fan, get a fan shroud, it will work alot better to cool it.
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