Well you've totally stumped me!

Sumerizing your posts to the way I understand what you've written:
On light acceleration it crabs, but you don't have to correct for it. In fact you can have your hands off the wheel and it goes straight as an arrow.
Under heavy acceleration it doesn't crab at all.
On your attempted alignments the best you could get was *almost* zero, but the car is perfectly straight, and no damage. The steering is in excellent shape too. Under hard braking the car stops straight with no wandering...
Yet the strut rod bushings are worn out, and have all ready been modified from stock (based on what you said about the amount of visable thread).
Hmmm!
That just doesn't jive with my knowledge on these cars. Hopefully someone on here knows them better and can come up with a good answer for you.
From the factory the caster was not set with the strut rod length. The strut rod length is fixed and is what controls the overall wheel base. Caster is adjusted by shiming of the upper control arm. I'm not a fan of modifying the stock strut rod, and adding poly bushings. I've seen one bend and another break by doing this. Granted these cars were pushed hard. They have big motors, big brakes, big wheels and tires (you'd think they came from Texas ).
Your mileage may vary.

Good luck,

Scott

 

67+ Mustangs caster adjustments are actually done with the strut rod, unlike the 65-66 Mustangs where it is done with shims on the upper control arm.
Your alignment specs definitely suck. I like to run at least +2.0 caster, especially with power steering.
However, I don't think alignment specs are your problem. Its probably worn out suspension bushings.

 

OK, I'll bite. What needs changed in the front? The back springs are already new urethane and were really tight to get in place.

I just changed out the sway bar bushings and hardware today. What's left to replace?

 

I don't know much about the classics, and I dunno if anybody said this yet cause I didn't read most of the thread, but how the hell can torque steer occur on a rwd car? there is no torque on the wheels which steer. torque steer happens on a fwd car. [&:]

the shop is either messing with you or they don't know a damn thing about cars. either way, I say go somewhere else for your work.

 

yeah, someone mentioned that before. funny seeing you here red.

 

Well, stupid me for not reading that he has a '67.
Thanks for noticing that. I have no personal experience with shortening strut rods on '67 and newer.

Sorry ebluekeys, my stupid mistake for not paying attention. I think what 2bav8 is saying is your strut rods bushings. Which makes sense with all else you've got going on.

Scott

 

Thanks all... Will be doing the strut rod bushings and extending the threads a bit after vacation the week of the 4th. Sure hope that does the trick. Will get a new alignment to go with new rims/tires at the same time. Should drive like a new ride!!!