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Wather pump replacement

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Old Jul 6, 2006 | 03:24 AM
  #1  
289FB's Avatar
289FB
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Default Wather pump replacement

As I mention on my previous post I am replacing the wather pump on my 66 289, the pump been in the car for the last 12 yrs and my concern is the breaking of the bolts ...(I know that is a stupid question) but you guys have any experience and advise with this problem and is any way to try to prevent it from happening?
Old Jul 6, 2006 | 04:33 AM
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Colorado_Mustang
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Default RE: Wather pump replacement

I've yet to break a water pump bolt on an engine that new. If you do break one, it isn't the end of the world...just the beginning of a little more work. Penetrating oil really won't help you at the point you're at, so it's twist and pray...twist and pray...[sm=alcoholic.gif]
Old Jul 6, 2006 | 11:07 AM
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Default RE: Wather pump replacement

I just did my 67 289 that had been sitting for about 20 years so a couple of the bolts were frozen but good. I actually snapped one. The good news is that because the bolts go through the timing cover, even if one breaks, you should still have enough of a nub left after removing the timing cover to gat the stud out of the block with a vice grip. However, if possible you don't want to break the stud. There is always that possibility that it will snap at the block and then you have a whole other issue.

Initially, spray all the bolt w/ PB blaster or similar penetrant. I sprayed over the course of a week once I found a couple stuck. The other bolt that was seized was into the block and was still not going anywhere. I wound up heating the block as close to where the bolt threaded in with a benzo torch. After a lot of heat, it backed out. When I got the timing cover off, I was then able to heat around the brokern stud and get that out as well.

Some other tips. After spraying and letting sit, TAP the bolt heads with a hammer. This can help "break" the rust. Also, try tightening slightly first. Don't just untighten. After loosening or moving a lil, spray again if it is still tough and let it sit. I have also heated the area around a frozen bolt after spraying as the heat tends to draw the lube into the threads. Be carefull though, penetrating oil is usually flamable.

While your in there, I you haven't done so already, at least put a new timing chain and gears in, well worth the preventative maintenance and your timing will thank you. May even want to consider checking the opil pump as well since the front of the pan is accessable. You can loosen the oil pan enough so that you can remove the pump. Just some suggestions, because taking the front cover off your engine is not comething you do often, so I try to address everything under there in one shot.
Good luck.
Old Jul 6, 2006 | 12:31 PM
  #4  
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289FB
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Default RE: Wather pump replacement

Thank you guys!!
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