A little lesson---In order to shift from 1 to 2 the first thing that must happen is that the 1-2 shift valve (in the valve body) must move.

This allows fluid to go to the apply (Small Piston) side of the INTERMEDIATE SERVO which SHOULD then tighten the intermediate band around the intermediate drum and cause the transmission to shift into 2nd

At some higher speed the 2-3 shift valve must move and then fluid will bypass that valve and go in two directions.

It will go to the release side of the INTERMEDIATE SERVO and force the piston back to the release position because the release piston is larger than the apply piston and there is also a release spring.

At the same time pressure will also go to the HIGH/REVERSE clutch and apply it and the transmission will now be in 3rd.

If the servo is leaking on the apply side it will NOT apply and the transmission will stay in 1st.

If the servo is leaking on the release side the servo will not release and the clutch will not apply and the transmission will stay in second.

As you can see both problems that you mention can relate to the INTERMEDIATE SERVO. Which is under a cover on the pass. side of the transmission.

Suggest that you go to your local library and find a Mitchells Manual and read the proceedure to replace the seals. (Easy to do but difficult to describe here)

Don don_albasi@yahoo.com

PS-I suggest that you become familiar with the chart below

First Gear Drive -Forward Clutch applies-Low and Reverse assembly held against counter clockwise rotation by a One Way Clutch

First Gear Selector in L - Forward Clutch applies - Low and reverse Band applies and stops rotation of the assembly in either direction. This allows engine braking in 1st which you do not have in drive.

Second gear - The Intermediate band applies and stops the int. drum from turning which forces the low and reverse assembly to turn clockwise and the transmission is in second.

High Gear - The Int Band releases the High Reverse clutch applies and the entire gear train locks together and rotates as a unit and the transmission is in high (1:1)

Reverse- The High and reverse clutch applies- The low and reverse band applies and the car goes backwards (Assuming the the drive dhaft and axles connect to the wheels and they are free to turn) Ha Ha

 

You could just send that C-4 to Mississippi and I will fix you right up.

 

/sigh..

Ok, so. I get a new Moduslator valve shipped to me. I install it, tweak it as best I can and I'm still in the same boat. I know the service writer at the Local Ford dealership here in town and ask him to set an appointment up for me to test drive and chat with their Transmission specialist.

I say, nothing. I just explain to him that I need him to test drive the car and let me know which way to go. He comes back after a good 30 mins ( prolly stopped to get lunch ), gets out of the car and says. How long ago did you have it rebuilt? I then went through the whole spill about what has happen from the beginning. He then says to me. Well, you want the bad news? or the bad news?

He says most likely ( w/ not going inside the unit of course ) there's Servo's leaking and a timming issue between 2nd and 3rd. In any event, I'm looking at having someone go into the unit again.

So, I don't stop there because I need as much ammo as I can get when I present this to the original builder and demand my money back. I take the car to another trans shop here in town. Again, I don't say anything, I just ask him to test drive it. He as well comes back and asks when I had it built and who buil it. After I again explain the issues, he tells me damn near verbatim what the Trans Tech at the Ford shop told me.

While I am there ( at the other trans shop ) another 66' pulls into the garage. The guy gets out ( younger fella, prolly early 20's ) and walks into the office. We get into a conversation, talking about each others ride and I ask if he'd had his tranny worked over. He said indeed, infact I'm coming back to let them do my 30 day check per their request.

When that's done, I ask if he minded taking my for a ride so I can see for myself how his trans. shifted. We took a ride down some back roads, all the while the guy was putting the car through the paces. There's day and night differences between his and mine. His shift points starting from Drive are very crisp and defined. The shift points are held in 1-2 and it shifts into 3rd with authority, there's no sliding at all.

We get back and I ask the builder there what the worst case scenario would be for me. He said that there's no case scenario, I won't touch the previous build and try to correct the wrong. Either I start from scratch or you need to take it elsewhere. That in itself sold me to give the guy a shot. Him not willing to bandaid it and salvage a poor build suggests he atleast has a clue.

Anywho - I'm going to be out another 600 bucks for this shop to build it. Luck have it, I'll get the same result as the guy that I took a drive with. The builder also said that he'll have it done in 3 days tops ( baring parts shipping delays ).

/groan..

Soooo frustrated.

 

Finally some good news.

I took the car to another builder ( the one I mentioned in an earlier post ) and he spent a whole 45 mins on the unit and it was fixed. I've spent damn near a month trying to get this resolved and it ended in a 45 min venture.

New pin behind the Modulator ( about .5" longer ) and a tweak to a servo. I want to say he removed the spring, however, I don't know that for sure as I was not right with him when he did the work. He did say he tweaked the servo, however.

All I know is the shifts are very crisp and defined. There's absolutely no slide or what he called a *flare* from 2-3 and that shift is very firm and defined.

After its all said and done, I am very pleased with the result. With a 2.80 gear set and the PA Stree/Strip valve body, I get a solid launch and very respectable mid/top end speeds and torque.

Now that that is over with I can switch my focus to other things. Like, upper and lower controll arms and tie rod ends. Then I can start on interior, which was my main focus after the trans work, however, after spending so much time looking at the bottom end when the car has been on the rack, I see a wear pattern that needs addressed right away on bushings and such.

The good thing is, I can do that work myself at my own pace. I have the space and tools to do it, so I might as well get back into it. It's been 7, almost 8 long years since I've been able to turn a wrench with any consistancy, so this will be a challange for me. Physical wise, I have turned wrenches all my life.

 

glad you got it fixed.