well i have a crane xr-i and i am putting in a new coil and it says i need a resistor but since this is electronic do i need it or no i am puzzled

 

You will need a resistor for the + side of the coil. You need B+ for the feed to the electronic ignition unit.
If you have a '65 you have a built in resistor (in the form of the pink wire from your ignition switch). That will work well for the coil, but will not provide correct voltage for most electronic ignition modules.
You will need to run an auxilliary wire from the IGN of the key switch to the module, and run the stock pink wire to the coil. It's easy to do.

At the base of the ignition switch is a red wire that comes out and plugs into a pink (resistor wire). This is your positive wire to the coil. If you make a "Y" connector using bullets (you'll need to open the nose of the bullet to fit tight in the oversized Ford connector). Plug the base of the "Y" into the red wire, Plug one arm of the "Y" into into the pink wire, plug the other arm into a 14gauge wire, and run that to the B+ of the XRi. There is a gromet for the windshield washer pump wire that you can pull into the passenger compartment, poke a hole in, and then run the new wire along side of.

HTH,

 

Hey Scott why does he need a resistor on the + side of the coil? I'm running a Summit HEI and I bypassed the resistor wire. I thought the new ignitions with the superwumpadine coils needed 12vdc.

 

According to his first post, he has a new coil that requires a resistor. Unless I am not understanding what he wrote (which is very possible).
Why he didn't buy an internally resisted coil is beyond me. With an internally resisted coil (like you have) he could have run one wire from the ignition switch and been done with it.

The key is to feed the proper voltage to each component, irregardless of the combination of components.

Clear as mud?

 

Thanks Scott. I was pretty sure I did mine right. I used the set up I have to keep it simple, get electronics and a one wire hook up. I would not go that way again because of clearance problems with the air cleaner and the intake manifold. Nice to get and expert opinion.

 

no i had a coil hookey up just like you guys said but it burned up and i asked why and i was told cause i needed a resistor to the + of the coil but to bypass the resistor for the ignition unit

 

I have no resistor in my electronic ignitions. The resistor helps your points last longer...no points=no resistor.

 

thats what i thought but crane cams tech support said i needed one cause my coil will get to hot and not work anymore which just happened cause i put my spare stocker on and it runs fine but i have tried 3 other coils and same thing happens after 10 min of drivin coil is so hot and i mis fire but with my stocker its fine i don't get it

plus i think i am gunna put on a dura spark ignition i have had good luck with them in the past

 

An externally resisted coil needs an external resistor. It has nothing to do with the electronic ignition, unless the ignition unit provides the power to the coil. Even then it needs to supply the proper voltage for the specific coil. Run battery voltage to an external coil and you are going to cook that puppy. It's in the way the coil windings are constructed.

Brandon,
the tech support guy told you correctly.
BTW: I like the duraspark too. Good solid ignition setup. I also like 67T5Ponycoupes HEI setup, but like he said, there are some clearance issues.

Good luck with what ever you do.

Scott