i would get a 3, if you can afford it.

 

how much of a diffrence does it make?

 

An aftermarket radiator makes a HUGE difference. Do yourself a favor and install a mechanical guage that will tell you how hot it is in Farenheit degrees. The stock guage isnt a good indicator, it has no reference. Its a go-no go sorta thing. Anything over 230F is on the hot side, and should be avoided. 180-220 is within the normal range, and yeah anything over 130F is more than enough to scald you and leave nasty burns and scars all over you.

NEVER OPEN A RADIATOR CAP WHEN ITS HOT! Seen too many people get severely burned that way.. just dont do it.

You could also flush your system, pull the radiator and make sure there isnt 40+ years of crap clogging the fins. Take it to a carwash and spray it with the front facing down. You will be amazed at how much crud floats out. Clean it out, flush the block as well as the radiator, put in a 50/50 mix, and a stock fa will work just fine for you.

Would you rather work a little or spend $250-$500? Whats your time worth?

 

Will this do just fine for me? http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
and how do you drain the block?

 

i dono if your interested but i found this one and its even cheaper....

http://oem.thepartsbin.com/parts/the...diator&dp=true


second one down...im considering it as i dont have much money to blow on that right now but i can stick my finger through my current radiator like a hot knife through butter....no bueno.

 

That's a good aluminum radiator but you will have problems mounting a shroud. Go with the fluidyne that summit has, that's what I used. Its more money but money well spent. The flex fan and shroud worked out perfect!




[IMG]local://upfiles/26659/13E564F92EA1457E84D7337C6183E936.jpg[/IMG]

 

Flex fans are supposed to go flat...that's why they're called flex fans. They will pull air at low rpm just fine. At higher rpm's the fan flattens out to reduce power loss. If you're running high rpm, you generally are relying on car speed to move air and not the fan.

 

Not sure what the advantage of going with an aluminum radiator is over a conventional copper one. Copper has a better co-efficient of heat than aluminum, meaning it transferes the heat to the air quicket that aluminum. Why not just get a three row std radiator?

 

yeah, i keep hearing that so im thinking about going with a 3 row or maybe even a 4 row. will a 4 row fit and does it work better than the 3 row? what would you guys get? 3 or 4 row? once again, thanks for the help everyone!

 

in my experience, the shroud makes the most difference and also making sure the radiator support panel doesnt have gaps in it. In other words, making sure the air that hits the front of the car has to go through the radiator, not through little gaps around the sides.

WHATEVER YOU DO...make sure you dont make the same mistake i did and assume the block and heater core are clean. You jam in the new radiator and gunk it up with all the crap thats in the rest of the system.

Clean it out as best you can and install a filter.

Can you not get your existing radiator recored. then you dont have to worry about fitting issues