engine is overheating...now what ?!?
ORIGINAL: Aussie66Fastback
in my experience, the shroud makes the most difference and also making sure the radiator support panel doesnt have gaps in it. In other words, making sure the air that hits the front of the car has to go through the radiator, not through little gaps around the sides.
WHATEVER YOU DO...make sure you dont make the same mistake i did and assume the block and heater core are clean. You jam in the new radiator and gunk it up with all the crap thats in the rest of the system.
Clean it out as best you can and install a filter.
Can you not get your existing radiator recored. then you dont have to worry about fitting issues
in my experience, the shroud makes the most difference and also making sure the radiator support panel doesnt have gaps in it. In other words, making sure the air that hits the front of the car has to go through the radiator, not through little gaps around the sides.
WHATEVER YOU DO...make sure you dont make the same mistake i did and assume the block and heater core are clean. You jam in the new radiator and gunk it up with all the crap thats in the rest of the system.
Clean it out as best you can and install a filter.
Can you not get your existing radiator recored. then you dont have to worry about fitting issues
what i do is take a heater hose off the water pump and stick the garden hose up it. drop the bottom rad hose and let it run out or let it squirt out the water pump (one outlet is either side of the thermostat so best result if you can do both)
your problem is if the core is totally blocked chances are the heater core is blocked too. Here we can get them recored cheaper than replacing (b/c our parts come from stateside anyway) but you'd probably be better off to replace it.
the block...best bet is rinse as per above then install the filter so the gunk cant get into the new radiator. there is one at mustangs unlimited, but I'm not sure how good. we get a different sort that works well (see pic, top rad hose).
before you put expensive antifreeze or whatever in it, fill with water, drive it too full temp and drop the water a few times. when satisfied its clear, then top up with what ever you normally use
cheers
[IMG]local://upfiles/48146/D728BA026A98475FA0E6DE9406504384.jpg[/IMG]
http://www.babymall.com.au/ibm_custom/tefba/index.cfm
try this link. this is the best filter I have seen. the pricing from this site is on the high side. still US$60 delivered to your door is a cheap insurance policy in my view. you just have to remember to clear them out pretty regularly after you first install until the system is fairly clear
your problem is if the core is totally blocked chances are the heater core is blocked too. Here we can get them recored cheaper than replacing (b/c our parts come from stateside anyway) but you'd probably be better off to replace it.
the block...best bet is rinse as per above then install the filter so the gunk cant get into the new radiator. there is one at mustangs unlimited, but I'm not sure how good. we get a different sort that works well (see pic, top rad hose).
before you put expensive antifreeze or whatever in it, fill with water, drive it too full temp and drop the water a few times. when satisfied its clear, then top up with what ever you normally use
cheers
[IMG]local://upfiles/48146/D728BA026A98475FA0E6DE9406504384.jpg[/IMG]
http://www.babymall.com.au/ibm_custom/tefba/index.cfm
try this link. this is the best filter I have seen. the pricing from this site is on the high side. still US$60 delivered to your door is a cheap insurance policy in my view. you just have to remember to clear them out pretty regularly after you first install until the system is fairly clear
I agree, I replaced my heater core when I replaced the radiator. Lots of work but worth the time [sm=goodidea.gif]
ORIGINAL: Aussie66Fastback
WHATEVER YOU DO...make sure you dont make the same mistake i did and assume the block and heater core are clean. You jam in the new radiator and gunk it up with all the crap thats in the rest of the system.
WHATEVER YOU DO...make sure you dont make the same mistake i did and assume the block and heater core are clean. You jam in the new radiator and gunk it up with all the crap thats in the rest of the system.
ORIGINAL: ADRIAN1
yeah, i keep hearing that so im thinking about going with a 3 row or maybe even a 4 row. will a 4 row fit and does it work better than the 3 row? what would you guys get? 3 or 4 row? once again, thanks for the help everyone!
ORIGINAL: fast66
Not sure what the advantage of going with an aluminum radiator is over a conventional copper one. Copper has a better co-efficient of heat than aluminum, meaning it transferes the heat to the air quicket that aluminum. Why not just get a three row std radiator?
Not sure what the advantage of going with an aluminum radiator is over a conventional copper one. Copper has a better co-efficient of heat than aluminum, meaning it transferes the heat to the air quicket that aluminum. Why not just get a three row std radiator?
Aluminum radiators cool better by design not by material. More surface exposed to the air is how they work better. Also they are much lighter which is a bonus. You dont need one, a copper radiator will still work, especially if your car is stock like Soarings car.
ABSOULTELY clean all the crud out of your engine and heater core. Only takes a garden hose and some time. Just do like aussie said and life will be good. Not to many people run filters up here in the cooling system. Been in the business of repairing for 25 years and havent seen one yet. Block heater, sure, but not afilter. Neat idea.
Getting the fan to pull air across the largest surface area of the radiator at low speed is the key to keeping any car cool. That requires a shroud. Later cars had great shrousd from the factory. Early cars often didnt have anything. It wouldnt be too tough to retrofit a shroud to an early car, just find a thin one from a later Ford. you want about 1/2" gap completely around the fan away from the shroud, but it should be more than halfway into the shroud towards the front of the car.
Alternatively use an electric fan, I like a thermostatic switch so I dont have to do anything with it, it just comes on at 210 or whatever you set it at. Even with an electric you still must have it pull from as much of the radiator as possible.
Some flex fans cost power, some are cheaply built/unstable and will send blades flying. A modern clutch fan such as the carbed 5.0 had would be beneficial to an early Stang. Often a stock fan with a well designed shroud will do better than an aftermarket flex fan as far as cooling and performance. Unless you are building a 100 point resto/show car, you can use later techology to enhance the old car you have. Everything from wheels and tires to thermostats and fans can be retro fit to make things better or safer.
Glen is right about some factory parts are perfectly good even for a modified engine/car and the new part you just gotta have might make it run worse or go slower. It just depends on what it is, and what condition its in on your car. For me its too much power is just right, well almost, I can never have too much if the thing will still move on dry pavement... lol.
ABSOULTELY clean all the crud out of your engine and heater core. Only takes a garden hose and some time. Just do like aussie said and life will be good. Not to many people run filters up here in the cooling system. Been in the business of repairing for 25 years and havent seen one yet. Block heater, sure, but not afilter. Neat idea.
Getting the fan to pull air across the largest surface area of the radiator at low speed is the key to keeping any car cool. That requires a shroud. Later cars had great shrousd from the factory. Early cars often didnt have anything. It wouldnt be too tough to retrofit a shroud to an early car, just find a thin one from a later Ford. you want about 1/2" gap completely around the fan away from the shroud, but it should be more than halfway into the shroud towards the front of the car.
Alternatively use an electric fan, I like a thermostatic switch so I dont have to do anything with it, it just comes on at 210 or whatever you set it at. Even with an electric you still must have it pull from as much of the radiator as possible.
Some flex fans cost power, some are cheaply built/unstable and will send blades flying. A modern clutch fan such as the carbed 5.0 had would be beneficial to an early Stang. Often a stock fan with a well designed shroud will do better than an aftermarket flex fan as far as cooling and performance. Unless you are building a 100 point resto/show car, you can use later techology to enhance the old car you have. Everything from wheels and tires to thermostats and fans can be retro fit to make things better or safer.
Glen is right about some factory parts are perfectly good even for a modified engine/car and the new part you just gotta have might make it run worse or go slower. It just depends on what it is, and what condition its in on your car. For me its too much power is just right, well almost, I can never have too much if the thing will still move on dry pavement... lol.
ORIGINAL: Aussie66Fastback
what i do is take a heater hose off the water pump and stick the garden hose up it. drop the bottom rad hose and let it run out or let it squirt out the water pump (one outlet is either side of the thermostat so best result if you can do both)
your problem is if the core is totally blocked chances are the heater core is blocked too. Here we can get them recored cheaper than replacing (b/c our parts come from stateside anyway) but you'd probably be better off to replace it.
the block...best bet is rinse as per above then install the filter so the gunk cant get into the new radiator. there is one at mustangs unlimited, but I'm not sure how good. we get a different sort that works well (see pic, top rad hose).
before you put expensive antifreeze or whatever in it, fill with water, drive it too full temp and drop the water a few times. when satisfied its clear, then top up with what ever you normally use
cheers
[IMG]local://upfiles/48146/D728BA026A98475FA0E6DE9406504384.jpg[/IMG]
http://www.babymall.com.au/ibm_custom/tefba/index.cfm
try this link. this is the best filter I have seen. the pricing from this site is on the high side. still US$60 delivered to your door is a cheap insurance policy in my view. you just have to remember to clear them out pretty regularly after you first install until the system is fairly clear
what i do is take a heater hose off the water pump and stick the garden hose up it. drop the bottom rad hose and let it run out or let it squirt out the water pump (one outlet is either side of the thermostat so best result if you can do both)
your problem is if the core is totally blocked chances are the heater core is blocked too. Here we can get them recored cheaper than replacing (b/c our parts come from stateside anyway) but you'd probably be better off to replace it.
the block...best bet is rinse as per above then install the filter so the gunk cant get into the new radiator. there is one at mustangs unlimited, but I'm not sure how good. we get a different sort that works well (see pic, top rad hose).
before you put expensive antifreeze or whatever in it, fill with water, drive it too full temp and drop the water a few times. when satisfied its clear, then top up with what ever you normally use
cheers
[IMG]local://upfiles/48146/D728BA026A98475FA0E6DE9406504384.jpg[/IMG]
http://www.babymall.com.au/ibm_custom/tefba/index.cfm
try this link. this is the best filter I have seen. the pricing from this site is on the high side. still US$60 delivered to your door is a cheap insurance policy in my view. you just have to remember to clear them out pretty regularly after you first install until the system is fairly clear
[IMG]local://upfiles/27709/9A23ED7845CA4CA1A20A812C31B8EC18.jpg[/IMG]
[/quote]ok so do i stick the hose in this tube? is this the heater core tube? do i put the hose in this tube or in the water pump?
[IMG]local://upfiles/27709/9A23ED7845CA4CA1A20A812C31B8EC18.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/27709/9A23ED7845CA4CA1A20A812C31B8EC18.jpg[/IMG]
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