I am getting ready to completely overhaul my front end suspension (69 Mach 1). I am wanting to eliminate the power steering and go with an adapter and the Flaming River box. Any issues with this list?

- Upper/Lower control arms
- 620 performance springs - 1 inch lower
- KYB gas shocks (light duty)
- 1 inch sway bar
- Flaming River MS steering box
- steering adapter - eliminates ps

Also, I am wanting to get a lower ride...will the 1 inch springs be ok or should I just plan on cutting off part of the springs (1/2, 1 coil)? I currently have 16 inch rims...I think the tires are about 8 inches wide...same diameter as originals.

 

Hi 69M1

all this depends on what you are trying to achieve?
why are you so keen to remove the power steering?

I did on my 66FB and regret it. At the time and in my location, repairing the old PS was so expensive I decided on the manual steer route. I was also intending to race the car, so bought the 16:1 box, a quick steer kit from Cobra Automotive, new ball joints etc etc. I canned the racing (bought another car for that) but still used all the go-fast steering and suspension bits.

the steering is now heavy and reluctant to return to center when you let go the wheel. I had to change the wheel alignment to lighten the steering at the expense of handling (now more prone to understeer and not as sharp turn in). On the plus, it is more direct and has much better feel than the old steering (which was really cactus). On balance, its good on sweepers but really hard work in the tight stuff and city traffic. Its has much better feel when the tail comes out, but its harder to manage. Great fun on the track, but not so good on normal roads.

Lowering front without doing rear will exagerate the angles as if you have also raised the rear. IMO it doesnt look good and wont help handling. Also, if you lower it too much, then driveways and gutters become a pain to negotiate. Personally I wouldnt drop it more than an inch, 2 at most.

Front sway bar controls the rear of the car, so unless you match it on the rear, you will lose handling not gain. I reset the rear springs at the same time and put new shocks on and the car sits well and handles well.

DO NOT cut the springs!!
You lose both travel and strength and defeat the purpose of the performance spring.

good luck

 

Thanks for the input...
Two main reasons for this suspension upgrade: Handling and looks. I live in an area with a LOT of curvy roads and I want to DRIVE this car. I know it will be stiff in parking lots, but I am hoping for a much better feel on the road. Right now, the only feel I have is slop. You can't take your eyes off the road for fear of ending up in the ditch...and the front end parts are tight. I suspect a wore out steering box and PS components.

I know many have removed their PS stuff and went manual...I am just going on the assumption that driving will be an improvement...should not be different that any other car I have driven without PS...in fact, with the new Flaming River box, it should be better than oem.

As far as looks are concerned, I want the whole car lowered slightly...with the front just a tad lower than the rear. I am planning on NOT cutting the springs and letting them settle for a few months and then buying all new rear suspension...probably a 4 or 5 leaf mid-eye, rear sway bar, etc.
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I like your motivation. Most guys want the thing to fly first then worry about turning or stopping...usually after a bad experience with said ditch.

Sounds very similar to my situation. I live in hills just outside the city, so take it for regular blasts along windy roads. My steering was the same. Waaaaaaay too much slop in the wheel and the ram whatsit was so shagged it had different pressure spots depending on the wheel position. Same deal, I couldn't lapse in concentration for a second.

Our roads are pretty rough so my downfall was setting it up a bit too stiff in spring rates. If you hit a bump mid corner, it gets a bit nervous and quick to step out, hence my comment on being harder to manage with manual steer when this happens. I only did the steering a few months ago, so have been cautious and slowly building up the speed.

The suspension was done 7 years ago. I had intended it to be slightly tail high so with a full tank and me in the car it was about level. I'm guessing its done the equivalent of a year's normal driving as I dont use it every day. The springs havent sagged or settled one bit, so I ended having to lower the rear again. I reversed the eyes to lower the car but maintain spring curvature. Worked brilliantly.

My biggest problem now is the brakes are crap. I had 4w drums, changed the fronts to disc (std calipers from a local Ford) and it is still way too fast for its brakes. Next plan for me is kelsey hayes 4 spots on the front and adapting a disc brake rear from one of our local ford products. I'd love to go bigger but registration restrictions limit my wheel size and hence brakes.

 

i like to stop thats why i got 13 inch brakes up front and disc in the rear i also converted my car to manulasteering most of the slack is probably in the power steering ram assembly ditch that and u can probably do a little adjustment to take upp any slack in the stock steering box

 

rmodel, what size wheels are you running...i'd love bigger brakes, but not sure i can fit much more without going bigger diameter rims