I-6 to V-8 conversion
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1
I-6 to V-8 conversion
I've had my 66 for 15 years now and am FINALLY in a financial position where I can change over to an 8. The body is in very good condition and the car has been well cared for. I would like something fast and reliable. What would you suggest is the better way to go:
1. A stock 289 from a donor car professionally rebuilt
2. A crated 302 and T-5 tranny from Ford Racing
Also, can I really get smooth performance from the traditional stang suspension or do I need to go with rack and pinion?
I know I want disc brakes too, any recomendation on brands?
Thanks!
1. A stock 289 from a donor car professionally rebuilt
2. A crated 302 and T-5 tranny from Ford Racing
Also, can I really get smooth performance from the traditional stang suspension or do I need to go with rack and pinion?
I know I want disc brakes too, any recomendation on brands?
Thanks!
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 590
From:
RE: I-6 to V-8 conversion
I don't have time to tell you every thing but here is a start. Get the T5 and with the disk brakes, Go with a ford 9" lincoln versailles. The front brakes fit as well. As for the 302, I would go with a 289 just because I like them.
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 32
From: United States
RE: I-6 to V-8 conversion
IMO, the 302 and five speed is the way to go. You'll get solid performance and better mileage with the five speed as well as less RPM and therefore less wear over the longterm on your motor. Only makes sense. The 302 is just a stroked 289 so why not.
I would not go with the Versailles rear end as it is my recollection that they are very expensive to replace rotors etc. Since the majority of your stopping power is from your front brakes, youre probably best to spend your money there. I did the Granada conversion for my car and it works fine, although i think one of the aftermarket brake set-ups is a better, albeit more expensive way to go. But hey, you get what you pay for and the Baer brakes are supposed to be awesome.
As far as suspension, you should upgrade to the heavier spindles and 5 lug set-up. Your coil springs will need to be heavier or your car will sit lower.
You can get excellent performance from the traditional suspension as long as you make changes to V8 components. You can lower th upper control arms ala Shelby and there are other components to buy to improve handling. Rack and Pinion involves steering not suspension. Depending on how much you want to spend on upgrading suspension, you can check out Total Control Performance.
Good luck, have fun and work safe.
Darrin
I would not go with the Versailles rear end as it is my recollection that they are very expensive to replace rotors etc. Since the majority of your stopping power is from your front brakes, youre probably best to spend your money there. I did the Granada conversion for my car and it works fine, although i think one of the aftermarket brake set-ups is a better, albeit more expensive way to go. But hey, you get what you pay for and the Baer brakes are supposed to be awesome.
As far as suspension, you should upgrade to the heavier spindles and 5 lug set-up. Your coil springs will need to be heavier or your car will sit lower.
You can get excellent performance from the traditional suspension as long as you make changes to V8 components. You can lower th upper control arms ala Shelby and there are other components to buy to improve handling. Rack and Pinion involves steering not suspension. Depending on how much you want to spend on upgrading suspension, you can check out Total Control Performance.
Good luck, have fun and work safe.
Darrin
2nd Gear Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 266
From: California
RE: I-6 to V-8 conversion
go with a 302 with the t-5 its better even the 302 and 289 or the same the only thing that different that i think are the piston...and sum other stuff. but i mean i'd go with darrinO its better with disk trust me its stops and performs better lol also it would be coo if u fuel injected that 302 but also carb is also coo lol i like both but if u want a raced out engine go to coasthigh.com but just to get comfortable i would go with the 302 from ford racing.
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 8
From:
Things you'll need
I found this at: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/3...l/67I6tov8.htm
The following is a list of parts required for changing a ‘67-’68 Mustang from an I6 to a V8
Help for the '67/'68 owners!
The following is a list of parts required to convert an I6 '67-'68 Mustang to a V8. Unless otherwise noted, the parts listed are for V8 'Stang application. Fortunately for '67 and '68 owners, the I6 'Stangs shared more parts with the V8s than the '65-'66 Mustangs.
A Caveate: The '67s mechanically weren't exactly the same as the '68s (unlike the '65/'66s) so some parts won't interchange between the two year models. Another note, the '67 and '68s were the first to have the FE engines as an option. This page addresses the swap to a small block (289/302 only) V8. Certain parts will be different (and harder to find) if you are swapping to an FE engine. If you are installing an engine which originally was not offered in '67 or '68, you're on your own. *G*
COMMON PARTS BETWEEN THE I6 AND V8 '67/'68 MUSTANGS:
1. Spindle LH, RH. Drums or discs application didn't matter since all were the same (except for '68 the disc brake spindle is unique)
2. Three speed transmission.
3. All p/s suspension parts including Drag link (not sure about Pitman arm), inner and outer tie rods, tie rod adjusters, idler arm, idler arm bracket to fram, p/s hoses, p/s pump, control valve, and power ram.
4. Trans yoke should be the same.
5. Drag (center) link. '67/'68 I6 non-p/s same as V8 non-p/s and I6 p/s same as V8 p/s.
6. LH and RH inner and outer tie rods and tie rod adjusters are the same between I6 and V8 regardless of p/s or non-p/s.
7. Idler arm. '67/'68 I6 non-p/s same as V8 non-p/s and I6 p/s same as V8 p/s.
8. Kick down cable. '67 same; '68 unknown.
9. Clutch pedal to equalizer (Z-bar) push rod, Clutch pivot (engine and frame side), clutch pivot felt washers and *****, clutch return spring, and clutch rod from Z-bar to clutch fork are the same.
Parts Required to be changed for proper conversion:
FRONT SUSPENSION:
1. Pitman Arm - Necessity of replacement unknown at present. '67 was a transistion year in that some steering boxes had a 1" sector shaft while others had 1-1/8" shaft. I think there was no correlation whether or not the steering box had the continuous steering shaft or the rag joint. Pretty sure the I6 p/s Pitman arm is the same as the V8 version but not 100%. More research is in order.
I wouldn't recommend changing to the continuous steering shaft design if your "stang is equipped with the rag joint style unit.
2. Two front hub and brake assemblies including hoses. Stainless Steel Brake Corp offers original Kelsey-Hayes 4-piston front disc brake set up using the same spindles the V8 drum brakes use for the '67s and for the single piston caliper '68s, SSBC include the spindles in their disc brac conversion kit. '67 hubs are available new but status of '68 hubs is unknown.
3. Pair of front coil springs
REAR SUSPENSION:
4. Pair of leaf springs.
5. Rear differential assembly '67 or '68 'Stang 8" diff. or '77-'80 Lincoln Versailles/Merc Monarch/Ford Granada (LMF) bolts in. Axle to axle face distance on the V/M/G rear may be close enough to not matter with the '67/'68s.
6. Rear axle brake lines and hose that are attached to the rear differential assembly.
7. Emergency brake cable to rear brake drums: '67 I6 may be same as '67 V8 but '68 I6 different from '68 V8. Pick the part which matches the year of your Mustang.
8. Pair of 10"x 1-3/4" (coupe or fastback for sure not sure with Convertibles) rear drum brake assembly (your on your own if you have a 9", LMF have rear disc but parts are obsolete).
DRIVE TRAIN:
9. Engine (duh!) Don’t forget the ground wire that goes from the passenger side cylinder head to the firewall.
10. Radiator. If your V8 has a driver side output water pump you can bolt on a passenger side exit pump. Then you will have to hassle with getting all the accessory pulleys to line up. An alternative is get a radiator shop to mod your radiator to accept the driver side outlet water pump. If you get a donor motor, beware that some '65 and earlier 289s had a different timing cover to match the early style water pump.
11. Upper and lower radiator hose.
12. '66 - '72 smallblock V8 motor mounts LH, RH.
13. '66 - '70 V8 motor mount to frame bracket LH, RH (these are being reproduced and any friendly neighborhood Mustang parts place will have 'em. National Parts Depot has 'em fer sure).
14. You can reuse the alternator but you will need to get the correct alternator brackets to mount it (depending on other engine accessories). Most folks seem to get the engine fully dressed so already have the alternator, water pump, pulleys, and fan parts. Depending on whether you're installing a/c or p/s you will have to find appropriate pulleys that line up. Note all 289s and 302's made up to '69 had a three bolt crank pulley while 302s after '69 had 4 bolts.
15. '67/'68 Fan and fan spacer or clutch fan if your V8 engine didn't come with them. Beware, earlier or later fans and fan spacers or clutch fans vary in length and diameter.
16. Starter - match to transmission type
17. Exhaust manifolds (or headers), exhaust pipe, muffler(s) and tail pipe(s)+ hangers.
Note: If you live in a state which requires emissions testing, you will need to get the appropriate smog equipment in order to pass. YMMV check your state's rules for guidance. Caveate: In California, '73 and older vehicles are exempt from bi-annual smog check but the legislation SB42 did not allow for any tampering or removal of smog equipment.
TRANSMISSION
18. If autotrans, you can use the 6 cylinder's C4 (unless your V8 is modified for more power) but you must change the block plate and bell housing for one that will bolt to a V8. Note: Very early '65 260-289s used 5 bolt bell housings and the '65 and later engines were 6 bolt. You will also need the V8 flexplate and torque converter. Warning: After '81 all 302s used 50 oz imbalance on their flexplate/flywheel and the harmonic balancer is different from the pre ’81 harmonic balancer. Also, '70 and later C4s had larger input shafts so match the torque converter to the trans. Don't forget the trans cooling lines. One last thing, if you're changing to an C4, make sure it's one from a car that had a floor shift selector and not one on the column. The shift lever on the trans (and I think the internal rod) are different. Don’t forget the Auto trans torque converter access plate.
If manual you can use the I6 3 speed (same as V8 starting in '67) or better yet a 4 spd toploader. You will need the engine block plate, clutch bell housing, flywheel, clutch disk, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, dust boot, clutch fork to fulcrum retainer, and clutch fork. Or you could chose clutch cable conversion. See Vintage-Mustang.com (www.Vintage-Mustang.com) and search their forum regarding clutch cable conversion. See above auto trans info regarding 5 bolt vs 6 bolt engine blocks and correct flywheel imbalance.
19. Regardless of trans choice, you will need the appropriate front/rear U joints and possibly drive shaft. Note: '67/'68 I6 or V8 with AT used same U joints. Not sure if drive shaft is the same. Four bbl 289 V8 used different U joints than I6 or 2 bbl V8 Mustangs.
20. Speedo cable. Test fit cable from I6 to see if it will work with new trans (if applicable). If not, consult Friendly Neighborhood Mustang Parts Place for advice. Don't forget to get the correct speedo gear for the application. The gear fro an AT is different from one for a Manual trans.
21. Set of five lug rims (don't forget the spare - Doh!). Grab 4 extra lug nuts, too.
ANNOYING STUFF:
22. Engine gauge feed wiring harness
The following is a list of parts required for changing a ‘67-’68 Mustang from an I6 to a V8
Help for the '67/'68 owners!
The following is a list of parts required to convert an I6 '67-'68 Mustang to a V8. Unless otherwise noted, the parts listed are for V8 'Stang application. Fortunately for '67 and '68 owners, the I6 'Stangs shared more parts with the V8s than the '65-'66 Mustangs.
A Caveate: The '67s mechanically weren't exactly the same as the '68s (unlike the '65/'66s) so some parts won't interchange between the two year models. Another note, the '67 and '68s were the first to have the FE engines as an option. This page addresses the swap to a small block (289/302 only) V8. Certain parts will be different (and harder to find) if you are swapping to an FE engine. If you are installing an engine which originally was not offered in '67 or '68, you're on your own. *G*
COMMON PARTS BETWEEN THE I6 AND V8 '67/'68 MUSTANGS:
1. Spindle LH, RH. Drums or discs application didn't matter since all were the same (except for '68 the disc brake spindle is unique)
2. Three speed transmission.
3. All p/s suspension parts including Drag link (not sure about Pitman arm), inner and outer tie rods, tie rod adjusters, idler arm, idler arm bracket to fram, p/s hoses, p/s pump, control valve, and power ram.
4. Trans yoke should be the same.
5. Drag (center) link. '67/'68 I6 non-p/s same as V8 non-p/s and I6 p/s same as V8 p/s.
6. LH and RH inner and outer tie rods and tie rod adjusters are the same between I6 and V8 regardless of p/s or non-p/s.
7. Idler arm. '67/'68 I6 non-p/s same as V8 non-p/s and I6 p/s same as V8 p/s.
8. Kick down cable. '67 same; '68 unknown.
9. Clutch pedal to equalizer (Z-bar) push rod, Clutch pivot (engine and frame side), clutch pivot felt washers and *****, clutch return spring, and clutch rod from Z-bar to clutch fork are the same.
Parts Required to be changed for proper conversion:
FRONT SUSPENSION:
1. Pitman Arm - Necessity of replacement unknown at present. '67 was a transistion year in that some steering boxes had a 1" sector shaft while others had 1-1/8" shaft. I think there was no correlation whether or not the steering box had the continuous steering shaft or the rag joint. Pretty sure the I6 p/s Pitman arm is the same as the V8 version but not 100%. More research is in order.
I wouldn't recommend changing to the continuous steering shaft design if your "stang is equipped with the rag joint style unit.
2. Two front hub and brake assemblies including hoses. Stainless Steel Brake Corp offers original Kelsey-Hayes 4-piston front disc brake set up using the same spindles the V8 drum brakes use for the '67s and for the single piston caliper '68s, SSBC include the spindles in their disc brac conversion kit. '67 hubs are available new but status of '68 hubs is unknown.
3. Pair of front coil springs
REAR SUSPENSION:
4. Pair of leaf springs.
5. Rear differential assembly '67 or '68 'Stang 8" diff. or '77-'80 Lincoln Versailles/Merc Monarch/Ford Granada (LMF) bolts in. Axle to axle face distance on the V/M/G rear may be close enough to not matter with the '67/'68s.
6. Rear axle brake lines and hose that are attached to the rear differential assembly.
7. Emergency brake cable to rear brake drums: '67 I6 may be same as '67 V8 but '68 I6 different from '68 V8. Pick the part which matches the year of your Mustang.
8. Pair of 10"x 1-3/4" (coupe or fastback for sure not sure with Convertibles) rear drum brake assembly (your on your own if you have a 9", LMF have rear disc but parts are obsolete).
DRIVE TRAIN:
9. Engine (duh!) Don’t forget the ground wire that goes from the passenger side cylinder head to the firewall.
10. Radiator. If your V8 has a driver side output water pump you can bolt on a passenger side exit pump. Then you will have to hassle with getting all the accessory pulleys to line up. An alternative is get a radiator shop to mod your radiator to accept the driver side outlet water pump. If you get a donor motor, beware that some '65 and earlier 289s had a different timing cover to match the early style water pump.
11. Upper and lower radiator hose.
12. '66 - '72 smallblock V8 motor mounts LH, RH.
13. '66 - '70 V8 motor mount to frame bracket LH, RH (these are being reproduced and any friendly neighborhood Mustang parts place will have 'em. National Parts Depot has 'em fer sure).
14. You can reuse the alternator but you will need to get the correct alternator brackets to mount it (depending on other engine accessories). Most folks seem to get the engine fully dressed so already have the alternator, water pump, pulleys, and fan parts. Depending on whether you're installing a/c or p/s you will have to find appropriate pulleys that line up. Note all 289s and 302's made up to '69 had a three bolt crank pulley while 302s after '69 had 4 bolts.
15. '67/'68 Fan and fan spacer or clutch fan if your V8 engine didn't come with them. Beware, earlier or later fans and fan spacers or clutch fans vary in length and diameter.
16. Starter - match to transmission type
17. Exhaust manifolds (or headers), exhaust pipe, muffler(s) and tail pipe(s)+ hangers.
Note: If you live in a state which requires emissions testing, you will need to get the appropriate smog equipment in order to pass. YMMV check your state's rules for guidance. Caveate: In California, '73 and older vehicles are exempt from bi-annual smog check but the legislation SB42 did not allow for any tampering or removal of smog equipment.
TRANSMISSION
18. If autotrans, you can use the 6 cylinder's C4 (unless your V8 is modified for more power) but you must change the block plate and bell housing for one that will bolt to a V8. Note: Very early '65 260-289s used 5 bolt bell housings and the '65 and later engines were 6 bolt. You will also need the V8 flexplate and torque converter. Warning: After '81 all 302s used 50 oz imbalance on their flexplate/flywheel and the harmonic balancer is different from the pre ’81 harmonic balancer. Also, '70 and later C4s had larger input shafts so match the torque converter to the trans. Don't forget the trans cooling lines. One last thing, if you're changing to an C4, make sure it's one from a car that had a floor shift selector and not one on the column. The shift lever on the trans (and I think the internal rod) are different. Don’t forget the Auto trans torque converter access plate.
If manual you can use the I6 3 speed (same as V8 starting in '67) or better yet a 4 spd toploader. You will need the engine block plate, clutch bell housing, flywheel, clutch disk, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, dust boot, clutch fork to fulcrum retainer, and clutch fork. Or you could chose clutch cable conversion. See Vintage-Mustang.com (www.Vintage-Mustang.com) and search their forum regarding clutch cable conversion. See above auto trans info regarding 5 bolt vs 6 bolt engine blocks and correct flywheel imbalance.
19. Regardless of trans choice, you will need the appropriate front/rear U joints and possibly drive shaft. Note: '67/'68 I6 or V8 with AT used same U joints. Not sure if drive shaft is the same. Four bbl 289 V8 used different U joints than I6 or 2 bbl V8 Mustangs.
20. Speedo cable. Test fit cable from I6 to see if it will work with new trans (if applicable). If not, consult Friendly Neighborhood Mustang Parts Place for advice. Don't forget to get the correct speedo gear for the application. The gear fro an AT is different from one for a Manual trans.
21. Set of five lug rims (don't forget the spare - Doh!). Grab 4 extra lug nuts, too.
ANNOYING STUFF:
22. Engine gauge feed wiring harness
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