groho

OK, mustangmonthly just published a small article stating red camshaft assembly lube is for journals, bearings and roller cams, and (grey) moly lube is for hyd tappet lobes. I just installed a hyd tappet cam (XE268H) from comp cam that came with red assembly lube. So, which is it supposed to be? Red assembly lube, or grey moly lube for hyd flat tappet cams? The motor won't get installed and broken in for a couple weeks, so correcting the issue is not a problem, just allot of work.

Starfury

You have a flat tappet cam, so use a liberal amount of the supplied red lube for the cam lobes and bottoms of the lifters. Black/grey moly lube is for bearings, journals, and roller cam lobes.

67mustang302

They're both moly lube, just a slightly different type. Black is organic moly, and red is synthetic. The red stuff is generally higher quality and more expensive.

Starfury

Ah, didn't know that. But the red stuff is significantly tackier and doesn't slough off as easily as the black.

67mustang302

The red stuff is pretty gooey.

barnett468

oh my, lol.

ok my 3 cents.

the red stuff has high levels of ZDDP in it which is a good thing and more beneficial for the high pressure situations on the cam. the other lubes will also work but red goo is new tech. don't believe everything you read including this post, lol.

the latest greatest lobe lube is Z paste. I do not use it or any grease on the sides of the lifters, use assembly oil only.

http://www.kirbanperformance.com/pro...t+%237240.html


i do the following for break in on flat tappet cams, others do it differently. i have only had 1 cam go bad on a new build in 40 years and it was due to insufficient zddp in the oil. all oil mfg's reduced the level but did not state it on the bottle. comp cams inspected the cam.

Make sure that open pressure on springs is less than around 280 psi. high spring pressure during break in can kill a cam. If you have dual springs, removing the inner one is often enough.

You can also send your cam out to get it broken in. call cam research or similar if interested.

Use joe gibbs break in oil because there are apparently 2 types of zddp and this oil has both. one type lays down a "permanent" base while the other is the more sacrificial one. i broke in zillions of cams with just straight ol' Valvoline VR-1 though and never had a problem.

Jomar oil filter because it is a high flow filter and has no bypass valve and filters down to 20 microns or whatever.

Adjust lifters with them empty.

Prime engine for 30 seconds, rotate 180 degrees and prime for 10 seconds. Rotate and prime 3 more times.

With only number 1 plug wire connected, have someone crank engine while I use a lite to set initial to 10 deg btdc.

Reconnect plug wires,

Carb should be full by now.

No thermostatm this eliminates the possibility of there being an air pocket in the cooling system.

straight water because i know it will leak somewhere, always does, lol.

Place big fan blowing at radiator.

Have someone start it while I work the choke and throttle.

Set rpm to recommended spec and watch for water leaks.
.

racer_dave

I bought a huge tube of Comp cams lube years ago. Seriously, this thing was huge, would make an elephant turn green with envy.... It is red... use it for everything, race engines, mower engines, cams, lifters. Still using it. Never had an issue. The big thing is, don't use something thin like motor oil for assembly.

creaky

Redline assembly lube is as good as it gets.