Repainting Engine Bay
3rd Gear Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 622
From:
RE: Repainting Engine Bay
I am currently doing my 67's bay. This is my process:
1. Sand/wire wheel all paint, loose rust etc. (I usually start with 60 grit paper and coarse wire wheel to cut through paint. Go easy with wheel. Then go down to 150 paper and fine wheel to prep the clean metal)
2. Blow off with compressed air. Wipe down with laquer thinner or wax and grease remover.
#. Prep with Phosphorus Plus (available at HD in paint section) to remove any rust and leave clean metal coated with phosohate. (Excellent base treatment of bare metal. Paint adheres excellent. Also used in factory on hardware as a rust inhibitor i.e. phosphate and oil coated bolts)
3. Repeat wire wheel for any tuff rust. May take several applications of PH+.
4. repeat #2
5. Two coats Por-15, One coat Por-15 Self Etch Primer
6. Two coats Plasticote (or other good quality spray can) Sandable primer, Fill any pits with 3m Blue glazing putty or similar product
7. Wet sand till smooth...400 grit
8. repeat # two.
9. Spray any burn through from sanding with a little Self Etch Primer
10. Top Coat with satin black.
Some people swear by rustoleum satin black and have even used it to paint whole cars. (see Hotrodders.com for extensive discussions). There is a canadian guy who swears by rustoleum (sold in Canada under a diff name, but I personally called Rustoleum and they were even aware of the guy and had received many calls about using the paint in this fashion. He confirmed that the US equivalent is their Rustoleum "Stops Rust" brand.) Apparently very durable with proper prep. I have not decided on top coat yet. Probably go with Rustoleum. I still have time as I am not done with the prep process yet. However, I would think that if you are not using actual PPG two part paint or some other professional paint, a good high quality spray can (Plasticoat, Eastwood, Rustoleum) will hold up well. Any one will tell you that proper preparation is the most important part of having the top coat hold up.
Take your time and do the prep right and you won't have to worry about doing this again in a couple of years.
Good luck.
1. Sand/wire wheel all paint, loose rust etc. (I usually start with 60 grit paper and coarse wire wheel to cut through paint. Go easy with wheel. Then go down to 150 paper and fine wheel to prep the clean metal)
2. Blow off with compressed air. Wipe down with laquer thinner or wax and grease remover.
#. Prep with Phosphorus Plus (available at HD in paint section) to remove any rust and leave clean metal coated with phosohate. (Excellent base treatment of bare metal. Paint adheres excellent. Also used in factory on hardware as a rust inhibitor i.e. phosphate and oil coated bolts)
3. Repeat wire wheel for any tuff rust. May take several applications of PH+.
4. repeat #2
5. Two coats Por-15, One coat Por-15 Self Etch Primer
6. Two coats Plasticote (or other good quality spray can) Sandable primer, Fill any pits with 3m Blue glazing putty or similar product
7. Wet sand till smooth...400 grit
8. repeat # two.
9. Spray any burn through from sanding with a little Self Etch Primer
10. Top Coat with satin black.
Some people swear by rustoleum satin black and have even used it to paint whole cars. (see Hotrodders.com for extensive discussions). There is a canadian guy who swears by rustoleum (sold in Canada under a diff name, but I personally called Rustoleum and they were even aware of the guy and had received many calls about using the paint in this fashion. He confirmed that the US equivalent is their Rustoleum "Stops Rust" brand.) Apparently very durable with proper prep. I have not decided on top coat yet. Probably go with Rustoleum. I still have time as I am not done with the prep process yet. However, I would think that if you are not using actual PPG two part paint or some other professional paint, a good high quality spray can (Plasticoat, Eastwood, Rustoleum) will hold up well. Any one will tell you that proper preparation is the most important part of having the top coat hold up.
Take your time and do the prep right and you won't have to worry about doing this again in a couple of years.
Good luck.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
