so i got my sandblaster and it worked pretty good on a test run on my stang but i had a mix of extra fine sand and a steel grit abrasive now i have figured out im going to have to break down and blast it with just straight abrasive and does anyone know where i could order from that has the best value...

 

It sounds like you are a noob at blasting. If I were you I would use soda for blasting instead of sand. If not, then at least consider walnut shells or glass beads. The sand will warp the metal if you are not really good at it. Here is where you can get the supplies if you don't have a place in or near your town.
http://www.toolsusa.com/ProductSearch.asp?phrase=sandblasting%20media& cat=Sandblaster&WT.srch=1&s_kwcid=media%20 blasting|682379479

 

A suggestion is to do the jambs, suspension parts, and anywhere that is heavily rusted with the blaster. Just he parts that are tough to reach, are heavy guage steel, or are not an exterior body part. Sand the doors fenders hood etc with a DA or use a chem striper, you dont want to use a blaster for that unless its a soda system.

imagine if you shot the door with a shotgun, you are doing the same thing with many more particles traveling at high speeds over a confined area. its is VERY EASY to warp the metal and sorry but its cheaper to replace the part than fix it at that point. You only want aluminum oxide for the very stubborn rust and the suspension parts. The less abrasive media like walnut shells are good for door jambs and around door handles. You want to remove the handles, chrome, aluminum trim, and glass before you use a blaster on it, unless you dont mind it being pitted and the glass broken.

Sand is not something you want to use, I have been but also I am using a high quality respirator that gets cleaned often and enough safety equipment to keep me alive in a chemical warfare environment..lol. If you dont use a quality respirator (correctly I might add), you can get silicosis, that is where the silica builds up in your lungs from breathing the dust. That can lead to pneuomnia and other respritory illnesses that are quite life threatening. My younger brother was in an Army hospital in Iraq back in 03 from silicosis, he spent three weeks away from his unit trying to breathe again. Dont let the same thing happen to you while using sand in a blaster on your car.

I have made a sifter for my media, you can reuse it to a point, and you should wear a respirator while sifting as well, you dont want all the dust from your car in your lungs either. I used screen from a screendoor held between an 8" chimney pipe that necks down and slips into a 6" pipe. Its a little larger than 80grit, but it fits through all my blasters no problem. When the abrasive is worn down it doesnt work as well, and needs replaced. Most auto supply store will have something, and places like Eastwood have media as well. Soaring has a good place to get some from there too..

Safety is paramount, proper hood, respirator, gloves and protective gear are required. The burns you get from the media beating your skin into submission arent fun to deal with..

If you must do some on the flat surfaces, or doors, fenders, etc, hold the nozzle at an steep angle a distance away from the metal, you want to have it glance off and take paint with it. Never point it directly at it you want 45 or less and a large fan pattern, dont stay in one place too long. You only want to remove the paint, not move the metal. Rust work will require you to hold it a tad closer on the large items but still use a glancing angle rather than straight on.

Happy rust killing...

 

+1 on the respirator and ear plug and tape your pockets shut and the tops of your shoes etc will a much cleaner ordeal

 

im doing the job outside but i already have the respirator covered i talked to my body shop teacher from high school and he said a less abrasive blast media that you dont concentrate to much and let heat build up should work just fine if done carefully but i just ran sand thru to test the system ill def go for just walnut or other media when i get down to business...

 

baking soda is also nice cause u can just rinse it away

 

Do the jambs around the trunk, doors, under hood, and the fenderwells first, so you can get the hang of it before you tackle the fenders doors and especially the hood...

Trust me on this... ok? practice and figure it all out first, pressure, feed, angle, distance the whole works..